vacuum hose question

[mrdueck]

I put new wheelnuts on each time I change a tyre.

You must be buying fuel caps in bulk by now!
Sorry couldn't resist.

[Jensen]

If my fuel cap was caked in rust every time I removed it I might be inclined to replace it (or at least find out why it looked that way!). Same would go for the lug nuts. If the studs look clean and good than by all means leave them. But if they're like the ones in that photo I'd pull them.

[yojimbo]

I put new wheelnuts on each time I change a tyre.

You must be buying fuel caps in bulk by now!
Sorry couldn't resist.

Hehe, I didnt think of that one!

If my fuel cap was caked in rust every time I removed it I might be inclined to replace it (or at least find out why it looked that way!). Same would go for the lug nuts. If the studs look clean and good than by all means leave them. But if they're like the ones in that photo I'd pull them.

My nuts had rusted on and though I suspect I could have freed them, there wasnt much point, the thread that goes into the manifold were in good shape, so a bit of copper grease was put on. I didn't have any studs to hand, or I would have swapped them out I guess, I decided not to use bolts as my experience is that the studs are a better quality and less likely to sieze than a bolt, I've no idea why, but I've never had a stud used as a bolt shear like a bolt does, maybe the shoulder in a bolt is inherently weaker than a stud where the nut is siezed at a random point on the thread.

Of course if I'd had studs in the kit I would have used them, unless the old ones had stayed in the manifold and the nut came free.

[FalcoColumbarius]

I would be inclined to take a wire brush to the studs if they look that bad. If they work, if the nut screws down on them properly ~ why fix it?

[yojimbo]

My top tip, a fastener badly rusted comes up sparkling after sitting overnight in a bath of WD40 or similar.

[FalcoColumbarius]

WD40 is a good cleaner.
Recently I discovered a product called Ballistol. Originally a ballistic oil for cleaning & protecting guns in the German army, it also cleans and lubricates the wooden stocks, also good for wounds. It is like WD40 as you can use it in many applications but it has better lubricity than WD40. It also costs more.

Falco.

[dennis_lambert]

I replaced all the Wheel Studs recently on the Front..they were shearing like butter probably due to stress corrosion.Replacing studs is a good idea if you got em!!

[Jensen]

Hence my original point, I'd prefer to include everything somebody would need to remove their EGR (as I'm making these kit's now and keeping them in stock). People are saying "well if I had the stud's I'd replace them but since I didn't I just left them". Well, if you think they should be in a kit I'm a guy making kits! I might just start including them anyway, they won't make the kit that much more expensive and at least people installing it will have a choice. I'm also looking at drilling all plates (exhaust and turbo side) and then plugging them. That way if people choose to install a pyro, even in the future, they can easily. Same goes for water methanol injection on the turbo side.

[dennis_lambert]

I just finished removing my EGR to Dimmension the plates I am in the process of Manufacturing and.... Ironic the Studs backed out as the nuts were totally Siezed on, so now I am going to need some new studs!! or I might replace with bolts.
Anyway jensen your compititions plates (Just kidding) will include studs and I am Contemplating tapping 1/8 pipe thread to accomodate a Thermocouple.My plates will have twice the cowbell!! Mu Ha Ha Ha.

[Jensen]

Ya but mine are made with love...

[dennis_lambert]

Mine are Quenched in Tibetan Holy water.

[Jensen]

Well, I guess you've got me beat... mine are only quenched in Cortec VpCI 337 corrosion inhibitor. Sure it'll keep them from rusting, but Tibetan holy water breeds Karma rust!