Help...new glow plugs...injection pump rebuilt still no good

Pajero · Post by **Pajero** » Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:31 pm

Ok so Just can back from Richmond where I got my injection pump completely rebuilt by CVI hoping to fix my cold start issues but as you will see in my video it has not.

http://youtu.be/Iybi-uev77s
In the video I cycled the glow plugs twice before starting and one more after the failed attempt to start oh and it sat overnight in -1c so not that cold.....

What I have done,
Replaced the glow plugs and added a light so I know when they are on
New batteries and battery cables
Had a "deli tune" done by CVI after I bought it a few years back
Replaced the fuel filter in the spring adding sea foam
replaced fuel lines going to the fuel filter

Any Ideas its driving me nuts

Thanks

Joe

thedjjack · Post by **thedjjack** » Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:57 pm

does it start if the block heater is plugged in (if you are in PG you should have a block heater)

If the glow plugs are working and injector system working it should just fire up...

I would start with a compression test or a leak down test...Diesels need compression to start...What motors is that 2.5 or 2.8? Valves been set if it a 2.5L it might have a few valves slightly open.

I use to have VW 1.6 in Williams Lake and it did not start if not plugged in due to low compression...long cranks slow starts.

Pajero · Post by **Pajero** » Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:19 pm

Its a 94 so it has a 2.8l 4M40, it used to start just fine at -15 even, I do have a block heater and it starts fine when plugged in. but I cant always plug it in everywhere and should start fine a -1 like it did before.....

dfnder · Post by **dfnder** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 12:36 am

I am not real familiar with Paj's or their engines but...

Is it a manual glow plug system (you said you cycled it twice and I was wondering), if so when was it installed. I find that I have to cycle my manual system longer than the standard GPCU that previously operated my glow plugs on my Delica. Also in cold weather I found it helps to add a little extra fuel than just the idle amount when starting.

thedjjack · Post by **thedjjack** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 12:37 am

1.6VW was the same starting (only had 100,000km on it)...plugged in fine...unplugged painful if cold.

I would do a compression or leak down test to see if it has a compression problem?

psilosin · Post by **psilosin** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:36 am

glow plug relay dead? If so your plugs are getting no power and giving no heat. That was my problem and it is a common one. I made a number of posts on the topic over the last year including how to rebuild the relay. Good luck.

Zeroduty · Post by **Zeroduty** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 8:14 am

Sounds like there is air in the fuel system, did you try to bleed the filter again. I changed out the return line from the pump to the filter a couple of days ago. The old one was cracked at the end and it ran like crap until it ran for a couple of minutes.
Vern

Pajero · Post by **Pajero** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:35 am

Its not a manual glow plug system I just turned the key off then on again. I know the glow plugs are getting power because when I replaced the bus bar I ran a seperate wire to each plug and a wire to a light on my dash so I know when they are on and when they go off.

I drove for 9hrs straight after having the injection pump done back to PG so I think the air should be out by now or could it need to be bled again??

Thanks for brainstorming with me

Joe

Rising Sun Auto Import · Mon Nov 19, 2012 12:04 pm

Pajero wrote:Ok so Just can back from Richmond where I got my injection pump completely rebuilt by CVI hoping to fix my cold start issues but as you will see in my video it has not.

http://youtu.be/Iybi-uev77s
In the video I cycled the glow plugs twice before starting and one more after the failed attempt to start oh and it sat overnight in -1c so not that cold.....

What I have done,
Replaced the glow plugs and added a light so I know when they are on
New batteries and battery cables
Had a "deli tune" done by CVI after I bought it a few years back
Replaced the fuel filter in the spring adding sea foam
replaced fuel lines going to the fuel filter

Any Ideas its driving me nuts

Thanks

Joe

I got to know what caused bad starting.

Steven

.:FoRuM56:. · Post by **.:FoRuM56:.** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:24 pm

Is it the audio, or does it really make that much of a racket?
I second a leak-down test.

James

GISdood · Post by **GISdood** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:07 pm

Hey Joe,

Hey neighbour!!

Its odd that you've had the injector pump reconditioned and its still not starting well. Before I had the faulty seal on my pump replaced, my starting issues were a little different than what your video shows. Even at -15 and colder, my '93 4M40 would start much easier than what you seem to be experiencing. Shortly afterwards (20-30 seconds) is when it would sputter and die, after which it would THEN become very difficult to start (thank goodness for two batteries).

The first thing I had done was get the injectors cleaned, which helped, but it still didn't remedy the cold start issue - the Paj would still die once after a cold start. Once it was warmed up, it wouldn't die again for the rest of the day, tho.

As temperatures dropped, I added an oilpan heater (before I found a block heater that would fit). This also helped alleviate some of the starting issues, but at -20 and below I would still experience the easy start then stall routine.

After more searching around online for cause/effect info, I had the IP rebuilt locally (http://www.dieselpro.ca/ ask for Lee), and its been smooth sailing ever since.

Granted, when its -5 or so out and if I forget to plug the Paj in, it runs rough for about 30 seconds but it ALWAYS starts without issue. As long as either the oilpan or block heater is plugged in, its smooth running right from the first turn of the key.

Good luck with the rest of your troubleshooting... hope you get it resolved soon!

Kelly

Firesong · Post by **Firesong** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:37 pm

How are the injectors?
FS

Post by **Big-Bird** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 8:45 pm

Have you done a resistance check on each glow plug and on the whole glow plug system?

NGK has a great 'how to page'.
http://www.ngk-dpower.com/en/technik/te ... ik-tipp-1/

I also found this interesting link on you-tube that tested 3 popular brands of glow plugs....so its true, not all plugs are created equal and despite the fact this test is done at room temp, well you be the judge. Whats in your 4M40 head??????
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FR8qyQ6bmVc

Post by **FalcoColumbarius** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:20 pm

Just to add to the confusion ~ have you checked how many amps the battery(ies) is/are putting out? In my experience the first thing the cold likes to crucify is/are the battery(ies). I just figure that checking the batteries first is cheaper in time and effort than doing a compression test or pulling the injectors out &c., although I wouldn't rule them out, I'd just start with the battery.

Falco.

thedjjack · Post by **thedjjack** » Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:39 pm

start with the basics.

Compression test..it will not start without compression it is a diesel.

Next check that the glow plugs are working (glow plugs are not created equal) worth testing even new plugs (they can be dropped in shipping). But, 2 good cylinders with good plugs and it should fire up (with the other cylinders coming online shortly). You can also put an AMP gauge inline to the glow plugs should pull 60-80 amps if all plugs are working.

Next fuel system (injectors check when you do the compression testing) air leaks, timing, etc.

My money is on compression (until test). How many KM on the motor?

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