left cv removal

[joshh]

First off do we have to remove the whole hub/knuckle completely? Second how do I get the spline to release from inside the diff?

We have upper ball joint, outer tie rod end, and the hub cover all off. Help appreciated, thanks!!

[403delica]

Just finished doing this a week ago to reseal the diff what I did was remove the knuckle completely then put a large worm gear clamp on the plunging inner joint so you had a place to pry out the axel... Mine was a little tough to remove but it is just a spring clip. Taking out the knuckle is easy and gives you lots of room

[403delica]

There is a brass washer on the outer end of the cv shaft that needs to go a particular way... It has a cut in it to sit flush

[joshh]

Got it. We were trying to shortcut initially by not wanting to undo the lower ball joint.

Lesson learned. Do it the long proper way, or it will take exponentially longer.

[403delica]

Yah it pretty painless to undo those ball joints

[joshh]

Well now I have more woes. After taking it for a test drive today I noticed some noise from the front diff. I decided to park and have a look underneath to see what it is. I'm leaking a thick brown oil from between the left cv and the front diff. Would this be becuase of anything from the CV replacement? or is it most likely a seal on the front diff?

[thedjjack]

sounds like you damaged the seal when you put the cv back in...brown thick (smells bad) sounds like gear oil

[403delica]

Yah inner cv seal... Just did this seal on mine because a shop in Calgary butcherd it. Coombs has seals in stock and you can use the axel to drive it in

[joshh]

Okay easy enough. I will order it tomorrow. So you replace the seal inside and gently use the axle to press it in the rest of the way?
Im getting sick of looking at these axles lately

[403delica]

You can or use a proper seal driver if you happen to have one... Talk to Coombs they use the old seal to start the new one it worked well but I also have a driver set