alignment specs

[terrain]

I'm waiting on manuals which could be a while. Can anyone give me the specs for the front wheel alignment????

thank you verry much

John

[ccautos]

Adjust the front torsion bars first to level the vehicle then set the alignment at +0.3 camber and +0.20 total toe . Adjust your pull in the caster angle . We can usually adjust and align these vans in 1.5hrs ($97.50) if you need it done .

[Mystery Machine]

The official Mitsubishi data is as follows:

Camber: 0º30’ ±45’
Castor: 3º±1º
Toe-in (at wheel rim): 0-3
Toe-in (per wheel): ±8’

From all my playing around with the suspension, I don't think there is any adjustment for the castor angle - I think this is fixed. (Except on my new lift blocks! )

Regards for now,

Bruce.

[Fanny Bay Delica]

John,

Glen (@ CC Auto) did mine to the specs he posted and it runs perfectly!!

[ccautos]

Caster is fully adjustable and is the easiest way to re-correct the `pull` from japan .

[Mystery Machine]

Caster is fully adjustable and is the easiest way to re-correct the `pull` from japan .

Hi CC,

Please, please, PLEEEEASE tell me how this is done?? :D

I'm probably missing something REALLY obvious and I have been lying awake most of the night 'disassembling' and 'reassembling' the front suspension in order to work out how to adjust castor!

I know how the camber is adjusted (usual adjustment on lower susp. arm mountings) and the tracking (track rod ends) but I cannot work out how the 'fore' and 'aft' movement of the castor is done!

The upper arms aren't adjustable, and I can't picture how the lower ones are beyond camber/track!

PLEASE put me out of my mysery! :lol:

Regards,

Bruce.

[argo]

I think it's shimmed

[robinimpey]

Bruce,

I'm sitting here looking at the my manual and I quote "The castor of the front wheels is fixed during the production and cannot be adjusted. The camber is adjusted by means of an eccentric adjusting cam on the lower suspension arms."

There you go.

[ccautos]

The camber is adjusted from the eccentric on the rear of the lower arm . By adjusting this it also alters the caster angle . It is a fine balancing act to get the camber/caster readings balanced to drive straight . Also by adjusting the front eccentrics (grind out the holes) you can achieve more adjustment of both camber/caster . This however is not required unless extreme wear or damage is evident in the suspension (ie kerbing) . The aligment cannot be completed correctly without raising the torsion bars and leveling the van . This adjustment also gives the front wheels a small amount of positive camber . I have had problems achieving correct settings on lifted vans and this can be corrected by shimming on the two top arm mounting bolts to give more positive camber .

[robinimpey]

Hey ccautos,

You're so smart! I hope it's okay, but I gave you number to the garage doing my alignment in case they ran into trouble. I'd get you guys to do it if you were a little closer to Calgary, mind you from the sounds of our forecast a little trip west wouldn't be a bad idea!

[GREENME@U]

The camber is adjusted from the eccentric on the rear of the lower arm . By adjusting this it also alters the caster angle . It is a fine balancing act to get the camber/caster readings balanced to drive straight . Also by adjusting the front eccentrics (grind out the holes) you can achieve more adjustment of both camber/caster . This however is not required unless extreme wear or damage is evident in the suspension (ie kerbing) . The aligment cannot be completed correctly without raising the torsion bars and leveling the van . This adjustment also gives the front wheels a small amount of positive camber . I have had problems achieving correct settings on lifted vans and this can be corrected by shimming on the two top arm mounting bolts to give more positive camber .

Well Well that gets pritty heavy duty there cc, i think i need an aligment on my van and my head maybe you can help me with just my van? lol it needs it!
thks

Marty