vacuum hose question

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Mbryant
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vacuum hose question

Post by Mbryant »

I have ordered my EGR blanking plate after research, thanks for all the patient answers from all. I have been reviewing the info found here http://www.delica.ca/forum/how-to-fit-a ... html#p2313
I noticed that in the second post by FalcoColumbarius that the vacuum hose was blocked by a machine screw. My question is that screw left in place or is it just a temporary measure and should be replaced back on the valve?

Thanks
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FalcoColumbarius
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by FalcoColumbarius »

It's left in place with the machine screw. The outlet has to be blocked off to keep the vacuum working elsewhere. In the following picture you see how I plaited it up. There is a smaller hose that comes with some of the blanking kits, myself? I just use the one I have.

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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by Jensen »

Some people also jam a ball bearing in there and re-attach the hose. It looks cleaner that way IMO as everything's connected.
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by Mbryant »

Thank you for the answers. I am looking forward to my first engine mod. Hopefully all goes well.
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by FalcoColumbarius »

Just one thing...

When you tighten the bolts that affix the EGR valve to the aluminium elbow... you have a spring washer and a flat washer. Only tighten the bolt until you can't spin the flat washer with your fingers ~ and then just a tiny bit more. Otherwise you will strip the threads in the elbow, which means either re-tapping the holes or sourcing a new elbow. Same goes for the bottom bolts that go into the EGR valve.

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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by Jensen »

About those bottom fixed bolts, can those be pressed out and replaced? They're nasty!
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by FalcoColumbarius »

Go easy with them ~ it is too easy to cross thread.
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by Jensen »

so they're threaded in from the back?
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by yojimbo »

They are studs, like these:

Image

My nuts stuck to the stud and unscrewed it, I copper greased it and put it back in like a bolt. Bear in mind though that if you do that as well, the EGR plate that I had (1/4" IIRC) was marginally thinner than the EGR base mount, so I had to add a 2mm spring washer to the assembly so that it would do up ok.
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by FalcoColumbarius »

No, no, no... I am talking about the EGR valve itself, not the connexion off of the exhaust manifold. The EGR is held on by four bolts; two that run parallel with the ground that bolt the EGR into the aluminium elbow and two underneath that run perpendicular to the ground that attach the pipe from the exhaust manifold onto the bottom part of the EGR valve.

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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by Jensen »

Just wondering if I should offer replacement studs with my Blanking kit's is all, but if the studs are removable why not just pull them and use 4 bolts, ie: bolt directly into the Exhaust Manifold. I guess if anything got stuck in the future it'd be easier to remove a nut than a stud (cutting vs drilling). I just don't like the look of those old nasty studs and I'm not a fan of reusing old fasteners.
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by FalcoColumbarius »

Why fix something that ain't broke?
Those studs have been there since day one and have been expanding and contracting along with the exhaust manifold for years. They probably work very well together. Unless they are FUBARed I would leave them. Besides ~ who will even see them? If you are finicky like me then polish them.

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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by Jensen »

Using that logic wouldn't you just reuse the same hardware when you rebuild an engine? Same bolts on the main caps, same hardware on the heads. Come on now.

Seriously, those studs look like this when you take the EGR out.

Image

For a couple of pennies I'd replace them and I'd do it for a couple of reasons.

1 - I doubt you'll ever need to get in there again, but if you do it'll probably be easier to take things apart in the future.
2 - if a bolt's that rusty how are you supposed to get an accurate torque on it? Or for that matter, how do you make sure the torque between the 2 sides is even. It's an exhaust flange that could leak (and then leak alot more once it get's a good path going).

It might be overkill but it costs next to nothing. I dunno, maybe I'm just picky.
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by jessef »

If you can replace them, then it can be good.

Can be bad as well if the studs shears off inside the manifold. Then you're screwed even more.

Leave it if you can. Clean the threads so the nuts go on nice and easy.

Can't compare this to a head bolt or rebuilding an engine. :-D
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Re: vacuum hose question

Post by yojimbo »

I put new wheelnuts on each time I change a tyre.
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