A few L300 questions....

[philmeup1]

Supp folks,,

So I have a '93 Super Exceed, my first Delica.... And I love it. One of the downfalls with the L300 VS the L400 is the timing belt that needs to be changed. I've already done this on mine.

I'm just wondering, it's my understanding that the L300 model was in production right up till '97 correct? Were there many changes/upgrades between on like mine and a 97? Does the 97 share the same timing belt set up that needs to be changed after a certain amount of miles??

I learned everything about VW Busses after having owned so many. Now, it's like starting all over again.... Any knowledge is appreciated..

Cheers, Phil

[Tojo]

Hi Phil,

As coincidence would have it, I too have a 93 L300.

The most important improvements in my opinion are that the oil cooled turbo was switched to a water cooled one in late 1993, and the head and head gasket were superseded at some point to deal with the cracking head problem (not sure exactly when this happened though). I'm just about to install a Hyundai OEM full head assembly (you can guess where this part was purchased from) into my L300 which apparently was modified to deal with head cracking issue and is still in production today.

Tojo

[FalcoColumbarius]

I believe that Mitsubishi made the last Starwagon in '98. Not sure how different the models are, as of '94 they had water cooled turbos installed. One thing I'd like to point out, 'though ~ the 4M40 needs to get the timing chain replaced, as well. Not as often but when it happens it requires the removal of the front end of the Space Gear.

Falco.

[Erich]

I have been told that the body style changed in 2000, but the L 300 continued to be manufactured(though for export from Japan, not domestic) until 2006, early 2007. A check on Mitsubishi's website shows that approximately 14,000 were produced in 2006 for export only. Apparently, they could not meet frontal impact in Australia, scoring a low 1.

I have had mine for two months, so am just getting into the lore. Mine is a 1987. From all I've heard, they are fairly bomb proof. Yes, heads crack, belts need to be changed regularly(70,000K). Headlights on later models are dim, but there is a possibility that the same company in Taiwan that makes the dim ones, also make ones that will boost lighting(available from Germany). Early ones had better lighting. Change the oil every 5000k.

The motors have fewer issues than the Synchro motor, though you won't be going any faster. You will have more torque. The 4 WD is more conventional than the Synchro system.

Others on the website will have far more personal experience, so there is a wealth of good knowledge. I have had a number of different vehicles and find the Delica well laid out, with usual quirks. Belt tensioning is easy but requires some patience. Lower wishbones tend to get loose, as in the nuts need retightening. Most things are easy to access. Arguably a bit more comfy than the Vanagon in terms of options.

[philmeup1]

Wow, that's pretty good!! I've had mine for about a year and a half and didn't know most of this stuff you mentioned.... I guess I should do a little more research here... :)

My vans been so reliable, I've just been driving it and not really thinking too much about the mechanics and stuff. A nice change from the VW Busses:)

[konadog]

Timing belts are good for 100,000 kms. Did you mean miles? :)

[Lapprentis]

So, I just bought a 1990 Exceed StarWagon, still in Japan. Now, do I have to worried about those Engine Head Craking ? I tought these engine were bullet proof. Any suggestions as for higher grade replacement engine head part ? Any othe weakpoint for the year-model ?
Much Thanks
Lapprentis

[FalcoColumbarius]

... I tought these engine were bullet proof. ...

It really depends on the bullet you use. With .22 short you're probably good. 50Cal, not so much.

It really depends on how the wagon is looked after.

A lot of the wagons that came from Japan were really well looked after. When I first got mine, she had 61,000 kliks on her. However, you can't guarantee this with every wagon. Also, even if the wagon is in immaculate condition you have to consider the rubber, which has a life span. This will include tyres; seals; belts (including timing belts); bushings &c., that have to be replaced. If you have any doubt regarding the timing & balancing belts, as well as the oil seals ~ get it done. If there is oil on either of these two belts... they're toast, replace them.

If you get one with low kilometres ~ break her in properly or there could be issues down the road. One must also remember that you're driving a diesel that operates at a 21:1 compression ratio* ~ warm her up in the mornings or you'll put undue stress on a cold engine that has not expanded to it's operating temperate. This will create excessive wear on the moving parts if you don't.

Cycle the glow plugs every time before you start the engine, they're designed to do this. Your plugs and ECU* will last longer if you do and hopefully the previous owner did this as well.

My Starwagon came into being on the third of October, 1992 and came into my hands in January of 2008. Now it's February of 2014, she's at 175,800+ kilometres and the love is still there. Which reminds me, it's Valentine's Day ~ I ought to give her some spa treatment.

Falco.

* Gasoline cars typically run at an 8 or 10:1 ratio.
* ECU = Electronic Control Unit. It controls the glow plugs.

[Lapprentis]

Thanks Falco, will remember the warming and glow plug tips ! I also have foud the TO-DO in the Wiki Delica right here. So will change both engine belts for sure, oils, etc. From what I know, it is a very clean 1990 with about the same milage your had ! So, form your post I conclude I do not hare to worry about Engine Head Craking and such. Can you explain more about Cycling Glow Plugs ? Any post about how to start these Delica ? This will be my first ever Diesel....Much Thanks.
Lapprentis

[FalcoColumbarius]

... I also have foud the TO-DO in the Wiki Delica right here. ...

Just after I hit the submit button to launch my post I thought to myself about the To Do List and I'm glad you found it. It was posted by a very good friend of mine, whom incidentally originates from Abitabi, he is very creative and clever. The To Do List is a great guideline for you to discover your wagon and gives you an idea of what to look for and see if it needs replacing.

Regarding The Head: They can crack. They are made from aluminium and over time heat can affect the metal, which is why I mentioned properly breaking the engine in, warming them up, &c.. You kind of have to drive them systematically, if that makes any sense. You must remember that these are "Starwagons" and not Lamborghinis.

The Way The Glow Plugs/Ignition Works: You put the key into the ignition; turn to the first position and you get the radio &c.; turn to the second position and it activates the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), which is located in the "B" pillar (where you seat belt's shoulder strap is anchored); when you first turn to the second position you will hear a "click" come from just behind your right shoulder, roughly three seconds later you will hear a second click ~ your glow plugs have cycled, meaning that they have heated the engine's four cylinders. It's at this point that you turn the key to the third position ~ this cranks the engine over and the engine should start immediately. After the engine has started you may or may not hear additional clicks from the ECU: This is the ECU fine tuning the cylinder temperatures, depending on how cold it is outside and typically does this for maybe a minute.

Galvanic Reaction: Certain metals react to one and other and heat excels the reaction. Apart from sealing the action into the cylinders, the head gasket also separates the aluminium head from the cast iron block. Without this gasket the block would eat the head. I first discovered this when I put a mild steel blocking plate into my aluminium EGR* valve and driving out of a place called Kamloops I suddenly observed a major loss in power when climbing this long hill. When I opened the air intake system up to see what happened I discovered that I didn't need to undo the bolts, they just pulled out with the female threads still clinging to them, like springs. This, incidentally, is a very good reason to understand coolant. The best vehicle for displacing heat is water. The reason "anti-freeze" is added is not only to stop the water from freezing but also to inhibit galvanic corrosion, as the coolant travels through iron, aluminium, copper and brass. For this reason is why the manufacturer recommends using distilled water for the coolant. And not all coolants are the same: I am currently running Hepu G11 Coolant, it's used in the VW Jetta TDI which is similar to the 4D56T. However if I were to use G12 or G12+, which is designed for different engine configurations it would contaminate the system, resulting in all the plastic, metal and rubber components getting corroded. A lot of Delicas use Mopar coolant, which is cheaper ~ personally I think the Hepu G11 is better.

One point I'd like to clarify ~ is that I am not a mechanic. In fact I am a painter and like most members here, I have an "opinion", although some members here are actual mechanics. I have just taken an interest in my wagon and learned a little bit of information along the way. I would recommend that you not take my word as gospel, get a second opinion and do your own research. Same goes with Wikipedia. Just went to the Wikipedia page on Delicas and I see someone has edited it and included the Mitsubishi Express and classified it as a "Delica". Although it has an L300 body type, I thought the Express was a two wheel drive cargo van where the Delica is a passenger wagon. I have a Japanese friend (lives just outside of Tokyo) whom explained to me how the Japanese like to take English words and make them Japanese, much like the English do with other languages. According to him the name Delica more than likely comes from Delicate Carry, in reference to carrying passengers. I've heard this from other sources, as well.

Falco.

*Galvanic Corrosion
*EGR Valve = Exhaust Gas Recycling Valve.