You know, why not. I'll have to tidy this thread up anyway when I eventually shift it into the Technical reference library. Thread drift ahoy!
Before:
And after:
Totally different. Not. But a million percent more efficient and easier to keep tidy .
L300 Lokka install: work in progress.
Moderator: BCDelica
- Growlerbearnz
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Re: L300 Lokka install: work in progress.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
- Growlerbearnz
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Re: L300 Lokka install: work in progress.
Righto- workshop renovation complete, on with the Lokka install!
Previously I'd run into issues with the clearances- without a shim kit it was going to be irritating to get the clearances right. But now I have a shim kit... Part number MB185519. The shims in my kit are 0.80mm, 0.86, 0.90, 0.93, 1.00, 1.06, 1.10, 1.13, 1.16, 1.22, 1.27, 1.33. I'm going to have to use the two thinnest ones- I guess the kit is for bringing a worn differential back into spec.
Now, where were we...
Install the side gears and spacers with new shims, then the cross shaft. Check the clearance between the cross shaft and the spacer- it should be 0.006 - 0.020", and ideally even on each side. (Mine are 0.012"). Lokka say not to worry too much about these clearances, the important one is the inter-cam clearance which we measure later.
Now install the pins into the open slots in the cam gears, with the nipple on the pin downwards. The nipple will sit inside the spring when we get to those.
Install the cams into the diff cage. The upper one goes in first, then slide the second one in with the spacer inside.
Align the cams, then push the pins across into the opposing hole.
Wear safety glasses. Install the springs. Be glad you're wearing safety glasses as the last spring bounces off where your eyeball would be. Spend half an hour looking for the spring. Find it lodged in your beard. Install the last spring.
Push the cross shaft into place, and check the clearance between cams. It should be between 0.145 - 0.165". Nailed it.
Install the locking pin and peen the edge of the hole so it can't come out
Clean up the ring gear bolt holes and bolts (M10x1.25 tap), and install with thread locking compound (usually red).
Reinstall the differential into the housing, making sure you put the spacers and bearing caps back the way they came out.
I prefer to use a paper gasket and a small amount of sealant, but some people just use form-a-gasket. Those people are heathens and I'm totally judging them.
Reinstall and test the Lokka as detailed in the instructions. I had to turn the driveshaft manually to engage the auto hubs, but once they were locked it clicked gently like it should.
Previously I'd run into issues with the clearances- without a shim kit it was going to be irritating to get the clearances right. But now I have a shim kit... Part number MB185519. The shims in my kit are 0.80mm, 0.86, 0.90, 0.93, 1.00, 1.06, 1.10, 1.13, 1.16, 1.22, 1.27, 1.33. I'm going to have to use the two thinnest ones- I guess the kit is for bringing a worn differential back into spec.
Now, where were we...
Install the side gears and spacers with new shims, then the cross shaft. Check the clearance between the cross shaft and the spacer- it should be 0.006 - 0.020", and ideally even on each side. (Mine are 0.012"). Lokka say not to worry too much about these clearances, the important one is the inter-cam clearance which we measure later.
Now install the pins into the open slots in the cam gears, with the nipple on the pin downwards. The nipple will sit inside the spring when we get to those.
Install the cams into the diff cage. The upper one goes in first, then slide the second one in with the spacer inside.
Align the cams, then push the pins across into the opposing hole.
Wear safety glasses. Install the springs. Be glad you're wearing safety glasses as the last spring bounces off where your eyeball would be. Spend half an hour looking for the spring. Find it lodged in your beard. Install the last spring.
Push the cross shaft into place, and check the clearance between cams. It should be between 0.145 - 0.165". Nailed it.
Install the locking pin and peen the edge of the hole so it can't come out
Clean up the ring gear bolt holes and bolts (M10x1.25 tap), and install with thread locking compound (usually red).
Reinstall the differential into the housing, making sure you put the spacers and bearing caps back the way they came out.
I prefer to use a paper gasket and a small amount of sealant, but some people just use form-a-gasket. Those people are heathens and I'm totally judging them.
Reinstall and test the Lokka as detailed in the instructions. I had to turn the driveshaft manually to engage the auto hubs, but once they were locked it clicked gently like it should.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
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Re: L300 Lokka install: work in progress.
Congratulations! Well done.
MD


MD

Wear your mask, it keeps others from seeing the parsley in your teeth
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Re: L300 Lokka install: work in progress.
You really do great technical write ups...and garage cleanings/arranging! Have it gone out for a test drive?
Now gearing up for mine, except it blazing hot here in AZ, and I am rebuilding last years floating dock(I live on a river) with some large styrofoam blocks I found behind a dumpster. And sampling various beers to see which one modulates my work habits to the proper speed for this temp.
Now gearing up for mine, except it blazing hot here in AZ, and I am rebuilding last years floating dock(I live on a river) with some large styrofoam blocks I found behind a dumpster. And sampling various beers to see which one modulates my work habits to the proper speed for this temp.
- Growlerbearnz
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Re: L300 Lokka install: work in progress.
Oh yeah, test drive:
It works! No wheel spin at the front, even with one wheel on the air.
You're not going to use 4WD on tarmac. You shouldn't anyway (L300 Delicas have no centre differential, and transmission wind-up is a really quick way to destroy CV joints) but with a locking front differential wind-up happens much quicker, and feels far worse. On a slightly slippery surface though it's fine.
You can hear a light ticking when you go around corners, and you can feel the steering trying to spring back to centre a bit more than usual. Nothing terrible, about the same feeling as when you drive on a side slope. Yay for Delica power steering!
I found one situation where it could be unfortunate: If you accelerate stupidly hard while trying to turn on a fairly grippy surface, the front diff locks up (as it should) and the front starts to understeer quite dramatically. The steering also pulls to centre much more strongly- about the same feeling as when you try to drive over a kerb or large rock at an angle. But here's a hint for anyone 4WDing, diff locks or not: don't accelerate hard while trying to turn a corner. Are you *trying* to crash? Drive like a normal human being and you'll be fine.
All this is only in 4WD, of course. In 2WD there's no change at all. (It still drives like a bouncy castle.)
It works! No wheel spin at the front, even with one wheel on the air.
You're not going to use 4WD on tarmac. You shouldn't anyway (L300 Delicas have no centre differential, and transmission wind-up is a really quick way to destroy CV joints) but with a locking front differential wind-up happens much quicker, and feels far worse. On a slightly slippery surface though it's fine.
You can hear a light ticking when you go around corners, and you can feel the steering trying to spring back to centre a bit more than usual. Nothing terrible, about the same feeling as when you drive on a side slope. Yay for Delica power steering!
I found one situation where it could be unfortunate: If you accelerate stupidly hard while trying to turn on a fairly grippy surface, the front diff locks up (as it should) and the front starts to understeer quite dramatically. The steering also pulls to centre much more strongly- about the same feeling as when you try to drive over a kerb or large rock at an angle. But here's a hint for anyone 4WDing, diff locks or not: don't accelerate hard while trying to turn a corner. Are you *trying* to crash? Drive like a normal human being and you'll be fine.
All this is only in 4WD, of course. In 2WD there's no change at all. (It still drives like a bouncy castle.)
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.