I would to know what is the pros and cons about lift kit. What do you experience with your lift kit. Is it hard on CV axle or other componant? Is it hard on the fuel millage.
Share your experience.
Pros and cons
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Re: Pros and cons
I went a slightly different route to arrive at more or less the same destination. I added an extra leaf in my rear suspension (also re-arched the existing leaves [see: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/thumbnails.php?album=66]) and re-indexed my torsion bars which essentially gave me a 1.5-2" lift. I like two inches, it's practical for a few reasons: 1/ you don't have to change out your shocks, they can handle two inches (at least on an L300), your stock tyres still look good if you're on a budget or happy with them, the drive train doesn't suffer; 2/ when one goes off the road ~ it's not just a matter of getting over things ~ it's also a matter of getting under things, as well, such as branches, outcrops, &c.. Another thing to remember about a lift is you're still limited by your axles. You could get bigger tyres but that is only going to gain you an inch, maybe two and at the expense of getting under things.
Ultimately, two inches is all you need in my humble opinion. Beyond that you need to start engineering and the only real benefit would be picking up shallow minded chicks, maybe... I don't think it's worth it, myself.
Falco.
Ultimately, two inches is all you need in my humble opinion. Beyond that you need to start engineering and the only real benefit would be picking up shallow minded chicks, maybe... I don't think it's worth it, myself.
Falco.
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Re: Pros and cons
Is it very difficult to re-index the torsion bar vs just cranking it up?
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Re: Pros and cons
Thank you Falcon, I heard that a 2" lift can cause issue with the suspension, steering, brake ect...
I can't answerd at this question Steve sorry.
I can't answerd at this question Steve sorry.
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Re: Pros and cons
Super easy to re-index, there's lots of threads on the subject as well.
For drivetrain stuff, depending on how many km your van has, it can affect some things. When something has spun at a certain location for 140,000km and suddenly moves to a new location, it can cause it to need replacing quickly. After I lifted mine I replaced all the ball joints, sway bar links and bushing, cv boots and one outer cv joint. But once that stuff it done it's good for another 100,000km until they wear out again.
For drivetrain stuff, depending on how many km your van has, it can affect some things. When something has spun at a certain location for 140,000km and suddenly moves to a new location, it can cause it to need replacing quickly. After I lifted mine I replaced all the ball joints, sway bar links and bushing, cv boots and one outer cv joint. But once that stuff it done it's good for another 100,000km until they wear out again.
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Re: Pros and cons
Okay, to be honest ~ it'd been six years or so since I did this so verify what I say because I may have forgotten something.
If memory serves me well ~ the suspension has to be hanging, which means either heavy duty jack stands (each one of my stands are rated for three and an half tonnes) or on an hoist. When cranking your torsion bars I believe it's a 17mm wrench and you turn the nuts on the thread to adjust the lift on the torsion bar. Well with re-indexing I peeled the boot back, marked mating points on the bar and the pocket for reference (white grease crayon works for this), pulled the bar out of the pocket and moved it ~ I think ~ two splines and re-inserted the bar? Then I did the mirror image to the other side. I seem to remember that it was a two hour job for me but I could be embellishing that ~ maybe it was three. Also, I can't remember if I needed to get the alignment done after that. I could take a look through my log books for a payment record, when I get around to it.
There's an article in L300 Dedicated Category Reference Forum on adjusting the torsion bars by Mystery Machine that's quite in depth and could be a good place to start.
Which brings me to a another point ~ don't forget that this was all done on an L300. I'm not sure what would be entailed with an L400.
It's not been an issue with me. Still have the same shocks from before; as far as the brakes go, they are attached to the axle, not the body ~ so it's just the hose length from the body to the calliper and with my wagon there's plenty. Steering hasn't been an issue. The platform between the L300 & L400 are quite different but the components are often the same. In fact, I check the early versions of the Space Gear in the shop manual for things like braking systems because they are the same as the L300, like the 4WD single piston callipers, drum brakes, &c..
Falco.
If memory serves me well ~ the suspension has to be hanging, which means either heavy duty jack stands (each one of my stands are rated for three and an half tonnes) or on an hoist. When cranking your torsion bars I believe it's a 17mm wrench and you turn the nuts on the thread to adjust the lift on the torsion bar. Well with re-indexing I peeled the boot back, marked mating points on the bar and the pocket for reference (white grease crayon works for this), pulled the bar out of the pocket and moved it ~ I think ~ two splines and re-inserted the bar? Then I did the mirror image to the other side. I seem to remember that it was a two hour job for me but I could be embellishing that ~ maybe it was three. Also, I can't remember if I needed to get the alignment done after that. I could take a look through my log books for a payment record, when I get around to it.
There's an article in L300 Dedicated Category Reference Forum on adjusting the torsion bars by Mystery Machine that's quite in depth and could be a good place to start.
Which brings me to a another point ~ don't forget that this was all done on an L300. I'm not sure what would be entailed with an L400.
P.Gaudreault wrote:Thank you Falcon, I heard that a 2" lift can cause issue with the suspension, steering, brake ect...
It's not been an issue with me. Still have the same shocks from before; as far as the brakes go, they are attached to the axle, not the body ~ so it's just the hose length from the body to the calliper and with my wagon there's plenty. Steering hasn't been an issue. The platform between the L300 & L400 are quite different but the components are often the same. In fact, I check the early versions of the Space Gear in the shop manual for things like braking systems because they are the same as the L300, like the 4WD single piston callipers, drum brakes, &c..
Falco.
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Seek Beauty...
Good Ship Miss Lil' Bitchi
...... Vision without action is a daydream. Action without vision is a nightmare. ~ Japanese Proverb
Seek Beauty...
...... Vision without action is a daydream. Action without vision is a nightmare. ~ Japanese Proverb
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Re: Pros and cons
The lift kit is great when you need it, 4X4ing, driving off road to crazy fishing lakes, going through nasty water bars, missing big rocks, climbing over logs. You get the idea...
If you don't do these things don't bother with a lift kit.
You may need:
new torsion bars
new rear coils
stronger/longer anti sway bars
numerous re alignments
gobs of time analyzing how to install these items
gobs of time trying them and learning how much money you just wasted.
new ball joints and tie rods
the list goes on and on
I'm happy with my 2" lift but it's a work in progress
Good luck
TLWF
If you don't do these things don't bother with a lift kit.
You may need:

new torsion bars
new rear coils
stronger/longer anti sway bars
numerous re alignments
gobs of time analyzing how to install these items
gobs of time trying them and learning how much money you just wasted.
new ball joints and tie rods
the list goes on and on
I'm happy with my 2" lift but it's a work in progress


Good luck
TLWF
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Re: Pros and cons
Found this video for re-indexing the torsion bar on an L400
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSjDIDCQvPA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSjDIDCQvPA