Deli Hell

[EricE]

I'm having a WTF time with my Deli . First my A/C compressor bearings began to get noisy so I remover the A/C belt as others have done on the threads to take it out of service , suddenly my alternator belts started to get really loose after a half hour of operation and my overdrive began cutting in and out erratically . I'm baffled as to how these are all connected. any thoughts

[Firesong]

Is there a chance you loosened the alt belt and didn't tighten it?
From what I gather on the aussie forum if the system has a faulty/dying alternator
all kinds of fluctuations will occur including overdrive. Something to do with the sensor and
the changes in voltage.
So in your case a loose belt can cause that. Tighten it up and see what happens.

FS

[Feds]

Check your crank pulley. Get under the van, take a screwdriver and try and pry your crank pulley forward. It shouldn't move. If it does, by this and install it:

http://www.amazon.com/CRANKSHAFT-PULLEY ... ank+pulley

The overdrive is probably the switch giving up the ghost. I re-routed mine to be on the dashboard (replacing the coin holder). It's easy to do, clean, and cheaper than replacing the whole shifter.

[CREGAN]

I am having the exact same problem with my Crank Shaft Pulley. I am going to have to get under it and play around this weekend but I am pretty sure a new one is in order. It appears to be fluttering while all the top pulleys are straight and tight. Does your van make a weird squeeking/rattling noise while sitting at idle?

Craig

[Feds]

Mine made the squeaky noise when it was broken.

To change it out, you're either going to have to remove the rad to get an impact gun on it, OR (the not-recommended-Feds-did-it-this-way-way): Put a long breaker bar on the bolt, wedge it against the ground (on the left-hand/your passenger sits here/the side your battery is on side), and bump the starter (making sure not to start the van).

[CREGAN]

Yeah, I am not sure about the ol' starter bump method as I already know how that would end for me. I tend to have the opposite of the "Midas Touch". That amazon link- can it be ordered from amazon.com and delivered to Canada? Not sure if it will let us do that. Any of you out there know about what the cost is from one of the usual vendors?

Craig

[Feds]

It's actually listed on Amazon.ca for the same money:

http://www.amazon.ca/Mitsubishi-Cranksh ... ank+pulley

[CREGAN]

Awesome! Thanks.

Craig

[EricE]

Thanks guys this may make some sense . I had a rattle noise at idle , assumed it to be the A/C pump but was on the road with not stethoscope . Noise went away when I removed the belt . Alternator belts were tight at the time never touched the adjustment.
Here's what I'm thinking after your input the problem is the crank pulley removing the A/C belt pulls on it to one side only reducing its rattle . Pulley movement loosens the alternator belts . And when the alternator is not at full out put the low voltage messes with the TPS and the overdrive shift points.
Will go have a look at the pulley
Many thanks

[Big-Bird]

I second the point on checking all belt tensions....with a strong suggestion that you get a charging system test performed.

FYI: PartsSource and Canadian Tire offer this service for free in the hopes they can sell you parts! But the test is free. It will tell you if your alternator is working properly and if your battery (batteries) are in good order.

About the crank pulley:
The Amazon page for this item shows shipping rates to Canada.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aag/details?ie ... g_shipping
The actual warehouse is located in Florida so you could ask if USPS can be used instead a courier like FedEx, EPS...US Postal Service does not charge brokerage/customs fees when stuff is shipped from the USA to Canada. This = lower prices!
If the item is shipped by courier (FedEx, UPS) there are numerous fees ontop of the delivery charge which usually doubles the actual purchase price.

AND if anyone if crazy enough to attempt the starter bump method to loosen the crank bolt then that person should pull all of the glow plugs first so the engine doesn't start. (no compression = no combustion).

A safety reminder: Pulling the power lead off the glow plug/bus-bar will not prevent engine starting as compression will still be generated.

(Q) Is there really enough clearance that the harmonic balancer can be pulled from the crank shaft with the radiator in place? I have never had to this repair hence my query.

[Feds]

I did the change a handful of weeks ago. I started with a home-made crank pulley brake and a big breaker bar. After 2 hours and a very bent home-made brake, desperation forced me to bump the starter. Being -15 at the time, I wasn't terribly worried about it starting.

To answer your question: there is lots of room to slide the pulley out. I have the thicker TigWeld-4-u rad, so my process was: Fan, shroud, bolt, pulley, re-assemble.

If you have the stock rad, you might be able to get the shroud off without pulling the fan.

[CREGAN]

Alright - Now I have been getting some idea of what a vendor price is compared to the Amazon price. Not at all meant to be a slag, but the prices I am getting quoted for a new crank pully is about 5 times more expensive for a brand new one. Are we sure that this amazon crank is the exact part number? If so I think I will have to order from them, because I just can't afford paying 5 times as much.

Craig

[Feds]

I can vouch for the fact that it fits, is visually the same as the OEM part, and looks to be decent quality. I have it on my van, and have had for the last 6 weeks.

Also:

http://www.delica.ca/forum/l400-parts-i ... 15281.html

[CREGAN]

Are there any other bits to be replaced when this is done? Like belts or seals. I have gone 85 000 on my current belts.

Craig

[Big-Bird]

Hey Fed's: Re: Tig Weld's rad: How much did that cost to ship across the pond? His stuff is nice and almost on par with OE stuff.

I am holding out until spring to get his Oil Catch Can.....I smell group buy for any Alberta takers. Gonna have to start another string.