Handbrake light comes on (and off) when going over bumps...

[shoosty]

Some good off roading and the daily commute over endless speed bumps has my handbrake light staying on most of the time now......everything seems normal at the handbrake base so I am assuming it is coming from near the brakes?? Has anybody had this issue? Is there a sensor somewhere that needs adjustment or replacement?

[MrDuncon]

Hi Shoosty!

I had the same problem one year ago. Check the level of the brake fluid, it is on the left side of the dashboard (on LHD vehicle).
The handbrake light is not only for handbrake on/off.

I hope i understand your problem correctly.

[loki]

it is on the right side of the dash on the RHD models, pretty sure the door has to be open to access it too. Just a reminder the "handbrake light" is actually a "Brake system warning light" so if you handbrake is fine and the light is on, so you should pay close attention as a failure here can be disastrous

[MrDuncon]

yee loki...
you have a better english i have to upgrade mine

[Luna-Sea]

In addition to advice given so far,check the
Handbrake light switch under the front third
Of the lever by jiggling the handle. They can finicky
And you need to make the switch button a touch
Longer. I used a pen lid that fit over it.

Right on!

[Kakah]

I had the same issue, which I thought was just an overly sensitive sensor... It was actually a bad wheel cylinder in the back.
Just one more thing to look it!

[helibrian]

The light is just coming on because your brake pads are getting smaller. This does not mean your brake pads need to be replaced wait till the light comes on all the time. Also don't add brake fluid because when you do put in new pads and push the calipers back you will have too much fluid.

[snelson]

X2 - I replaced my front pads then opened the front door to go for a test drive and had a nice 'puddle' of brake fluid on my driver side carpet! No biggie, just make sure you soak most of it up and get it off any painted areas as it'll eat your paint.
Steve

[shoosty]

Seemed to be that my brake fluid level was reaching the 'low' part on the fluid reservoir. Topped up and now the light is off for good. Any idea how the fluid dropped over the past year? Brakes seem to be working great and I replaced the hoses on the front calipers last year .....

[Luna-Sea]

Hey,
If you think you have a leak.....

Follow the lines from the master cylinder and loof for leaks,
the lines go down right from above the brake pedal.
The calipers are not too hard to check either.
If you can't find the leak and you seem to lose a
good amount of fluid over a short time I would
suspect the rear brake cylinder(s) which are hard
to spot a leak on without removing the drum.
A brake leak wont be all gushy like an oil leak,
usually (my experience) a wetness which is a bit
hard to as brake fuild is fairly translucent.
Take you time bring a flashlight and a rag
(white one that will show dampness after you
dab it on areas you are checking)

OR
Go pay a mechanic to check it out,what is the going hourly rate for a Norwegian GreaseMonkey?

Your brakes arent pulling to one side at all or anything
like that are they?

Good luck!

[Green1]

Seemed to be that my brake fluid level was reaching the 'low' part on the fluid reservoir. Topped up and now the light is off for good. Any idea how the fluid dropped over the past year? Brakes seem to be working great and I replaced the hoses on the front calipers last year .....

if it leaked out over the course of a year, you won't find it by tracing lines, your best bet is just to fill it every year or so when the light comes on, if you're loosing fluid quicker, you can search for it, but it sounds minor enough that I would just let it be.

[TardisDeli]

Older rubber brakes lines will leak at bit, they "weap" from the pinhole cracks as the rubber ages and dries out. I have it on my 1991, I just keep an eye on my fluid level which has barely changed in 6 months, so maybe your lines are worse.

To see your lines, easiest to just lie down under the front of the vehicle on a dry sunny day and use a lamp, see the rubber line going straight up from the inside of the front wheels where the disk brakes are. Don't wiggle the wires, now you know what the line looks like, just look at the lines and see where they go and see if you see any dampness on the outside of the line, looks like very faint condensation, hard to see. Note the connections are wire clips, ensure those arent loose are missing.

View all the lines along, you now think about replacing the lines yourself. Take a tape measure and calculate the length needed, and the number of clips, and see any places where it will be complicated, I am told it is easy to do. Some parts of the brake lines may be metal, I havent checked on mine, but it is the same procedure, look for rust and pinholes, and measure the length for replacement, they are very soft metal to curve by hand around parts, just bend VERY gently so no kinks are made. MUST ensure all air bled from system before you finish the job. Do read a repair manual first, as there are many things to know, such as holding calipers in place, and how to keep air out. Deli brakes are basic, an experienced backyard mechanic can do it.

Take a sample of your lines with you to order size if unsure. Use only new brake fluid, older fluid has absorbed moisture.

BEWARE brake fluid will melt car paint.

Christine.

[loki]

Older rubber brakes lines will leak at bit, they "weap" from the pinhole cracks as the rubber ages and dries out. I have it on my 1991, I just keep an eye on my fluid level which has barely changed in 6 months, so maybe your lines are worse.

To see your lines, easiest to just lie down under the front of the vehicle on a dry sunny day and use a lamp, see the rubber line going straight up from the inside of the front wheels where the disk brakes are. Don't wiggle the wires, now you know what the line looks like, just look at the lines and see where they go and see if you see any dampness on the outside of the line, looks like very faint condensation, hard to see. Note the connections are wire clips, ensure those arent loose are missing.

View all the lines along, you now think about replacing the lines yourself. Take a tape measure and calculate the length needed, and the number of clips, and see any places where it will be complicated, I am told it is easy to do. Some parts of the brake lines may be metal, I havent checked on mine, but it is the same procedure, look for rust and pinholes, and measure the length for replacement, they are very soft metal to curve by hand around parts, just bend VERY gently so no kinks are made. MUST ensure all air bled from system before you finish the job. Do read a repair manual first, as there are many things to know, such as holding calipers in place, and how to keep air out. Deli brakes are basic, an experienced backyard mechanic can do it.

Take a sample of your lines with you to order size if unsure. Use only new brake fluid, older fluid has absorbed moisture.

BEWARE brake fluid will melt car paint.

Christine.

if you rubber lines are to the point that they weep at all replace them, if fluid can get out there are weak points and you hopefully will not have to find that out when emergency braking which puts way more pressure on the lines than normal braking. I had one of my lines blow out and luckily it wasn't in an emergency situation and I was able to down shift and handbrake it to a safe stop.