Dry Wheel bearings

Does your Mitsubishi L300 make a strange noise? Need wheel alignment specs?
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BCDelica
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Dry Wheel bearings

Post by BCDelica »

Just want to alert everyone to the fact that our Delica's may need attention to the wheel bearings, they may not have seen new grease in over 15 years.

I have now changed front wheel bearings, and the rears in mine, in both of our Deli's. Last year, mine were dry with some burning and the other vans wheel bearings were dry this week. I did mine van ~60000k and Randi's has 120K plus - her front bearings looked good but since I had already purchased a set of bearings we installed them. Too things; wheel bearing greasing is within a backyard mechanics grasp and the Delica's bearings were the driest I've seen (part numbers are in the FAQ part list). I have done this with a dozen vehicles over the years plus my; travel trailer, utility trailer, boat trailer, etc. These van's may have sat for years and without use even thick grease runs like any liquid, just slower.

I hope your Delica's are fine, but if anybody has checked your feedback would be appreciated. Maybe it's just me and mine.

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Kev
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by snelson »

Wow - bumping a 2 year old thread....but have a couple quick question regarding wheel bearings.

I had mine repacked this time last year when I first got my Alberta Out of Province Inspection done. However, for the past 2-3 months I've noticed what I think is louder 'droaning' sound coming from the front, increases with wheel speed, not related to engine speed.

So I figure the sound could possibly be caused by one of the following:
Tires need balancing - had this done 2 weeks ago, still noisy up front
Rotors are warped - but I have no pulling to the side when breaking, no whump,whump,whump when stopping, and no wheel shimmy when braking.
Front/Rear differential Fluid - Changed both of these in the past 2 weeks, still noisy up front
Bearings are toast again??

In researching hubs I see for the front each side have 2 sets of bearings, outer and inner. I have a suspicion that the orignal repacking was only done for the outer on each side of the front - cause it was only about 100 bucks labour for the repacking - if they did inner too, I would have thought the cost would be higher.

My question - is it easy to replace the inner bearings (will do the outer of course too). Anything special tools needed to do the inner bearings? Looks like there's a seal to be replaced too. Done lots of searching and found great steps on doing the outer ones - seems pretty straight forward. I just want to be sure about doing the inners.

My other question - do you guys have any other suggestions on what might cause wheel speed related droaning sound? Think I'm on the right track with bearings? Just seems really loud and not silky smooth when driving....

Sorry for rambling guys,
Thanks for any tips or suggestions,
Steve
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by asorensen »

Funny this. I virtually just this morning installed new wheel bearings on my van!

As far as the inner wheel bearings are concerned they are exactly the same as the outer ones. It is definitely helpful to have a press when installing the bearings. The manual shows a specific tool for pushing in the races which I suspect you could probably get fairly cheap from Princess Auto. I have always had good success using sockets to push in bearings in this case you would have to have access to a 2" socket if memory serves (but it sometimes fails). The seal is fairly easy to instal in the same manner with a smaller socket requiring much less force. And you will need lots of grease I used 1/2 - 3/4 of a tube for the both sides after packing and filling the inner part of the hub between the bearings.

Wether or not this will fix you noise I can't say!

Just a thought is your noise on acceleration? If so have you checked the U joints? I replaced one of these this morning as well!
Good luck.

Andy
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by snelson »

Hey Andy - thanks for the quick reply. So couple questions:

Do you have a part number still for the bearings? I have this from the Wiki, but seems kinda short - "BR 50" and for the seal "Napa: CR/SKF 22822 (this is a fairly "cheap" seal) or Lordco: National 225875 "

As far as the need for a press, (which I don't have access to) could using the sockets while tapping them in with a rubber /plastic mallot do the trick? Or could I do damage that way?

I've never done this sort of bearing work before, seems pretty straight forward, I just don't want to:
Break anything
Install them improperly

I'll take a read through the manual too.

Thanks again
Steve
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by asorensen »

Steve,

I can confirm that it is a BR-50 bearing SKF was the manufacturer of the ones I got. I got mine from CC Autos along with the seals. I tend to prefer the push method of seating bearings. You might get away with using a large C-Clamp or a vice. If you are using the tapping method I would try to find the proper tool which will probably have aluminum contacting the race surface which will help to prevent damage to the race. I would look at the Front Axle section of the manual which I believe is available on the Wiki. I found this several years ago on the interweb and printed out a paper copy for myself.

Andy
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by Blackberry »

Also, put the race in the freezer and, if possible, heat the hub a little ... the shrinkage/expansion should make the race press in easier. As well, coating the outside of race and where it seats into hub with a film of grease will help. Same with the seal - put in freezer before pressing/tapping it in. So far I've always managed to replace bearings without special tools... as mentioned above, using vice, appropriate size socket (or metal tubing) etc. If you're ever replacing one-piece bearings (or whatever the proper name for them is - eg. ball-bearings or roller-bearings having inner+out race all as one unit) NEVER press/hammer on the inner-race. Doing so will damage the ball/roller and/or race surface - causing bearing to fail early. Good luck!
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by snelson »

Awesome stuff guys, thanks for the tips. I've ordered the parts from Partsource and picking them up Sunday and weather permitting, installing them Monday.

In my minds eye, I'm thinking about having the Deli up on stands, a piece of wood on the ground with the hub/rotor on top of the wood, then set the bearings in with the seal, then the jack on top of that, then slowly jacking up the jack pressing against the axle of the van. This should push/seat the bearing I'm thinking.... Anyway, just a thought. I just know I don't have a C clamp large/deep enough to span the rotor so....

Big thanks again guys, I'll let you now how it goes.

*EDIT*

Awww crap, from the manual it looks like I'll need at least a vise and workbench to split the hub/rotor to get the inners out - damn - I thought they just popped out of the back of the rotor. Looks like I'll have to get a shop to do the 'splittn and a pressin' for me. - at the very least I'll be changing my brake pads this weekend.
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by Blackberry »

snelson wrote: a piece of wood on the ground with the hub/rotor on top of the wood, then set the bearings in with the seal, then the jack on top of that, then slowly jacking up the jack pressing against the axle of the van. This should push/seat the bearing I'm thinking....
I'm not sure if you meant you planned to press in the bearing+seal in one go...but don't do that (it'll squish the seal). Press the bearing outer race in 1st, then press the seal in. If it helps you might want to use the old race to help press in the new one... particularly at the end when you're trying to get the race seated fully...though at that point tapping gently at various points around the race's edge carefully with, say, a cold-chisle with the end ground flat (or the punch you'll need to get it out - as per below) and a brass or wood mallet is as effective to get it seated. Make sure that where the race fits in the hub is well cleaned so it can sit fully in and square.
snelson wrote: Awww crap, from the manual it looks like I'll need at least a vise and workbench to split the hub/rotor to get the inners out - damn - I thought they just popped out of the back of the rotor. Looks like I'll have to get a shop to do the 'splittn and a pressin' for me. - at the very least I'll be changing my brake pads this weekend.
Looking at the manual (p. 26-15 of the L300 Front Axle manual) you shouldn't need to remove the rotor from the hub (but if you do so take the opportunity to put on new rotors!) You'll need a piece of steel of some sort or a long punch that is long enough to reach through the hub, and pointed enough to catch the edge of the race (like the tool MB990939 shown in the diagram on that page) ...in order to tap-out the old races.
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by Erebus »

Kirkham did my front bearings a year ago. Part numbers:
seal: SKF 22841, 1 needed each side, $50 each, available NAPA or bumper to bumper
bearing race: NAPA/SKF LM102910, 2 needed each side, $14 each, NAPA
bearing: NAPA/SKF LM102949, 2 needed each side, $30 each, NAPA

That's all I know. FWIW, I notice some numbers are different from what is posted earlier.
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Re: Dry Wheel bearings

Post by Modsqwad »

Paying real close attention to bearing free play or pre load is important to bearing life. In heavy trucks we used to set up with .005"
free play to account for the heat expansion of the loaded brg. The easiest way in the absence of any factory spec was always to
set it up at 0-0 ie no free play and no pre load. This will put the brg under a light pre load after heating up. If anyone happens to
know the factory specs I would appreciate if you could let me have them as I have to inspect/repack my front end bearings before
driving back to BC in early August. Thanks.
Andy Wilson
Sayulita Nayarit Mx.
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