L300 Car Alarm / Remote Start Installation How-To

[RichD]

I bought a Crimestopper SP-500 Car Alarm recently, with 2-way remote, Remote Start & Turbo Timer.

I wanted specific features in my van:

• remote lock - the japanese idiot-locks are annoying; we want regular central locking we can carry in our pockets
• 2-way security - car alarm sirens are a nuisance. We wouldn't have an alarm unless we could run it silently with a remote. This was a must-have feature.
• Turbo timer - having this built in was another must-have for us.
• automated start from a themostat or timer trigger (add-on for this unit) - for winter camping
• remote start - totally nice to have feature, but a requirement for automated starting
• Bear-scare - a panic button that blows a pain generator siren to scare off bears while camping
• proximity sensor - still just a concept, but we're hoping that we can use a special RF-based proximity sensor to detect moving bodies near the van while we're car camping and trigger the warn-away feature from this. The objective is to be advised of a bear's presence before its up and blowing out windows looking for food. The manufacturer says it will work; we'll see.

The best supplier I found was Sonic Electronix. Big plus: they ship to Canada with brokerage included in the sale price.

Note: there are other brands that are great. We chose this one because of price and features we wanted. The brain units are going to be different but they all do pretty much the same thing. The installation is mainly about the various wiring challenges and these are common to all models. The specifics are about the L300 and that is what I'll focus on here.

My experience so far figuring out installation has been lots of reading manuals, watching videos online, disassembling portions of my van, calling qualified professionals, and bugging Jay. I'm near the end of the planning stage now, with a clear idea of how I'm going to go about installation, and this is a good time to start this thread.

A Word to the Wise
Installing a car alarm system is probably one of the most tedious mods you can do. It is not for the impatient, the electrically illiterate, and arguably some qualified help is A Good Idea.

I enjoy these types of technical projects because they give me a legitimate excuse to take things apart. But I spend a lot of afternoons in a contortionist's pose under the dash, removing panels, and tinkering only to figure out what I need to actually get started. Most people would not have the patience for the Research & Development portion and need to get their hands dirty from the get-go. So I'm going to use this thread as my notepad as I work out the installation and when I'm done it should be a complete guide for any L300 alarm installation.

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.
The way to go about the job is piecemeal - one leg of the circuit at a time. If you try to install the entire thing in one go without help, you will fail utterly. I have broken the installation up into sections which I will complete individually, each in a 1-2hr sitting. I'll note ways to test each leg of the circuit along the way, which should help later with troubleshooting too.

Chapters
Here's a rough draft of my upcoming posts (I may tweak this as I go):

1. Preparing the alarm for installation - parts, tools, and other specific bits you'll need for a Deli
2. Ignition Wiring - tapping into the steering column's wiring harness
3. Central Locks - adding a mechanical control to the driver's side door for central locking from one switch
4. Remote Start - wiring for glow plug and tach sensor
5. Basic Wiring - installing various switches, light, and antenna in the dash
6. Security Wiring - tamper sensors and siren installation
7. Putting it all together - no more messing about, lets plug this puppy in
8. Programming - tuning the system timing and making sure it works right
9. Add-ons - thermostat trigger, RF proximity sensor, other fun stuff

[Artacoma]

Cool
When I had my remote lock system installed (Ralph's in Victoria ) they tried to convince me that it is costly and unusual to be able use the remote for the rear tailgate as well. I should have shopped around more but I was impatient and I'm past my warranty period now.
I'm interested to see if you can do it and where you tap into the van's system so maybe I can trouble shoot mine.
I'm now allowed to take things apart as long as I can say so and so did it without blowing up. So thanks in advance.

(by the way I'm still waiting on switching and stuff I ordred from W Marine for my inverter project I'll post in that thread when I get it together)

[RichD]

Cool
When I had my remote lock system installed (Ralph's in Victoria ) they tried to convince me that it is costly and unusual to be able use the remote for the rear tailgate as well. I should have shopped around more but I was impatient and I'm past my warranty period now.
I'm interested to see if you can do it and where you tap into the van's system so maybe I can trouble shoot mine.
I'm now allowed to take things apart as long as I can say so and so did it without blowing up. So thanks in advance.

(by the way I'm still waiting on switching and stuff I ordred from W Marine for my inverter project I'll post in that thread when I get it together)

Do you mean unlock the hatch with the trunk button? Or with the 'all locks' code (double tap unlock)? Or do you mean literally open the hatch with the trunk button?

The latter is beyond me as you need a strong actuator to pull the lever inside and a motor to raise the hatch.

I intend to wire the hatch unlock solenoid to the trunk button on remote.

[FalcoColumbarius]

The tailgate is on a different switch to start with ~ I think that is why it is such a b*tch to set up. I would think you would want it on a different switch on your remote, anyway. For me... if I'm getting something out of the van then I would want to disarm the van... so ..... How much further to walk to the driver's console to push the switch, or use your key in the tailgate ~ help keep the rust in the lock down.

Falco.

[Artacoma]

I mean just to remotely unlock the rear hatch,
I'm often pulling tools or materials out downtown and clicking to disarm and then still having to fumble the right key out of 8 to unlock is annoying with your arms full.(something about the uses of arm in that sentence hurts my brain )
I can click without taking the fob out of my pocket.
The fob has an extra button but I haven't been able to find the instructions the installers get and my installer has been negative help.

[RichD]

I mean just to remotely unlock the rear hatch [...] The fob has an extra button but I haven't been able to find the instructions the installers get and my installer has been negative help.

That is easy and will be covered by my guide.

There is a pin (aka as a wire) for triggering the trunk. Point it at the solenoid for the rear hatch, which is accessible from the dash harness.

Finding the pin involves contacting the manufacturer (website) and applying some RTFM (read the ..... manual).

[FalcoColumbarius]

...applying some RTFM (read the ..... manual).

I got some o' them...

[Growlerbearnz]

I've recently finished installing an alarm with similar features (minus the proximity sensing- no bears in New Zealand!) on my P25W. Prior to the big wiring mission I had installed a solenoid on the driver's door to control the stock central locking, and the siren behind the front bumper.

I found it easiest to remove the dashboard. It comes off with a few screws, and the wiring harness unplugs easily below the heater controls. Most of my wiring connections went into the harness on the body side of the dashboard connectors, the exceptions being the door open sensor and indicator flash connections, which I connected at the instrument cluster.

I have a couple of relays in series controlling the rear door, wired into the existing dashboard switch. The lock relay is triggered by the 'lock' pulse from the alarm, and so the tailgate locks at the same time as the other doors. The unlock relay is triggered by the trunk release pulse from the alarm, so the tailgate only unlocks from the remote or from the dashboard switch.

The install took about 6 hours from planning to completion, mainly due to the wiring diagram being a bit hard to read (you know the one I mean, eh) and the wire colours in my van not quite matching up at times.

Next up- auto window closer for the front windows and sunroof.

[Quagmire34]

Any update here? Ive recently purchased a UNIDEN VS2600XR car alarm and was about to embark on the installation process. I found this thread and thought i had found gold as i have only a basic level of understanding of what i am trying to achieve.

I've hit a bit of a road block as ive realised i may as well install central locking on the front two doors first. The kit is coming this weekend. A few questions here:

Central locking
Where is the best part of the front doors to drill holes in, and feed the wires through? it looks pretty tight in there and difficult to get a drill in there without taking the door off.

Car alarm
When installing the alarm do i cut the wires which lead to the fuses. i.e. cut the two wires which lead into the door lock, ignition fuse which are found just behind the fuse box and then wire these up to the alarm?

Is it safe to assume that the wiring docs i found here under the technical forum will be the same for a 2000 2.5TD L300?

Thanks in advance

[RichD]

Any update here? Ive recently purchased a UNIDEN VS2600XR car alarm and was about to embark on the installation process.

Very timely reply...

The Delica has just come off of its summer road trip duty, and its time to give her an overhaul. There are a number of repairs (including Whipsaw dents!) to do and this project is near the top of my list as the panel work and carpet will be out of the way!

I just rented a two car garage with an 8' roof specifically for wrenching and will be embarking on the alarm/remote start/auto-heater installation in the next few weeks...

I've hit a bit of a road block as ive realised i may as well install central locking on the front two doors first. The kit is coming this weekend. A few questions here:

Central locking
Where is the best part of the front doors to drill holes in, and feed the wires through? it looks pretty tight in there and difficult to get a drill in there without taking the door off.

My intention was to use the existing wire path as it is intended to be waterproof and needs attention anyway. There shouldn't be much new wire to add...

Car alarm
When installing the alarm do i cut the wires which lead to the fuses. i.e. cut the two wires which lead into the door lock, ignition fuse which are found just behind the fuse box and then wire these up to the alarm?

You shouldn't be bypassing fuses you should be patching in upstream from the fuses. I would expect that I'll be splicing into the circuits not breaking them.[/quote]

Is it safe to assume that the wiring docs i found here under the technical forum will be the same for a 2000 2.5TD L300?

The wiring docs we have are not even accurate for Japanese Delicas so I wouldn't expect that they work for you. One thing I hope to do with Jay TardisDeli while my van's wiring is exposed is update our notes on the local flavor of L300. But I would not expect this to match your 2000, not at all...

I'm also going to make an assumption here - you aren't local (2000 Delica...). Well, please take loads of photos and share your experience. We can swap notes.

[Quagmire34]

Thanks for the prompt response. I'm from New Zealand, and the van is a 2000 L300 SWB 2.5TD (new shape).

With regard to installing central locking on the front doors, i had the drivers door card off during the weekend and i couldn't see any electrical wires in the door. This makes me think that i will need to drill some holes in the door/body to sort this out. I've never had to do that before in any of my previous vehicles. Is it standard practice to buy little rubber grommets, to feed the wires through? or will some sort of sealant suffice? How on earth do you get a drill in that little space without taking the door off? does anyone have any tips? experience? (am i wrong, is there already an existing wire in the door i havent seen)

Finally, thanks for the tip on splicing the wires when installing the alarm. If you had not said that i probably would have broken the circuit (what a rookie!). I didnt really make my self clear about when i was referring to the fuse box. I was actually meaning i would cut the wires up stream from the fuse box (i.e. not hard wire the fuse box!). When installing an alarm do most people refer to the wires that get feed into the fuse box to find the source of which wires do what?

Also, where abouts do you install the glass breaking sensor and microphone if the instructions state you cant install this in an enclosed compartment! I was orginally thinking these would go in an A-pillar.

If the alarm technical installation guide helps, it can be found at this link:
http://www.soundtech.co.nz/reshop/produ ... product=16
down the bottom of the page.

[RichD]

Thanks for the prompt response. I'm from New Zealand, and the van is a 2000 L300 SWB 2.5TD (new shape).

Do you have photos of your van on another thread? Please start a member's rides thread for your van as it will be very interesting to the forum.

With regard to installing central locking on the front doors, i had the drivers door card off during the weekend and i couldn't see any electrical wires in the door.

There are two possible conditions:

1) You have electric windows and locks like we do (or at least the latter). If so, open the door and you should see two hinges, and a ribbed rubber articulating conduit that contains the wire loom to the door. I can add pics to the thread when the sun is out.

2) You have manual locks. Then you will need to add wiring and a mechanical solenoid to actuate the lock. You will need to drill holes and add grommets and a hand-fashion a waterproof loom. Electrically-speaking, you will need to copy my driver's side door build (the first part I'll be working on too) as my Delica has motors in the passenger doors only; they all run off the driver's door which is manual. This mod is basically the same as adding remote locks to a manual lock vehicle. Assume you will need to remove the door from the hinges to do this.

When installing an alarm do most people refer to the wires that get feed into the fuse box to find the source of which wires do what?

Basically, yes, but I found from watching an experienced auto/marine electrical installer (Jay/TardisDeli) that you have to get creative sometimes, and the first choice you make - while it works in your backyard - doesn't always pan out to the best choice long term.
Since your truck is a production model in your country, you should look around for manuals. They should exist. This will reveal much about the wiring.

Also, where abouts do you install the glass breaking sensor and microphone if the instructions state you cant install this in an enclosed compartment! I was orginally thinking these would go in an A-pillar.

My first guess is going to be in the main cabin, up on the headliner.

[Quagmire34]

Am i blind? is there a trick to getting the manual window winder handle off? I cant for the life of me find the steel clip

[RichD]

Am i blind? is there a trick to getting the manual window winder handle off? I cant for the life of me find the steel clip

I have never seen one... no idea! Japanese Delicas are power everything.

[Quagmire34]

It looks as though i have to take off the front door cards and drill a hole through by the hinges (it doesnt have any existing wires in doors), i then need to take the kick panel off from the inside of the van and drill a hole through from that side. Im planning on making a wiring loom through the use of rubber cable tube, and grommets to seal the holes ive drilled. ill then feed the cables through the door into this rubber tubing. My question is there a particular part that i can purchase that has the door loom and seal? what is that called?

Would someone do me a huge favour and take a picture of how their van connects the wires between the doors? what does the rubber seal look like?

thanks in advance