Name that part

[sealica]

So I've opened up the driver's seat floorpan to replace this hose off the turbo which had developed a hole (and replace the rocker gasket and clean the area really well to pursue an oil leak diagnosis - but it's pretty obviously the half-moon seal) .. any thoughts on what may have caused the hole? looks like a burn, my mechanic said maybe a mouse chewing?

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I also noticed that this breather hose off the rocker cover was loose that attaches to the top of the turbo ... just wondering if there is any reason to leave this loose or if it simply must've fallen loose?

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I've also been wondering about this loose wire near the alternator - under the oil filter? what is it?

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and is this an acceptable condition of the manifold under the turbo? I'm assuming this has something to do with coolant judging from the rust!

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I got a few spots of coolant at the back of the engine right where the head meets the block and ... just trying to figure where it may have come from at the rear of the engine ...

[sealica]

I also have a loose wire at the back of the van just infront of the rear axle.

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Also a pic looking from the other side where the wire leads - near the rear U-joint I presume?

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[sealica]

and one final thing - could take some better pics but I got tools all over the floormat right now, but this white/blue wire comes from the back of the van along the outside edge of the driver's seat and leads to the area to the right of the accelerator (near fusebox) before being cut off and the previous owner has sealed the end with heat shrink ... any thoughts on what it may be?

[north54]

#2 and #3 on your list are the exact same concern I had. Check out the threads. Good luck


viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17843

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16685

[north54]

I also have a loose wire at the back of the van just infront of the rear axle.turbo-6.jpg

Also a pic looking from the other side where the wire leads - near the rear U-joint I presume?turbo-7.jpg

This is your 4wd sensor. A very common wire to come loose attributed to its loose placement under the van. I just reattached mine a few weeks ago with new connectors. There are many threads on the subject.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=900&hilit=4wd+light

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15213&hilit=4wd+light

[Growlerbearnz]

Top to bottom:

Intake hose hole looks like it has rubbed through. Look for a misaligned bolt or clamp that would be rubbing on that spot.

The vacuum pipe you’re holding controls the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (an emissions control thing). The cannister you’re about to plug the hose into is the EGR vacuum servo. It should be plugged in.

The red wire dangling below your oil filter is your oil pressure warning light. It’s a good idea to reconnect it. The rest of the wire should be in the loom that runs to the alternator. (The oil pressure light should illuminate when you turn the ignition on, before the engine starts).

Your exhaust manifold is perfectly normal. Repeated cooling and heating will cause surface rust, and there’s nothing you can do about it. The missing nut is a worry though- a loose manifold will damage the gasket, which is also your intake gasket. I’d check all the manifold flanges for more missing nuts. A loose *intake* manifold will allow oily pressurised air to blow all over the engine, which might explain some of the oil you’re finding. Replace the nuts with genuine Mitsubishi ones- they’re specially shaped to be self-locking even when repeatedly heated and cooled.

As North54 says, the red wires are your 4WD sensors (which turn on the 4WD and Low Range lights on the dashboard). The rest of those wires should be in the wiring loom that runs over the front fuel tank and onto the transmission.

The white/blue wire isn’t factory. I’d guess it was originally a power feed for some aftermarket accessory, maybe a reversing camera if it comes from the back?

[sealica]

Thanks for the IDs everyone!

. . .
The red wire dangling below your oil filter is your oil pressure warning light. It’s a good idea to reconnect it. The rest of the wire should be in the loom that runs to the alternator. (The oil pressure light should illuminate when you turn the ignition on, before the engine starts).

Your exhaust manifold is perfectly normal. Repeated cooling and heating will cause surface rust, and there’s nothing you can do about it. The missing nut is a worry though- a loose manifold will damage the gasket, which is also your intake gasket. I’d check all the manifold flanges for more missing nuts. A loose *intake* manifold will allow oily pressurised air to blow all over the engine, which might explain some of the oil you’re finding. Replace the nuts with genuine Mitsubishi ones- they’re specially shaped to be self-locking even when repeatedly heated and cooled
. . .

Inspected the loom going into the alternator - I don't think I'm going to find the wire without cutting the loom apart ... I tried loosening some tape, but can't spot a cut wire, just two pretty thick ones going right to the alternator. But I didn't dig too deep on account of everything being very brittle. The red wire is mega brittle so I'm figuring I'll need to get some more wire to redo the connection. It's like 18guage or something ... but I should probably just snap off a piece of the wire (bends like a cracker) and bring it. Looking at Amayama I notice a part called "MD138993 01 SWITCH,ENG OIL PRESSURE"

The exhaust manifold! It definitely looks like it *may* be leaking oil from the area surrounding the missing bolt. I got my valve cover gasket on and cleaned everything as much as possible, but I'm going to wait 24h to start the engine/allow sealant a full cure (also need to replace the driver's seat and do a final inspection to make sure I don't have any leftover assembly to complete). I found some nuts/washers for the manifold thru amayama, but shipping is pretty high for $3 in items - so trying to find some other things I need to round out a shipment :p

[Growlerbearnz]

just two pretty thick ones going right to the alternator.

There should be two fat white wires going to the alternator output bolt (under a red rubber cap) but also a couple of thinner wires going to a plastic plug that's also on the back of the alternator. The oil pressure wire follows the two (or three) thinner wires.

...also need to replace the driver's seat and do a final inspection to make sure I don't have any leftover assembly to complete)

Superstition says to start the engine before replacing the drivers seat panel. If you put the panel back in place you'll almost guarantee that something under the panel will be wrong and need tightening/installing

For the manifold nuts, try getting a price from http://oemmitsubishiparts.com/?DlId=100. I've ordered from them in the past, their shipping is pretty quick and fairly cheap (to California, at least). They seem to have a decent stock of common parts, and are friendly to deal with.

[sealica]

OK - well I put it back together, but did start is before and let it idle at 1000RPM for 10 minutes or so. Half-moon didn't cause a dribble after those 10 minutes although I may be low on oil - going to check once on level ground tomorrow. Real road test will be a better indicator ... I'm definitely suspicious of the manifold (I put a 12mm bolt and lock washer to just over 12 ft-lbs temporarily) and the other side of the engine, directly on the side of the block under the injection pump - there appears to be a steel plate which looks like trouble. Would this be feasible to replace just draining the oil, or is it a removal of cylinder head job?

My mechanic said worst case would be the "rear main seal," but I'm curious if you'd know what exactly this part would be called so I can check it out on diagrams ... ?

Only thing which seemed awry was a bolt on the timing belt nearly rattled loose, but I caught it and tightened it to 120 in-lbs which solved the problem - made the mistake of trying to do this on the lower timing belt cover bolt and I think I over tightened it as the bolt head is now deeper than the cover ... don't think I can really do much though ... just keep an eye on it for the next few days. I removed the top bolt from the timing cover as it just spins in it's threads and I feel the risk of a slightly loose timing cover is better than a stray bolt wreaking havoc - I could probably just use zap straps although it may be too high heat.

[sealica]

OK. I'm a n00b definitely, but I figured this out. I hadn't even set the bolt in the threads the torque wrench had set the bolt into the plastic timing cover. I put a plastic hard washer I had laying around to prevent the bolt from going through the cover again, but I should probably glue it to the timing cover to prevent anything coming loose, but it looks fine. Valve cover is holding tight with zero leaks =) getting the fan shroud back on which I removed to better access the lower timing cover bolt was an endeavor of contortion!

Oil leak:

oil is gather in several different spots
-bottom of flywheel
-oil hose at alternator (this was just replaced ... hose looks fine ... hose clamps need tightening?)
-oil drain plug
-underneath oil filter, maybe dripping from turbo and/or manifolds
-front corner of oil pan (looking from top of engine), passenger side above axle ...

Oil pressure sensor:

-I'm pretty sure the wire coming from the loom above the alternator is broken off so far that it's kind of asking for trouble to dismantle the functioning loom. I was wondering if it's possible to just bypass the loom and rewire the oil pressure sensor directly with new wire?

[Growlerbearnz]

there appears to be a steel plate which looks like trouble. Would this be feasible to replace just draining the oil, or is it a removal of cylinder head job?

That steel plate (the balance shaft cover) *is* trouble. It's fine for years, but the moment you remove it it'll leak. If you tighten the bolts holding it in place it'll leak. If you look at it with sin in your heart it'll leak. My solution was to buy a new cover and gasket (including the ones under the bolt heads) and install it- you *can* get to it without removing the injection pump, but it's a nightmare. You don't need to drain the oil. If this cover was leaking the oil would show up at the front passenger side corner of the oil pan...

My mechanic said worst case would be the "rear main seal,"

The rear main seal (rear crankshaft seal in Mitsubishi speak) is between the flywheel and the engine block. Replacing it requires removal of the transmission, but not disassembly of the engine. A rear main seal leak will show up as drops of oil coming out of the bottom of the transmission bellhousing- oil that clearly hasn't come from above. It's not a big deal though.

Alternator oil hose: It looks fairly new. It also looks like generic hose held on with worm drive clamps: I'll be impressed if the hose used is actually oil resistant rather than just heater hose (which will melt eventually). I'd be replacing it and the clamps with the proper Mitsubishi parts- the genuine hose is fairly soft and flexible, and the proper spring-type clamps do a much better job of sealing. The oil might also be coming from above and just making its way down. The turbo oil drain is known to leak, as is the turbo oil feed. Mirror on a stick time! It might also be a good idea to clean the engine thoroughly with degreaser first, so you can find the leaks' source rather than just where the oil ends up.

I'd still try and find the original oil pressure wire in that loom. Even if you replace the wire entirely you're going to have to connect it to the loom somewhere, it might as well be where it's supposed to be. If you were to run an entirely new wire, it would be connected to a plain yellow wire on the back of the instrument cluster. Watch out though, the fuel gauge wire is also yellow. Test first before cutting.

[sealica]

... You don't need to drain the oil. If this cover was leaking the oil would show up at the front passenger side corner of the oil pan...

Yeah I'm getting a bit of oil here it appears to accumulate on a joint of the lower timing cover (balance shaft area). Wiping clean it accumulates again. It could be the balance shaft itself, but since that belt and oil seals were replaced recently (twice in six months) it would be lovely if it was something else like that plate + gasket ...

A rear main seal leak will show up as drops of oil coming out of the bottom of the transmission bellhousing- oil that clearly hasn't come from above. It's not a big deal though.

It's not coming from above, but this area is covered in a thin film of oil. I clean the area - this film returns. There is old caked oil above, but no fresh stuff. I've cleaned the engine pretty good, but I haven't got all the nooks ...

Alternator oil hose: It looks fairly new. It also looks like generic hose held on with worm drive clamps: I'll be impressed if the hose used is actually oil resistant rather than just heater hose (which will melt eventually). I'd be replacing it and the clamps with the proper Mitsubishi parts- the genuine hose is fairly soft and flexible, and the proper spring-type clamps do a much better job of sealing. The oil might also be coming from above and just making its way down. The turbo oil drain is known to leak, as is the turbo oil feed. Mirror on a stick time! It might also be a good idea to clean the engine thoroughly with degreaser first, so you can find the leaks' source rather than just where the oil ends up ...

Right so this is a new hose replaced 22 December. It was only $5.39 as the mechanic used oil resistant bulk hose from a diesel truck supply rather than the OEM one. I asked about this as OEM was something like $30-50 at CCA from an invoice I was perusing ... I'm confident the hose is oil resistant, but perhaps the clamps are a good point. In any case we cleaned the area, tightened the clamps, and ran the motor for a while checking for leaks with UV. There is definitely oil coming from above dripping through the oil filter area (filter is tight and was replaced on 22 December also) and ends up on the pressure sensor.

There is also a slight weep at the join between vaccum pump and alternator so perhaps the O-ring is faulty. Alternator was replaced at the end of September, but perhaps the O-ring was reused ... The bolt with copper washers looks dry thus far.

[Growlerbearnz]

It kind of sounds like the oil is coming from above then. Since it's oil resistant (you've got a good mechanic there!) I'd leave the alternator drain hose alone and look elsewhere for leaks.