Better sway bar links?

Mitsubishi Delica L400 production commenced in 1994 -- After much anticipation, the L400 arrived on Canadian Soil in 2009!
P.Gaudreault
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by P.Gaudreault »

Do you think these heims joint are a good size for making link?
If I lift my Deli 2'' do I need 2'' longer link?

https://www.bearingscanada.com/4-Female ... 2-righ.htm
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Big-Bird
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by Big-Bird »

I have done lower control arm bushings by hand with a drift punch and mini sledge hammer.....took forever! Wish I had a hydraulic press as it would have taken no time to replace the bushings.

excessive play in one or more control arm bushing can play havoc with the Deli's stability in turns.

The rear pan hard bar (rear diff to frame link) plays an important part in reducing body roll so check these bushings as well. It keeps the body centered over the rear wheels during turns, lane changes and suspension flex.
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thelazygreenfox
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by thelazygreenfox »

PG- Check the aussie and UK sites for anyone thats used the Heims joints, not sure if anyone here has... Not sure how well the HJs would hold up in a muddy environment, the joints with grease nipples might be better??? :?

I'd buy the full heims joint as BB shows on page one before trying to fabricate one. It's the end links I'd find a problem to build but a good welder or machinist can do anything. Try it and post pics. :-)

BB- I'll look at the pan hard for wear too. Haven't looked at it yet.
Rising Sun says the upper control arm bushings aren't available separately, have to buy the full uppper control arm complete, $300 ea.??? :-(

How did you determine the CA or PH bushings to be faulty?? Can you see cracks or just replacing everything?

I carefully hacksawed from the inside, then punched out the old bushing. Easy!

Look up DIY press on You tube for press ideas. I used threaded rod and fittings/sockets each side but a hydraulic jack setup might be easier.
Clean up and lube the mating surfaces for an easier fit.

Watch the position of the bushings. Mitsu has a specific location for them, see the L400 drawings.
MD :-D :-D
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P.Gaudreault
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by P.Gaudreault »

Hummm!!! I see the difference now.. Do you have the link of the joint that you fund on summit racing??
Are they longer then the original??
thelazygreenfox
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by thelazygreenfox »

Wear your mask, it keeps others from seeing the parsley in your teeth
P.Gaudreault
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by P.Gaudreault »

Hahaha!! Same problem here, hard to find the right stuff without specs..
But CCAuto told me that He installe the same link then the original and it fits. But like every body say, it is fit, but worn faster and needs to be replace more frequently.. I want something that last longer then 6 months. :-(
thelazygreenfox
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by thelazygreenfox »

PG
lordco is the Heims rep here. They should be able to figure out the part number. Was that a HJ that CCA used? Sucks if they only lasted 6 mths. :-( :-(
MD
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stever1000
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by stever1000 »

Here is a video of my left sway bar link...

http://vid45.photobucket.com/albums/f71 ... 095507.mp4

Should it be this easy to move? I couldnt unbolt it and test it because the stud rotated as I tried to loosen the nut...
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by thelazygreenfox »

Remove the ASBL from the front and back sway bar and push/pull the ball socket joint. If it has a noticeable clunk inside replace all four links.
:M

The video is good, gave me a laugh this morning but the above applies still. You can't tell just by turning them that way. The center shaft needs be held with an allen key while the nut is turned off with a 17mm ratchet wrench.

If you do any work on your deli buy a 10, 12 and 17mm (offset) ratchet wrench. Without a doubt they are the most valuable toosl for your deli. :-D
MD
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stever1000
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Re: Better sway bar links?

Post by stever1000 »

thelazygreenfox wrote:
Remove the ASBL from the front and back sway bar and push/pull the ball socket joint. If it has a noticeable clunk inside replace all four links.
:M

The video is good, gave me a laugh this morning but the above applies still. You can't tell just by turning them that way. The center shaft needs be held with an allen key while the nut is turned off with a 17mm ratchet wrench.

If you do any work on your deli buy a 10, 12 and 17mm (offset) ratchet wrench. Without a doubt they are the most valuable toosl for your deli. :-D
MD
Thanks, I have made out okay without the offset rachet wrenches so far...but I believe you, they would make life a lot easier...

I didn't know about the allen key...that will make it a lot easier.

Glad you enjoyed the video :-D
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