Trying to find an old post: EGR Removal

[jwfchase]

There was a thread on here (with photos) from someone who got a blanking plate (from the UK, I think?) for the full EGR valve removal mod, I think there were details on installing the pyro probe there as well-- I've been using the search feature and searching from Google, but I can't seem to find it (probably just not using the "perfect" search terms...)

Does anyone know the thread I mean, and where it is?

Thanks
Jamie

[fexlboi]

Couldn't find it on delica.ca either, but this might help as well: http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37

[jwfchase]

That's the same post that's on our site, but that's just to fit in a blanking plate, I'm looking for the one to remove the valve altogether and put the probe in there.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Here are three I turned up using our local search engine:
http://www.delica.ca/forum/egr-backing- ... it-13.html
http://www.delica.ca/forum/closing-off- ... 93-15.html
http://www.delica.ca/forum/how-to-fit-a ... html#p2313

I don't know if there has been a discussion on the EGR removal and inserting a probe in it's place, but it sounds intriguing. Do the manuals not help at all? I would think that the "Intake & Exhaust" manual might help. On 15-12 there is an exploded view of the 4D5 exhaust manifold. At least it will give you an idea of what you're dealing with. I imagine the temperature and pressure of the exhaust manifold would be considerable.

Falco.

P.S.: There is some important information regarding electrolytic reactions in one of those threads that I think is worth the read. I miss MM, I wish he was still here. He is a wealth of information and has good wit, to boot. If you're reading this Bruce ~ we still think about you.
P.P.S.: I just read more and would also refer to Delicamark's observations. Not long ago I took my EGR out and cleaned it with gasoline and a small bristle paint brush. There was 17 years worth of gunk in it and when the EGR is clean it closes better. I understand that the EGR tends to do it's work as the engine is decelerating, not accelerating. So I can't really see how it would give you more power by blocking it off.

[fexlboi]

That's the same post that's on our site, but that's just to fit in a blanking plate, I'm looking for the one to remove the valve altogether and put the probe in there.

Removing the valve altogether is not different and beside drilling a hole in the plate and inserting a probe, I can not think of anything else you need to do.

[jwfchase]

Removing the valve altogether is not different and beside drilling a hole in the plate and inserting a probe, I can think of anything else you need to do.

No, but the main thing I want to take a look at was the picture and description of the plate itself, what the material used was, the thickness, if there were any gaskets, what secured it in place (the existing bolts, I think). I think the biggest difference was the thickness, because it was bolted on alone and not sandwiched between the old parts.

[fexlboi]

Removing the valve altogether is not different and beside drilling a hole in the plate and inserting a probe, I can think of anything else you need to do.

No, but the main thing I want to take a look at was the picture and description of the plate itself, what the material used was, the thickness, if there were any gaskets, what secured it in place (the existing bolts, I think). I think the biggest difference was the thickness, because it was bolted on alone and not sandwiched between the old parts.

It's basically like every other EGR blocker plate. http://images.google.ca/images?hl=en&cl ... q=&start=0
You can find even kits for Delicas on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EGR-Removal-Blank ... 335a4a924d

[FalcoColumbarius]

There is a paper thin gasket. There are four bolts, two obvious ones and two underneath the EGR ~ much like Mystery Machine's photo description of it. The plate they recommended was 3mm. Some were various steels some were tin.

To get to this stage you have to take the driver's seat out (four 12mm bolts); then take the plate underneath the driver's seat off (seven bolts & five screws? unhook the E brake cable and the fuel hatch release latch must be moved out of the way); then you need to take the hatch immediately behind the driver's seat off (wing nut). This hatch exposes the power steering reservoir and the air filter assembly.

From here I would have to look at it but to get at the EGR bolts you have to remove hoses and hardware. It's not really a big job but it took me and hour or so to do it. The first time I removed the plate (under the driver's seat) ~ the operation of getting it off took me half an hour, now it takes me five to ten minutes to take it off and get it back on. Daunting when you first look at it then old hat after the second time.

Having done this (cleaning the EGR out) I don't think I would be inclined to blank off the EGR. I really don't see how you could get more power by doing it. From what I gather from my researches, the EGR only recycles when you take your foot off the gas pedal. And consider this: When the engine was designed and built it had to be balanced; if you take one element out of the equation then the balance has changed. I think one has to look at the performance of the engine as a whole. Kind of like removing a string from a guitar in hopes that it will become a banjo.

A few of the posts in those three links I posted talk about their reasons for blanking the EGR and still getting smoke and not really increasing power. That's my take on it, anyway.

Falco.

[lrp374]

Hi Jamie:
Noel @ Enviro Imports advertised he was making blanking plates earlier this year. I'm not sure if he has any but it might be worth contacting him.
He ships by bus only takes a few days to get here.

http://www.enviroimports.com/

Larry

[delicat]

Take EGR off along with gasket. Use old gasket as template for blocking plate.
Make your EGR blocking plate of 1/4" aluminum or thicker, it will work fine but you'll need shorter bolts. You can re-use your original gasket if it's not trashed.

Next.
You'll need to remove the other end (down towards bottom of block). Try to save the gasket (keep it attached to block). Use the piece you just removed for template. Use 1/4" steel as blocking plate. I guess if you want to fit a pyro gauge now would be a good time to drill your probe access onto that piece. Reinstall and Bob's your uncle.

Cheers.