Rear end seals

Does your Mitsubishi L300 make a strange noise? Need wheel alignment specs?
Post Reply
Meanman
Posts: 342
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:27 pm
Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
Vehicle: 1990 Exceed Crystal lite
Location: Maple Ridge

Rear end seals

Post by Meanman »

Can anyone list the part number or crossover part number for the rear pinion gear seal?
Noticed its starting to leak....gonna need to replace it.
YOUTH JUICE YOUTH JUICE RESTOR
The Goodness of 7 Pounds of Whole Berries+ 3 Sea Vegetables in Every Bottle
http://www.jhallen.youthjuice.com
User avatar
jessef
Posts: 6459
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Vehicle: JDM flavour of the month
Location: Vancouver
Location: Vancouver, BC

Re: Rear end seals

Post by jessef »

http://www.delica.ca/forum/rear-diff-seal-4626.html

1988 Mitsubishi Montero 4-cyl 4-door application

Local parts stores

Also, if you're not a mechanic and intend to do it yourself, read below or disregard.

:M :-)
jfarsang wrote:
Raule Duke wrote:also when i replace the lube in the limited slip, should i buy the mitsubishi product or does someone know of a good alternative from lordco??
Only put one of two things in there otherwise you may damage the diff :

1. Limited slip differential fluid

or

2. 80w90 gear oil w/ LSD additive




If you've never replaced a pinion seal, pulled/adjusted spyder/slip gears then don't do it yourself.



It's a straightforward job if you are a mechanic and have the proper tools (seal driver/torque wrench)

If you are not a mechanic and don't have the right tools, like John said, you can literally have your diff blow up if you do it wrong.




If you have never done it, have anyone who has done it to watch/help. If you do it yourself and disregard advice, then John's laid out the steps well.




For the Pajero specifically (same as the Montero diff's) here's the goods :

Removal :

Raise the Paj and support it safely on jackstands.

Matchmark and remove the driveshaft.

Check the turning torque of the pinion before proceeding. It should be 3.5-4.5 inch lbs. (0.4-0.5 Nm). This is the torque that must be reached during installation of the pinion nut.

Using a suitable pinion flange holding tool, remove the pinion nut and washer.

Remove the companion flange from the drive pinion.

Pry the pinion seal out of the differential carrier.

Install :

Clean and inspect the sealing surface of the housing.

Using a seal driver, drive the new seal into the housing until the flange on the seal is flush with the carrier.

With the seal installed, the pinion bearing preload must be set.

Tighten the pinion nut (a new self-locking pinion nut must be used) while holding the flange, until the turning torque is the same as before removal. The final pinion nut torque must be between 137-181 ft. lbs. (190-250 Nm).

Align the matchmarks and install the driveshaft.

Check the level of the differential lubricant when finished.

Here's the diagram you're asking for :

Image
Meanman
Posts: 342
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:27 pm
Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
Vehicle: 1990 Exceed Crystal lite
Location: Maple Ridge

Re: Rear end seals

Post by Meanman »

thanks for the part number/reference.

This is not my first dance......I've been a mechanic for 10 years.......military before that and have built/ rebuilt more engines, diffs and trannies that I care to remember long before I even considered mechanics as a proffession ( its what happens when you buy POS vehicles cause you are a broke ass M.F.)

LOL!!

Thanks for the input just the same....good to have the specs readily at hand.
YOUTH JUICE YOUTH JUICE RESTOR
The Goodness of 7 Pounds of Whole Berries+ 3 Sea Vegetables in Every Bottle
http://www.jhallen.youthjuice.com
Post Reply

Return to “L300 Technical”