Diagnose my ride - FIXED

[Adam]

I did a little bit of rough 4x4ing on our new property and may have messed up my ride somehow. There is now a squeaking coming the engine bay that may be a pulley? The temperature has also started to spike when on moderate grade (4/5th to Hot) and the fan in front of the radiator does not seem to spin, but I've never checked to see when it should be spinning. The fan in the engine bay is still spinning.

Here's the video I shot trying to illustrate the squeaking sound, any ideas? You think it is safe to drive from Nanaimo up to Coombs for a check up?


I also lost a nut/bolt assembly and some rubber cushions from this rod up front. I replaced the bolt/nut, but I was going to wait until the CC Auto meet before I replace the rubber cushions. I doubt this is related to the squeaking problem which happens at idle as well as driving.

[mriguy]

you're missing a poly-urethane bushing underneath, cheap fix, 5 bucks plus labour, get both done at the same time, they notoriously crack, and you'll definitely hear clunking when you turn corners. don't know how safe it would be to drive without one.

up top, it sounds like something is rubbing, my old f150 used to do that, readjusting the fan belt was sufficient, but without actually ''getting under the hood" i can't help. maybe give glen a call in coombs, and have him check this post--best bet.

[Adam]

Thanks, I've already got a call into Glen THe batteries keep dying so I think I'll run this up to Costco and get a new one. Getting tired of borrowing the neighbour's jumper cables. Maybe I'll get a pair of those as well

[marsgal42]

THe batteries keep dying so I think I'll run this up to Costco and get a new one. Getting tired of borrowing the neighbour jumper cables.

You have a problem with belts: the water pump isn't working properly, nor is the alternator.

...laura

[Adam]

Well I made it to the end of the block after jumping it again before it stalled and the batteries died. I managed to coast back to my driveway in neutral, but things are not looking good for even driving it up to CC Autos.

So if the alternator is not working I pretty much can't drive it, can I? How can you tell the alternator and water pump aren't working?

[mriguy]

well, you're finding out now what happens when your alternator fails: your battery dies because it isn't being charged by the alternator when you drive.

sorry for your luck, do you mind me asking who did the compliance work for you?

[Green1]

check your belts, if they are all there, then check how loose they are, you should be able to tighten them relatively easily (the only tough one is the alternator one, it's adjustment bolt can be accessed through the driver's side wheel well)

hopefully it's as simple as that, if however the belts aren't loose, then likely something has seized, loosen the belts and figure out which part won't turn.

[TardisDeli]

The video idea is great for diagnosis.

Don't drive, it hurts me to listen to it, imagine how your loyal deli feels.

Belt problem, possibly seized water pump is my diagnosis. Stop driving it.

Do NOT drive with high temp, MardyDelica absolutely forbids it... mine was running hot, he took it for test drive but stopped drive immediately the temp went above halfway. Wouldn't even go round the block. So, I pass on that expert advice.

As to batteries, least of your problems at the moment. Deal with squeal. FYI My alternator suddenly died a few months ago, no warning, no noise, no symptoms, just the dash lights would glow bright then very dim every few seconds, apparently this is the classic symptom. As my battery very strong, I didnt have starting problems yet.

Glen at CCautos is who I would go to on the island, he was most helpful to us.

Cheers, Christine.

[Green1]

Do NOT drive with high temp, MardyDelica absolutely forbids it... mine was running hot, he took it for test drive but stopped drive immediately the temp went above halfway. Wouldn't even go round the block. So, I pass on that expert advice.

Having had a cracked head as a result of overheating, I can't stress this one enough... DO NOT DRIVE WITH HIGH TEMPERATURES!

best bet is to pop the hood and try to see what part isn't moving and replace it.

[Adam]

Thanks for the advice. After a few hours of fooling with it and several beers I've given up for the night. All the belts seem to be moving. I've had a seized AC compressor before so I know what that looks like. It is to the point know that I have to jump it every time I want to start it, so I'm thinking it might very well be the alternator. Anyway tomorrow is another day and there are still a few more beers to finish. Thanks again for all the help.

[loki]

Thanks for the advice. After a few hours of fooling with it and several beers I've gine up for the night. All the belt seem to be moving. I've had a seized AC compressor before so I know what that looks like. It is to the point know that I have to jump it every time I want to start it, so I'm thinking it might very well be the alternator. Anyway tomorrow is another day and there are still a few more beers to finish. Thanks again for all the help.

alternator could be seized or just working poorly with tons of drag making the belt slip.

[The Pinkfingers]

So if the alternator is not working I pretty much can't drive it, can I? How can you tell the alternator and water pump aren't working?

Actually, if it's just your alternator you can drive (no lights, so you can't drive at night). Japanoid David's son drove from waaay up north to Vancouver with no alternator working. He had to get a jump every morning, but then was able to drive. However, in your case it sounds like there's more than jsut the alternator giving problems.

[Adam]

Well the lights work, so maybe it is not the alternator? I'm thinking of driving it up to CC Auto with a support car for jumping when needed, if I can get it to drive to the end of the block without stalling.

Having had a cracked head as a result of overheating, I can't stress this one enough... DO NOT DRIVE WITH HIGH TEMPERATURES!

Not that I want to push it, but how high do the temps need to be before I have to worry about a cracked head?

Oh, here's another little tidbit that might help with the diagnosis, the glowpug indicator fades on/off when the engine is running:

[loki]

that isn't a glow plug light, that is a water in fuel light to the best of my knowledge. you may have water in your fuel.

Edit: I'm pretty sure delica's didn't get glowplug lights untill the '94 model year.

[Green1]

Not that I want to push it, but how high do the temps need to be before I have to worry about a cracked head?

here's the trouble... when mine cracked the temperature gauge went from the bottom to off the top in a matter of seconds... the issue arises from the reason for the problem, if the coolant isn't circulating your engine will overheat, however it also isn't moving the hot coolant past the sensor to let you know of a problem.

basically what I learned is simply don't chance it.

Well the lights work, so maybe it is not the alternator?

irrelevant really, the lights will happily work off your battery even if the alternator is dead, you just want as few things running as possible. instead of boosting, try putting an overnight charge on the battery, then drive with the lights off, radio off, heater fan off, basically anything that uses electricity off. leave what little you have for the fuel pump. (on the bright side, unlike our gasoline couterparts, diesels actually require very little electricity to keep them running)
But let me say this again, if overheating seems likely, DON'T DRIVE IT! the above advice is for a situation where the alternator is the only problem, if you have a problem with your cooling system to, DO NOT RISK IT! (from experience, a cracked head is roughly a $3000-4000 touch...)