Bypass Oil Filters

[Drumster]

Do you know or can anyone tell me where the oil sending unit is on an L400?
(I may have to go with the single bypass because at least I can fit one in the available space. So far, I can't see a suitable mounting location for the dual unit, which is larger but is what I'd prefer to have.)

When you look in the PDF manual, it seems to be right next to the vacuum pump. (I don't have my deli yet to look!)

Hmm, vacuum pump? Do you know what page & what section? I think what I need is a picture. That way there's no uncertainty. But thank you for you reply.

[Drumster]

http://www.delicaclub.com/viewtopic.php ... roken+wire

The above post from the Aus site shows where the unit is (passenger side of engine below upper rad hose connection... roughly,) and helps explain a bit more. Apparently there's a wire on the unit which would be for sending info to oil pressure gauge on dash etc. but there's also a threaded piece which can be removed & replaced with a "T" for such things as by-pass oil filter installation.
I'll see if I can't take some clearer pics of my own a bit later in case any of you might be interested for future references.
Have fun with your beast!

[Firesong]

Just thought I would say to all the Saskatchewan Deli's that
I would offer my help if anyone wanted to mount a Frantz system
on their unit. It would probably save you a ton of time
since the placement hashing and how to fit your mitt into
a tiny space was already worked out :)

James
aka Firesong

[Jsq]

Thanks FS!
Definately like the idea of the bypass filter. Having to decide which mod to tackle first is the problem. I for one will take you up on your offer when the time comes.

Jason

[Drumster]

OK, I think I've ID'ed the oil sending unit. I believe it's the part in center with a black cap and a black wire leading straight up. This is where a "T" would be installed to feed a by-pass filter on L400 4M40.

Looking downward from front of engine with I/C removed. (Note rad shroud for ref.)

View from front left side.

Enlargement from #2.


(BTW, if you're wondering what the foreign metal thing in my rad hose is, it's a fuel pre-heater.)

[Drumster]

Your L300 oil cap looks to be pretty much or exactly the same as my L400's.


But I'm not sure... does (did) yours have the screw on top which appears to be holding the hole thing together? Can you explain how you drill through the centre without messing this up?
Cheers!

...
btw I had a look at the flow of oil out the cap while it was running.
It really pushes it through!. ...
Firesong

[Firesong]

Remove the screw and the metal cross brace inside will come apart.
Then redrill the hole larger starting in small increments so you don't
crack the plastic.

I recommend drilling from the inside vs the outside.
(outside being the surface which would be exposed when the
cap is on the motor screwed in)
Once the hole is large enough install the piece supplied with the
kit and follow it's instructions.
It's really easy, just drill in small increments.

That picture of the oil pressure sender looks the same pretty
much as the one I have on the L300. It unscrews and presto.

The lines I ran for the L300 were oil pressure sender, over the tranny
to the placement of the filter. (behind passenger front tire - see pics)
From the filter up alongside the motor on the left to the oil cap.

Firesong

[Mr. Flibble]

Do you know or can anyone tell me where the oil sending unit is on an L400?
(I may have to go with the single bypass because at least I can fit one in the available space. So far, I can't see a suitable mounting location for the dual unit, which is larger but is what I'd prefer to have.)

When you look in the PDF manual, it seems to be right next to the vacuum pump. (I don't have my deli yet to look!)

Hmm, vacuum pump? Do you know what page & what section? I think what I need is a picture. That way there's no uncertainty. But thank you for you reply.

Looks like you got the answer! But I found it on page 11A-17-1. A bit too late to help! :p

[Drumster]

Looks like you got the answer! But I found it on page 11A-17-1. A bit too late to help! :p

Cool. Which manual do you have? I've got the Russek one & it's next to useless IMHO.
Either way I'm learning a fair bit about these things along the way so it's all working out.
Cheers!

[Mr. Flibble]

Looks like you got the answer! But I found it on page 11A-17-1. A bit too late to help! :p

Cool. Which manual do you have? I've got the Russek one & it's next to useless IMHO.
Either way I'm learning a fair bit about these things along the way so it's all working out.
Cheers!

I got that from the 4M40.PDF download. I can't remember which club site I got the 4M40 PDF from though! It was useful enough that I printed it out though! It is about 3.2 MB and 130 pages.

[Mr. Flibble]

Update, here is the manual I was talking about:

http://www.delica.ca/forum/the-engine-7491.html

[Drumster]

Interesting comment on this topic at the Aus site from "Barra"...

http://delicaclub.com/viewtopic.php?p=234958#234958

If it is the type of filter that looks like a cotton toilet roll is housed in a canister I wouldnt be fitting one.

A few years ago I ran a trial on some large diesel generator sets ( 800hp diesels), We were trying to work out a way of extending the service interval. We set up one machine with the toilet roll type of bypass filter and left the other machine as standard.

We took oil samples and sent them away for analysis at the scheduled service interval of 400hours running ( both units were running 24 hours per day at identical loads)

The oil sample from the standard unit was a lot darker than the modified machine however the oil testing showed more engine wear. This remained constant at every service..more engine wear with the different bypass filter. At 4000 hours we reinstalled the standard bypass filters and the engine wear rates fell slightly and continued to do so.

That was our trial. , The oil looked cleaner and felt cleaner and the oil testing company suggested that the additional filter was taking not only the bad stuff out of the oil and effectively cleaning it but also some of the good stuff in the oil which reduced its ability to do its job..

If you are going to fit a bypass filter fit a mainstream one like a fleetguard or parker or something like that that is sold as and OEM product. You know it will do the job..
----

Actually we had a 50ltr diesel engine fitted with an auto top up and ran some special synthetic oil in it that we got from Castrol and all we ever did with that machine is change filters. The oil was never changed and I saw that unit in service for almost 30000hours..,,

memories...

[Firesong]

It's funny though. You can find several different results to the oil
analysis and such. May simply depend on if they were using the
all too fluffy and nice on the bottom variety vs the single play sandpaper-to
-the-butt type.

Im going to stick with it (hopefully it doesn't stick to me ;) )
change the filter monthly plus the quart of oil
and the at least bi yearly change of oil from summer weight
to my awesome 0w40 winter weight.

FS

[Drumster]

It's funny though. You can find several different results to the oil
analysis and such. May simply depend on if they were using the
all too fluffy and nice on the bottom variety vs the single play sandpaper-to
-the-butt type.

Im going to stick with it (hopefully it doesn't stick to me ;) )
change the filter monthly plus the quart of oil
and the at least bi yearly change of oil from summer weight
to my awesome 0w40 winter weight.

FS

Sounds like a good plan. If there were also some way for you to check on the condition & wear of the engine itself (as opposed to the condition of the oil), that would be nice too. Those comments by the Aus guy do make a guy wonder. Still, I expect I'll go with the Amsoil dual remote once I get all my ducks in a row. It's not a T/P set up such as yours but it's definitely going to remove more crud than the L400's standard hi-flow.
I would also expect that Amsoil's figured out enough about these things over the years that they wouldn't be building filters that remove their own additives. At least I sure hope so!

[Drumster]

Firesong. ps: this may be of particular interest to you... most notably the last paragraph.
http://www.poweruplubricants.com/produc ... lters.html
This co. also says oil doesn't actually wear out but that the additives do, with or without BP filters, so they recommend adding their additives periodically.
Cheers!
Tim