Driveshaft "werrrrrr" when throttle lifted

[alovelyman]

At speed (40+) when I left off the accelerator and coast to a stop their is a brief moment at half throttle when something in the rear of the van goes.... "Werrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr". If still coasting and I step on the throttle it'll do it again. My guess is the drive shaft. Has anyone had a this before? I can make this noise repeatedly when coasting by applying just enough throttle.

Is this a sign of Doom, or something these vans do for fun? I have a 1992 Delica, Manual 2.5L, stock height.

I'm assuming its the drive shaft since the noise seems to be throttle related and it occurs directly beneath the rear passengers feet.

[Super Exceeded]

My Guess is bearings, the sound is always being generated but at slower speeds it's just not lowd enough to hear. If I'm right the noise will just get worse and soon you'll always get to hear it.

[jelbon]

Check your driveshaft u-joints for play, but I think your noise will be from the diff if you can play a tune on it. It's most likely cause is the pinion bearings wearing out and as you let off the pedal the pinion gear is no longer correctly engaged to the crown gear and sets up the noise.
You can also check the amount of play by putting on the park brake, van in neutral and rotate the drive shaft from stop to stop at the pinion, it will give a good indication of slop in the diff. Check the u-joints at the same time.

[naterade]

I had werrrrr sounds driving on cold days when using 4WD.

Due to the cold temps the 4WD/Wheel lock was not fully disengaging sometimes, and I'd get that sound

Twice it was 'werrrring' and then the lock 'popped' back in when I slowed to a stop. (and then no more werrring)

Scared the hell out of me the first time it happened, until I realized what it was.


Could this be your issue too?

[FalcoColumbarius]

When was the last time you changed your fluids? Diff fluids and transfer case fluid should be changed every couple of years. Do you know when the last time was? What about greasing your nipples?

Also, your description of the "werrrrr" coming from behind you almost sounds like an automatic tranny gearing down as the vehicle slows down.

Falco.

[jessef]

Rear pinion bearing

[sspeedguy]

Sorry to dig up a very old post but I have this same problem on my L300 and wondered what the outcome was??
I cant find anyone here in U.K with this issue at all and I dont want to have to start investigating diffs etc if someone has already been down this route and knows what it is....
Hope someone can give me a clue

[jessef]

Rear pinion bearing and/or incorrect backlash

Funny this thread is up as I'm just doing this on Turtle this morning.

Usually happens due to either too much or too little preload and the pinion moves when you are off the throttle right at the very end of letting go of the gas pedal. You'll hear a deep whine/howl.

If you're lucky and it's not enough preload, then measuring the backlash and tightening the nut to the specified torque setting will push the crush sleeve in and set the correct backlash. You'll need a proper shop to do it because if you overtighten it, you'll destroy the pinion & crown gears. Also once you adjust the preload, you cannot loosen it due to the crush sleeve. If you have too much preload, you'll need a new crush sleeve and repeat the install process.

[sspeedguy]

Thank you for that,
It must be too little as theres no evedence of this diff being played with and its a 92 van.

[sspeedguy]

I had a look in my service history last night and I did notice an advisory from last year before I owned the van about the rear U.J having play and being a bit worn. Could this be the issue?

[Super Exceeded]

I had a look in my service history last night and I did notice an advisory from last year before I owned the van about the rear U.J having play and being a bit worn. Could this be the issue?

Sure could!

[alovelyman]

Wow,

I love the support on this site. Thanks for the advice. I am probably due for a fluids check/change. I've only has the van for a year and the previous service records weren't great.

Does it help if the sound is most noticeable with a large load in the van. If I have 7 people in there the werrr is very pronounced and much louder then when I'm on my own. The sound comes from directly beneath the rear seat, right where the diff/drive shaft are.

I've done all my own maintenance in the past and I have access to a garage but if its the pinion bearing is that a DIY job? Or a take it to a guy job? Unfortunately I live in Athabasca, Alberta which is far from... everything.

I'm going to look at the play in the drive shaft for play? (I grease everything regularly)

jfarsang, did you you take yours to a shop? what was the cost?

And while I'm messing with the diff, is their anything else I should have looked at/replaced?

Thanks again for all the reply's

[jessef]

It takes a lot of experience to setup a differential properly.

You also need the right tools.

Because it's a 3rd member, you can save a lot by pulling it out yourself and just taking the 3rd member to a transmission/differential shop that specializes in them.

Mitsubishi rear diffs are generic meaning the races, bearings can be sourced by the shop who's rebuilding it for you.

I was quote between $3-400 to replaced the bearings and setup the diff if I brought in the 3rd member myself.

I'm comfortable tearing into a transfer case and engine but have not had enough experience to setup a diff properly. I wouldn't recommend you do it unless you've done it before in which case you wouldn't be asking that question

[alovelyman]

Thanks,

I feel the same way. I have a lot of experience working on a variety of vehicles but I have never had to work on a differential before. Does anyone know of a shop in the Edmonton area that would do a good job? Is their a way to test if its the diff? I'd like to make sure before I take it in and pay a fair bit of money to have it re-built.

Brandon

[thedjjack]

online manual in the download area has specs for basics.

How much you can turn it backwards to forwards before the teeth stop the turn, and the torque needed to turn the diff.