High Pitched swqueal

LMcD · Post by **LMcD** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:56 am

Good morning folks,
recently 93 L300 has started making a high pitched squeal at about 2000rpm - no matter whether driving or its parked. For the first while it would go away after the engine warmed up, but it seems to stay longer.
Some history; new head / timing belt / water pump and all the goodies that go along with it. I did this myself (lots of cursing involved) about a year ago, and it ran fine until about a month ago when the noise started. Its totally possible I made a mistake that is just catching up to me know.
I have checked all the belts and tightened up as required.
I do not have a EGT or boost gauge
Here is a link to a sound file...hopefully someone can tell what kind of heartaches I am in for.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rxs6oy8cbph3s ... e.m4a?dl=0

Much Thanks,
L.

Edit: The EGR is blanked off and the noise seems to be coming from the turbo / manifold(s) area.

Lapprentis · Post by **Lapprentis** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:02 am

Look like a normal (or almost normal) turbo noise....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEm66wqp5l8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5aY1sf-bqY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HbzB3RQ1O8

I am not an expert at all and not as mecnically oriented as you do but it seems turbo related tough your may not be a healty one: look for leaks, I had on mine and had air lost out of the exhaust manifold preventing the turbo to fully work. In summer time I like driving with my window down and ear the turbo noise

Lapprentis

Post by **Big-Bird** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 1:56 pm

Sure sounds like its the turbo and thats not normal. Remove the airifilter intake hose that feeds air into the turbo. you can feel the turbine/compressor with the intake system removed and engine cool/off. You will know by feel if the turbo's bearings are toast. Rough rotation, will not free spin easily, lots of lateral movement of the blades in the turbo housing are indicators of a turbo bearing damage. The turbo might not be moving a whole lot until the RPM's pick up beyond 2000 RPM. Do you have any loss of power, puffs of smoke at the exhaust?

Another area to check: iNo amount of belt tightening will make a bad bearing noise go-away...in fact it usually makes it worse due to the added belt tension. If it was my Delica I would check this stuff anyway:

Remove all of the belts and check each rotating pulley by hand and feel for stiff bearing in these items:

1) Alternator
2) Power Steering Pump
3) AC Compressor
4) Belt tensioner pulley (if equipped)
5) Water Pump (yeah even if you changed it last year)

With all belts removed you can also start the engine and run the RPM's up a tad for a short period so as not to overheat the engine and listen for the squeal. If the noise is gone with all the belts removed then you know you have located the main area of concern as a belt driven system.

The alterntor is also the vaccum pump (back side) but the engine will start as proven by the you-tube videos 'Lap' posted.

If the squeal is still there then the turbo is the source. You can get used or rebuilt turbos or purchase a rebuild kit and fix your own turbo yourself if you have the tools.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:30 pm

Before going to all the trouble of removing all the belts, you could try using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope*. Put the pointy end against the component you're interested in (water pump, turbo, whatever) and press the handle end to your ear. The component making the noise will be very easy to spot, as long as you don't get your beard caught in the fan belt. Don't ask.

That really does sound like a very unhappy turbo, where the compressor blades are scraping the housing. As BigBird says, take the rubber inlet hose off and wiggle the turbine. It shouldn't move more than a millimetre or so. If the blades *are* scraping the housing, you really want to fix it soon- engines don't like eating aluminium.

*or you could buy a mechanics stethoscope, if you want to be fancy.

Post by **Big-Bird** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 5:04 pm

Screwdriver to the ear...OMG thats OLD SKOOL Growler...and a bit dangerous with RPM's at 2000 to make the noise.

The stethoscope would be saferbut costs money too.

After hearing it again I am 99% sure the turbo is the source of his woes.

LMcD · Post by **LMcD** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 5:12 pm

Thanks for the info folks.
I will try what you guys suggested (although, taking off the belts will be my last resort) tomorrow.
Big-Bird - no puffs of smoke, just a little white when she starts.
Growlerbearnz - I'm sure the beard story is a good one, and I will try the stethoscope trick.

TieMyShoe · Post by **TieMyShoe** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 2:36 pm

Hop under the van and shine a flashlight up under the manifold, look for black soot where the manifold should be silver. The 3 bolt flange is horrible for leaking from what I have found, if there is black then the gasket has blown out and is the source of your sound. Once it starts leaking the gasket acts almost like the reid in a clarinet and causes that annoying squeal. The actual manifold gasket or EGR gasket can cause the same thing however they normally just sound like an exhaust leak.

I battled with this sound for a while, turned out my manifold to turbo flange was warped and the gaskets kept blowing out.

Cambullos · Post by **Cambullos** » Sat Jan 09, 2016 7:52 pm

Hi all,

I'm a newbie and looking for information on belt tensioning that you mention above. I have a similar squeak noise happening but I'm 99% sure it's belt/pulley related. Are there any how tos for making these adjustments showing how to access them?

I'm driving a '98 L300.

Any help is appreciated!!
Cheers,
Matt

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 1:37 pm

Falco made a good post in the Dedicated Category Reference forum here : http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=12962

One thing I would add is that if you're replacing your alternator belts, buy a pair from the same batch- if one is different to the other, one will wear out faster.

Cambullos · Post by **Cambullos** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 4:11 pm

Growlerbearnz wrote:Falco made a good post in the Dedicated Category Reference forum here : http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=12962

One thing I would add is that if you're replacing your alternator belts, buy a pair from the same batch- if one is different to the other, one will wear out faster.

Hi Growlerbearnz, thanks for the response. I was wondering how to get at the alternator adjustment screws!

I was digging into the issue a bit more this afternoon and found that when I turn the steering wheel, the squeal noise returns which points at the power steering belt/pulley.

It looks like I can get at the adjustment bolts from the passenger side through the access holes in the pulley but I can't move the pulley to align with the bolts. Would removing the belt help with this? It also looks like someone welded the A bolt to the frame, is that normal??

Thanks again :)

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Jan 11, 2016 3:31 pm

It's been a while since I adjusted the power steering belt, but I think I would turn the crankshaft until the access holes aligned. With the vehicle in Park you should be able to get a wrench on the crank pulley nut. Might need to remove the fan shroud pieces first though.

I guess if you were replacing the belt you could cut the old belt off, loosen the pump, fit the new belt and then align the holes before tightening the bolts...

sealica · Post by **sealica** » Wed May 31, 2017 7:21 am

I'm just wondering if there is anything complicated about replacing the power steering belt. This is mostly a diagnostic step to track down my "high pitched swqueal" although mine only occurs when turning right, and sounds like it's originating on the right-side ...

There is nothing except the P/S running off this belt? Unlike with the Alternator Belts (2)?

Also if I read the manual correctly, PS fluid is the same as the Transmission? Not in the same pipes, but the same fluid.

To clarify I did look at the manual: http://www.delica.ca/manuals/L-300%20Ma ... ring-1.pdf

But the part where it talks about the belt says to look for GROUP 11 and then there is nothing about the belts on 37-11

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Wed May 31, 2017 4:04 pm

Nothing particularly complicated. The power steering belt only powers the power steering pump, yes, and it uses ATF (though you won't lose any just changing the belt).

Remove driver's seat (four 12mm bolts), air filter cover, handbrake cable (10mm nuts) and wire, fuel filler cable (unclip from release handle), unclip wiring loom from engine cover and then remove engine cover (12mm bolts and one 10m bolt). Loosen power steering pump pivot bolt, turn engine to line up holes in pulley with tensioner bolt, loosen tensioner bolt.

Tensioning the new belt- put a large screwdriver between the pump and the engine block, lever outwards, and tighten the bolts. You want the belt to deflect 8-10mm in the middle when you press downwards as hard as you can with your thumb. Don't over-tension it, you'll stress the water pump bearings.

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