Combination switch bypass rewire

[Blueberry]

Hi All.
Like others have experienced, my combi switch failed. In addition to the corrosion from arcing (thanks to Falco for the very detailed instructions) the little plastic doo-hickey has broken off. I'm currently waiting for the epoxy blob to harden so I can try to get back working but I think longterm a bypass switch is better. The contacts in my switch appear way worse than Falco's example, so I don't think they will hold up forever.
Can someone describe the wiring schematic please? I have no trouble wiring fog lites and such, but I'm a bit intimidated by all the wires involved here and I don't want to risk a fire. Need to get back on the road asap!

Thanks!
Graeme

[FalcoColumbarius]

Just had a minor meltdown which removed the copper coating off of one of the contacts on the little carriage thingy. I keep an eye out for bits and pieces, such as combo switches ~ even if they are shot because there are still good parts that one can cannibalize (like that little carriage) so I put it back together and budda bing ~ it didn't work.

It was the four corner marker/running lights that weren't going on. Turns out that my son is an electrician and taught me yet another use of my cheapo yellow plastic multi-meter. How to measure resistance. So we figured out which was the appropriate contact and took a reading from the little circuit board that it is mounted on and followed it to the ATO fuse box (down by the pedals). 70.4 Ohms ~ that appears to be working. So the next logical place to check was between the contact itself and where the wire connects on the backside of the circuit board, that is to say I had the multi-meter wires connecting on either side of the circuit board ~ nada. Not a sausage. So we very carefully drilled through the circuit board, from the solder that attaches the wire to the backside of the of the circuit board to the backside of the contact itself (without drilling through it) on the other side of the circuit board with a 1/16th" bit. Then we filled the hole with lead solder. She rides again.

Falco.

[Blueberry]

Falco, those contacts seem pretty small for the current that goes through them which is why I think a separate switch for Off - park - headlamp is a good idea. The high beam switch appears a little more durable.

I'm back on the road with a JB weld repair to the plastic doo-hickey that turns on the light, but I'm still a bit paranoid about the light-duty wiring in the headlamp circuit - my first Delica went up in smoke and I don't want to repeat that experience!

[Overlanderjay]

Tap into the headlight wiring at the bottom of the steering columm. Your after the green with the white stripe for the running lights,red with a yelloe stripe for the low beams ,red with a green stripe for high beams . The power supply wire is blue with red stripe . Good luck Jay

[Blueberry]

Thanks Jay. I will hunt down a suitable switch and tackle this soon!

Cheers