Oil change is coming soon!

[Pajerist]

Hello!

I was trying to find synthetic oil for our diesel, - not easy at all.
Finally I got the place to go. Who wants to place the order in BC, please PM me.
Together we can do the oil change cheaper.

Cheers,

[Pajerist]

Well, I got it for myself.
Nobody wanted to join. I got 4X4L jugs.
Anyway, Rotella 10W40 is a great stuff!
Diesel consumption dropped from 10,66 to 9,78 L/100km!, starts VERY easy, working temperature is lower than before, less noise. I like it!

Try it! Share your mind!
Cheers,

[Adrock]

I don't know much about synthetic, but shouldn't we be running 15 40?

and how much?

[Pajerist]

shouldn't we be running 15 40?

Yes, but 15W40 is mineral and I wanted to go with synthetic.

The SB on our Rotella T products generally stands for Synthetic Blend.
However, some of the products like the 0W40 and 5W40 are 100% synthetic, while the rest are synthetic blends, like the 0W40 5W30, 10W40.
I hope this is clearer than the online information.
In selecting the correct product please verify the manufacturers' requirements and specifications and if the product meets or is approved for the application, then it's good to use.
The most advanced specification for diesels to date is the API CJ-4 in north america, made to meet the demands of the 2007 and newer diesels with all the new systems and requirements, and is backwards compatible, meaning it can be used in older than 2007's as well.
The Rotella T 15W40 and 10W30 are approved API CJ-4, as well as the new Rimula Super 15W40.
There's no synthetic API CJ-4 to date with this approval
The full synthetic Rotella T 5W40 has the previous approval of API CI-4 Plus.

After that

Yes there a many cars coming over from Japan, as they apparently have a policy to not keep cars more than a specified time there,
I believe it's approximately 10 years or so.
Depending on what condition your 1991 vehicle is in and if it was driven or not while over in Japan... there may or may not
be mechanical issues. Please, if you haven't already, have it inspected. Just remember it's a 1991! with low mileage... it's hard to say.
Also, anytime you change from one oil to another there are some chemical adjustments in the engine that do occur from one oil to another,
as the engine would be accustomed to the other oil, as would the rings and valves, etc...
So there may be some oil "consumption" that takes place, yes. This is normal.
The seals will be adjusting as well, there's a 'possibility', depending on what kind were used, and they may swell or shrink a bit.
But since the 1980's, most manufacturers have used synthetic seals, so there shouldn't be any issues with this.
Unless there's some other contamination that has occured.
It's more likely that there would be oil consumption from the inside as the engine adjusts.
Sometimes, depending on what the previous oil was, it could take several oil changes before it adjusts and stops going by the rings.
The Rotella T will also clean deposits, so there may be more oil filter changes, naturally.
The ambient working temperatures for these two oils are generally upwards of 40 to 50 degrees celcius, and, of course, are made
to work and tested in severe application like the arctic at -40C to Australia's hot hot temperatures, as well as severe load conditions.
So the Vancouver area should be a walk in the park for this oil.
The distance you can go with the oil depends on the type of driving you do. We do not have any numbers for you.
Generally it's recommended to follow the manufacturers recommendations. An oil analysis can be done after that time to see how much
further the oil will go.

I decided to go with semi-synthetic, because 0W40 and 5W40 are "too thin" for our diesel.
For one oil change I used about 6,5 Litres. No leaking so far!
16 litres - 89,28 (all fee and taxes included). Pick up in Richmond, BC.
Cheers,

[Schwa]

I went looking for some synthetic oil today, CT seems to have a selection, but what exactly makes oil 'diesel' oil? Some of the synthetics don't specify gasoline or diesel anywhere, and many of the diesel oils say use in gasoline engines is fine, I guess it comes down to the various specs and approval ratings.

4L jugs

Castrol Syntec full synthetic 5w40 $38.99
Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w50 $38.99
MotoMaster Formula 1 synthetic* 5w50 $28.99
Castrol GTX 10w40 $16.99
Quaker State Peak Performance 10w40 $16.99
Quaker State HDX 15w40 $14.99
Rotella T Diesel 15w40 $13.99
MotoMaster Diesel $12.99

I went with the dirt cheap non-synthetic MotoMaster Diesel Oil until I figure out exactly what can be used in my engine, but maybe that Rotella would be better for $1 more.

[MardyDelica]

Hi, old Diesel engine usually dont like slick synthetic oil,it runs too fast to diesel engine, your bearing will wear too fast, old diesel engine need a thicker oil, so just watch how your engine perform,
i used 15W40 oil for longtime as most of the heavy duty diesel truck engine with no problem, good luck using synthetic oil on old type diesel engine. as for me i wont used it, it might destroy my engine.
cheers

[BCDelica]

The difference is small, but both my vans take exactly 6.3 L measured out of a 20 L bucket. That is full right to the mark on the stick.

[Pajerist]

what exactly makes oil 'diesel' oil? Some of the synthetics don't specify gasoline or diesel anywhere, and many of the diesel oils say use in gasoline engines is fine,

Special additives make diesel oil good for diesel as well as higher KOH!

your bearing will wear too fast

Oh, you are wrong! Syn oil cover all inside surface with thin protective film, that is why engine starts SO easy!
As for "thin" of mineral and synthetic oil, more important viscosity, and it is the SAME, - SAE 40!

Also, please refer my post above quoting Shell Support desk.

Good luck!

[Adrock]

yeah but shell is evil. If petro can gave you that info I'd trust it.... sorry, i'm letting personal issues get in the way. No oil company is great, but shell really shit the bed on some practices.

[Schwa]

What standards are required for the oil in the Delica? The MotoMaster Diesel oil I got says API CI-4, CH-4, GC-4, CF/SL. I'm gonna go exchange it for something more reputable, but I'm just wondering if anyone knows what it is in the API service specs I should be looking at for diesel oil.

[MardyDelica]

HI, Usually old japanese Diesel engine like delica & hi-ace use CD grade, if you see CD or higher i think its o.k. i used chevron Delo 400 15W40 which has cd grade on it also used the european lubre moly 15W40 oil which has advance chemical additive they put for turbo engine to protect the turbo not synthetic oil, so far so good
try not to used canadian tire 15W40 oil, get a good oil. like chevron & esso or shell used the oil tat thye used in the big truck & you will be fine, try to change oil about 4500 to 5000 kms maX as our diesel here is not so clean.
hope this help
Cheers

[Schwa]

I swapped the crappy tire oil for some Castrol HDX, says it's meant for diesels with EGRs and turbos.

When I pulled the old filter off I was a bit surprised to find a Japanese one on there... what else did Karim forget to do to my van? lol

[DelicaMark]

Karim had told me that he changed the oil and filter on mine too. I am pretty sure that he told me that he had new Japanese oil filters that he used. Take that for what it is worth...maybe true maybe not maybe I am remembering wrong...

-Mark

[Schwa]

Yeah, he might very well bring a few cases of JDM parts over in every other van... My brakes still squeak, so it's a good excuse for me to pester him about that.

[Green1]

my importer didn't change the oil (I hurried them quite a bit due to scheduling concerns of mine) however they did give me a brand new oil filter so I could get it done myself easily, the filter they gave me was a genuine mitsubishi filter from japan with japanese writing all over it and the box... so just because the filter is japanese doesn't mean it wasn't changed.