Sticky Gate Lock button

[bassnailer]

Well, it isn't "sticky". It just doesn't really work. The lock itself seems fine if open with a key; it feels smooth and works good, but the button in the cab doesn't work. Is there a quick fix? Is this a common problem?

[dennis_lambert]

Can you hear the lock solonoid in the rear make any noise when you put your ear to the door skin and someone activates the front switch??
If you can not I would start with a new switch.
If you can it might be a weak lock solonoid or the internal mechinism pivot points need a wee bit of lube.
Cheers.

[delicat]

Two options;

Take the switch out and clean all the contacts (especially the rocking ones - you'll need to take your switch apart).

Replace your solenoid inside the rear gate.

I've had the same issue, it would lock but wouldn't unlock (or vice-versa, can't remember) and not always, sometimes it just wouldn't work. I cleaned all my contact in the switch and I think it worked a few times and died again.

So I replaced my solenoid with a used one (pretty easy) and it's been working fine since.

Cheers!
David

[mararmeisto]

"Button in the cab doesn't work" - doesn't always work or doesn't work at all? If it will lock sometimes or unlock sometimes, your solenoid is probably fine; more likely your switch is dirty.

Clean your lock - never hurts. You shouldn't have to disassemble it to clean it, just shoot a load of WD-40 up there, and once it dries shoot in some LPS. (WD-40 cleans, LPS lubricates)

The problem is more usually up in the cab: the rocker switch. Take that apart, clean the contacts with a small piece of very fine emery (ScotchBrite pad would be best, but it's just too cumbersome), re-assemble and lock-unlock your worries away.

At least, that was my issue.

[bassnailer]

So, I do hear a sound in the locking mechanism when I press the button, but the lock doesn't unlock, and when it is unlocked, it doesn't lock. I guess that means the it's Solonoid? I guess I will first squirt some wd-40 in there and then some lube. I'll try what I can first without having to take anything apart. If that fails, then it's exploratory surgery time.

[Golf Cart]

Sounds like its gummed up. Best to take off the door card and clean up the mechanism. I don't know what kind of grease they use but it tends to attract dust 'n lint. Could also be the rod that goes from the solenoid to the lock lever. MY slider was doing teh same thing and turned out to be the furball that had engulfed the lever at the pivot point. Good Luck

[Growlerbearnz]

Always start with the switch- take it apart and clean the contacts, as they get burnt over time and make poor connections.

I've never had an L300 with a failed solenoid, but I've seen plenty of switches that needed cleaning.

just mind those tiny springs in the switch- they have a habit of going 'Sproing!' and flying off to neverland...

[bassnailer]

I have been to afraid to ask, or try...but how do you start to take the switch apart? What do I need to do? I'm good with hammer and nails, but switches and wires are not my forte'.

[TardisDeli]

Hi Bassnailer, mine has started doing the same thing ... sometimes its OK, sometimes I have to click the door open switch 3 times , sometimes it doesnt open, but it always work on gate lock button. so I figure to floow marammeisto's advice and open it up. Wanna get togetherto work on it, I have seen others access the door lock and switch so I know where they points are, but it would be nice to have you around when I start to say hmmm now what...

The Tardis and a couple other deli's will be in our backyard Wednesday (tomorrow) from 5:30 doing little fixes if you wanna stop by. Otherwise, next week (as we are off the join in the Okanagan mini meet and camping trip this weekend). Cheers, Christine.

[bassnailer]

would like to come by tonight, but I have other commitments for the evening. How about next week?

[Artacoma]

Happened to me .... blew out the switch with compressed air and zapped with WD40......2 years ago , still works fine.

[Growlerbearnz]

Pull the switch out of the dash towards you (it pops out), disconnect the plug from the socket on the back (push the wee release tab).

Do this following bit on a table or bench, preferably over a large fluffy towel to catch any bits that might go 'sproing!'

The back panel of the switch (where the socket is) unclips from the switch body- insert a small flat screwdriver or knife gently into the small recesses where the clips are to flex the switch body, and the back panel/socket will pop out.

Once inside you'll see a couple of white plastic spring-loaded plungers in the switch rocker- be careful of these, they tend to launch themselves to freedom when you're not looking.

On the back section are the switch contacts- remove the rocking pieces of metal and give all the contacs a quick scrape with a knife, just enough to remove the black schmutz and smooth out the pitting.

Reassembly is the reverse of removal