Engine rattle

Does your Mitsubishi L300 make a strange noise? Need wheel alignment specs?
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nxski
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Engine rattle

Post by nxski »

I don't know if that's the right way to describe it. Whenever I hear a diesel start, I hear a rattle/knocking which I've been told it because the components haven't expanded yet and have a bit of play. This seems to be normal and goes away when warm. Lately, it hasn't been going away once the engine is warm (it just gets a bit better). At first I thought it might be the water pump. Last time it leaked it made a similar sound, but that was more of a grinding than a rattle/knock and it was replaced less than a year ago. The sound is quite faint and I can only hear it with the stereo and the fans are off. Is this something I should be worried about? The van appears to be running perfectly other than this.
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by TardisDeli »

Sounds like you don't have enough oil sitting on the top of the engine, maybe get a thicker oil for summer so it will leave a coating residue overnight.
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by nxski »

TardisDeli wrote:Sounds like you don't have enough oil sitting on the top of the engine, maybe get a thicker oil for summer so it will leave a coating residue overnight.
Christine.
I'll check the oil level. I'm running 15W40 synthetic though so it shouldn't be problematic, I've run that every summer for the last 3 years. I do have a small oil leak, I'm wondering if maybe I should add some "Stop Leak!?"
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by Rattlenbang »

Engine noises in a diesel can be a real bugger because they are so noisy to begin with, and due to the extreme pressures operating on components something even a little off can make it sound different. I would be surprised if oil grade changed the sound that dramatically; in a gasser, if there's noise it's because of stuck/worn components or *lack* of oil pressure. But I found in the diesels I've worked on that wrong ignition timing can make it much louder, as well as pretty much anything that messes with the efficiency of the burn. I recognize that that's not much help, but maybe you'll have to start at first principles and go from there.
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by bionic »

nxski wrote:
TardisDeli wrote:Sounds like you don't have enough oil sitting on the top of the engine, maybe get a thicker oil for summer so it will leave a coating residue overnight.
Christine.
I'll check the oil level. I'm running 15W40 synthetic though so it shouldn't be problematic, I've run that every summer for the last 3 years. I do have a small oil leak, I'm wondering if maybe I should add some "Stop Leak!?"
I ran 15w40 amsoil for years thinking it was better in my diesels (vw 1.6 and a delica 2.5). 6 years later I only run 15w 45 motocraft in the barrel. No discernible difference in performance, less engine/ lifter noise, burn less oil, less seal weepage, And waaaaay cheaper. Regular oil/air filter changes are much better engine insurance that high prices synthetic engine oil. I had the same result for my diffs... Dropped amsoil for swepco red... Bar none, easily the best, (as expensive as synthetic, but worth it, petroleum based) no more rear pinion whine in the l300...
25 year old diesels are not new tdi's.
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by thedjjack »

bionic wrote: I ran 15w40 amsoil for years thinking it was better in my diesels (vw 1.6 and a delica 2.5). 6 years later I only run 15w 45 motocraft in the barrel. No discernible difference in performance, less engine/ lifter noise, burn less oil, less seal weepage, And waaaaay cheaper. Regular oil/air filter changes are much better engine insurance that high prices synthetic engine oil. I had the same result for my diffs... Dropped amsoil for swepco red... Bar none, easily the best, (as expensive as synthetic, but worth it, petroleum based) no more rear pinion whine in the l300...
25 year old diesels are not new tdi's.
X2 I have always run shell rotella (most important is always run the same brand)

Have you checked your valve adjustment lately....L300 are mechanical you have to set the valve clearance...

Also use a hose one end on ear one end on motor see if you can locate the noise...
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by jelbon »

Before getting too involved with the engine, eliminate everything else by loosening/removing the fan belts and starting the engine to see if the alternator etc, is the culprit.
The alternator lower anchor bolt is a recurring theme for rattles.
Also re-torque the front crankshaft bolt and ensure there's no play in the crankshaft pulley.
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by FalcoColumbarius »

Is it like a "tinny" sort of rattle? I'm thinking of something like a heat shield between the manifolds. Maybe they've vibrated loose over a period of time, which would make sense that they would stop rattling as the engine got warmer but not so much as time goes by and the bolt loosens further.

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Re: Engine rattle

Post by nxski »

It is a very faint rattle. I told Butch about the noise and he suggested I check the valve alignment, but after I pointed out that another Delica in the shop was making the same noise, he told me it was normal and not to worry. Apparently the technical term is "diesel clatter."
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by MardyDelica »

it depends on the mileage of your car.
usually L300 problem is the rocker arm bearing as time goes by. luck of lubrication when start up
if you change all of them better to take out the noise when cold.
common problem for L300 4d56 engine. then adjust the valve in the right spec.
used new one only to do one time job. used one not good
cheers;
mardy
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by nxski »

MardyDelica wrote:it depends on the mileage of your car.
usually L300 problem is the rocker arm bearing as time goes by. luck of lubrication when start up
if you change all of them better to take out the noise when cold.
common problem for L300 4d56 engine. then adjust the valve in the right spec.
used new one only to do one time job. used one not good
cheers;
mardy
Thanks for the info Mardy. Do you know how expensive that is to do?
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Have: 2011 Acura CSX manual, lightly modified
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by MardyDelica »

not really
better to change complete one intake and exhaust rocker arm complete
so you only do one job, check in uk site maybe u can get cheaper one
cheers
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by nxski »

MardyDelica wrote:not really
better to change complete one intake and exhaust rocker arm complete
so you only do one job, check in uk site maybe u can get cheaper one
cheers
Oh, so this isn't a job that you do then?
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by MardyDelica »

yes, we do this for long time many of this problem as JDM dealer 7 yrs until now
I even own and drive one of this L300 before 10 year ago.
that's why I know the weakness in and out of this vehicle thru my experience
we service and fix any L300 and L400 vehicle.
cheers
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Re: Engine rattle

Post by nxski »

MardyDelica wrote:yes, we do this for long time many of this problem as JDM dealer 7 yrs until now
I even own and drive one of this L300 before 10 year ago.
that's why I know the weakness in and out of this vehicle thru my experience
we service and fix any L300 and L400 vehicle.
cheers
I'm confused. If you do this all the time, wouldn't you know the price of the job?
Live the life you love, love the life you live...

Had: 1991 Mitsubishi Delica L300 SuperExceed, heavily modified (totalled by a drunk driver)
Have: 2011 Acura CSX manual, lightly modified
Want: Mitsubishi Pajero Evo

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