Power loss, white smoke.

[Profister]

Hello All,
My Deli The Brick won't give up on developing new challenges for me. Here is something new I experience for a couple of weeks already.
Symptoms: pulling from a stop it has to think for a couple of seconds before accelerating, accelerates really slow with a cloud of white smoke (not steam) from the exhaust. It does not happen every time, maybe 2 of 10 times. The engine is always warm when it happens. Starting in the morning and during the day is easy and smokeless.
Please do not tell me I have to spend another pile of money on the IP rebuild!
But I will certainly appreciate all other suggestions!
Sergiy.

[jessef]

Did you have your IP rebuilt ? If so, where ? (normal rebuild or complete overhaul)

ECU/glow plugs are out because you get the symptoms once warmed up and driving around.

Sounds like air getting into your fuel system somewhere.

Air/Water in fuel will cause white smoke.

Stuck gov sleeve can hamper acceleration.

Lull at start/acceleration usually points to the IP.

[Profister]

Thanks Jesse. I did not mean I spent a pile of money on the IP rebuild already; I spent piles of money fixing everything else! I thought I was the lucky one not having IP problems but I guess I was wrong. By the time I fix all the issues (if that will ever happen) with this Brick it's cost will climb up to $20,XXX.
Unfortunately I have to agree with someone on this forum admitting that these fun vehicles are too expensive to own.
Sergiy.

[jessef]

They aren't cheap.

IP may just need an adjustment. I'd have Edwin at CVI take a peek.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Start with "simple cheap" before advancing to "expensive tricky".... smiles.

[jaggedfish]

Check your fuel lines before submitting to an I/P rebuild... I was told mine was likely an I/P problem whe I asked some people until it revealed itself as a leak in one of the lines on my rear tank.... a MUCH cheaper fix. The leak itself didn't show any physical signs until a couple weeks into diagnosis after I started smelling diesel then having hard starts when my tank got low. I discussed it on a thread I believe I called "Fuel Leak Discovery".

Am in the process of writing up how to remove and/or replace the rear tank. If you are semi-handy, you can do it yourself to save coin.

Diesels don't like air in the fuel lines and suffer MAJOR loss of power when this occurs.

Cheers!

[MardyDelica]

hi, sergiy,
pls used additive maybe your Ip is getting sticky or injector. no lubrication.
i got additive design for our weather here in canada, i have not even have problem since i am using this for 3yrs now.
even winter or summer. cannot buy this from lordco or napa. i specailty order this & works very good no problem on my delica i am driving.
try this before you go to diff. things to do on your delica.
hope this help if need one i have some in stock. 1 bottle is about $20 cheap & good.
Cheers;
Mardy

[Profister]

Thanks everybody for the input. I do not have a fuel leak, I do not have problems starting the engine and I use the fuel additive Mardy sold me. I also use Stanadyne Performance additive occasionally. The bus went through all kinds of diagnostics, repairs, replacements and maintenance earlier this year. The injectors have been serviced/replaced in August, the glow plugs have been replaced in September and I never had this problem until now. That is why I am afraid that this time I have to face an IP repair. I wonder what is next on Deli The Brick's list of surprises?

[jaggedfish]

Still... as I mentioned before... you may have a leak that you can't see... What I mean is there is enough room for the pump to draw air in (under vacuum load) but not enough room for fuel to leak out when the vehicle is not running (passive pressure)... yet. Eventually, the leak will worsen and allow fuel to drip from the area of concern.

When I had this problem recently, I could smell the diesel in the cab but couldn't see a problem anywhere - I looked time and time again, until one day a puddle appeared under the rear tank. What I was told prior to this was there could be a leak in the I/P but because the fuel was vapourizing, I couldn't see it. Not to say the person was wrong, as he was diagnosing it from what I was telling him... only not to jump to conclusions too soon and spend money needlessly. This happened over a period of weeks before it became obvious.

I wish you a lucky (and inexpensive) repair.

[visotzky]

I too was having slow starts of the line. When i changed my calipers it got way better. just a thought.Also there was post about running oil leak stuff true the fuel system to soften the seals.
Cheers
val

[Profister]

Thanks Jaggedfish, I totally understand your point. I drive my Deli The Brick on weekends only and can see that there is no leakage of any kind when it is parked on a flat, covered and dry surface. I am not going to throw money into an unnecessary repair; I will address the issue to one of the reputable mechanics as I did before. Oh, wait a minute, we have a camping trip in a few days which means I will have more brain power for a couple of days! Maybe we can figure it out together!
Thanks again everybody.
Sergiy.

[EnviroImports.com]

I have to agree with Mardy about the fuel Lubricant, those who dont use an additive will have leaks, and loss of power. also diesel is prone to bacteria growth and biocide should be used.
the ULSD label on your gas station pump is a DISCLAIMER telling you there is no more sulpher in the fuel. And the Delicas IP is designed to run on fuel the sulpher as a lubricant.
I sell the Raycor fuel lubricant for $15/bottle, if you dont want to use the lubricant, use biodiesel or wvo blended in with your pump fuel for the lubrication properties

[RaddCruisers]

It should be noted that although the use of an additive is a good idea, most diesel filling stations are selling "premium" diesel that has extra additives already added to the fuel. This fuel is usually labeled "Ultra diesel" or something similar. If you have a choice of which fuel to buy, and you go for the lower cost fuel, then by all means use an additive if that makes you happy. There are lots of good ones on the market: Racor, Kleen-Flo, Howes etc...

I do recommend the use of additives with rotary pumps as found in the Delica, especially if you are unsure about the grade of your fuel. Note that winter diesel is also somewhat drier (in terms of lubricity) than summer diesel.

I have been running diesel vehicles for over 20 years and have yet to have any problems with the fuel quality at any major filling station. I have never seen a algal bloom or the growth of organisms in commercially pumped diesel. This tends to occur in fuel that has been stored for long periods of time, and it is a really good idea to add a biocide to stored fuel. Having said that, I also keep my water separator and filter in good condition and drain/replace them regularly.

Leaks at the pump tend to show up on older pumps, and more commonly with rotary pumps (as found on the Delica). Changing the seals is not a tough job, but it is quite time consuming. Additives may help keep the seals conditioned longer than in the absence of an additive, but age is the major issue as the seals just break down over time.

This is just my opinion and experience, yours may differ....