help trouble shoot a/c

K-Factor · Post by **K-Factor** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 12:19 am

In alberta, princess auto is the cheapest for refrigerant - 1299 a can or the like when its on sale. I had a similar problem on mine, but it was a pinhole in the condenser underneath. If you had the equipment or knew someone that did, it would be a good idea to run a vacuum on the system for a while to be sure all water is boiled out of it. The longer it is open to air, the more this can be a problem. It may work for you without it, but just be aware that water in the system could damage stuff. Having said that, I never ran the vac on mine and it's ok, so what am I worried about?
I hope all works out well for you. Also, if you can get one, use a filler with a pressure gauge attached (0-100psi at least) as they help you see how far you are and what your system is up to.

KSY

after oil · Post by **after oil** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 7:13 am

K-Factor wrote:In alberta, princess auto is the cheapest for refrigerant - 1299 a can or the like when its on sale. I had a similar problem on mine, but it was a pinhole in the condenser underneath. If you had the equipment or knew someone that did, it would be a good idea to run a vacuum on the system for a while to be sure all water is boiled out of it. The longer it is open to air, the more this can be a problem. It may work for you without it, but just be aware that water in the system could damage stuff. Having said that, I never ran the vac on mine and it's ok, so what am I worried about?
I hope all works out well for you. Also, if you can get one, use a filler with a pressure gauge attached (0-100psi at least) as they help you see how far you are and what your system is up to.

KSY

the refrigerant is a little more than that at crappy tire, i never go there, but its the only place in town that sells it. the hole in the condenser is only about 6 weeks old, so there hasnt been much chance for moisture, and the parts condenser was sealed. but ill see if i can find somebody to put a vacuum on it and not charge an arm and a leg. ive got the filler with guage

mararmeisto · Post by **mararmeisto** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 7:46 am

You should still take the time and spend the money to have someone vacuum test and then fill it with coolant.

The trouble with moisture inside the system can be two-fold: it'll either freeze when the system is running, which could lead to seizure of the compressor; or it'll promote corrosion, which could lead to seizure or another leak. Either way, next time you may have to replace more than just a couple of lengths of hose and the condenser coils.

after oil · Post by **after oil** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:51 pm

mararmeisto wrote:You should still take the time and spend the money to have someone vacuum test and then fill it with coolant.

The trouble with moisture inside the system can be two-fold: it'll either freeze when the system is running, which could lead to seizure of the compressor; or it'll promote corrosion, which could lead to seizure or another leak. Either way, next time you may have to replace more than just a couple of lengths of hose and the condenser coils.

okay.. lets hope somebody in powell river can do this... if i cant myself

after oil · Post by **after oil** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 8:12 pm

got the system evacuated today, $20 (plus had to buy high pressure port adapter $11 on the shelf at powell river's new lordco) it held vacuum so all good on that front!
the low pressure port adapter is kinda wonky in that the filler hose quick connect connects on it fine, but only when its NOT threaded on to the port, or threaded less. i tried to put lubricating oil in and it seemed to leak out, so im gonna buy another low pressure port adapter and try again.

after oil · Post by **after oil** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:57 pm

go her filled and she's blowin' cold!! the wonkiness of the quick connect kinda sucks.. i had to hold it on to fill. i put three cans of REdTek in.. should be good!
HOWEVER it seems like the idle stays high all the time now and the compressor wont shut off.. ideas?

TardisDeli · Post by **TardisDeli** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 11:39 pm

HI Ari, good luck, very impressed with your efforts. Just to say sorry you had a lack of response to your questions, but there is NOT much experience with L300 AC. But we are eagerly learning from you. Most of us dont bother with the L300 AC once it stops working (since it needs costly newer size fittings installed before a garage can look at it). Wayne the LazyGreenFox was a gas fitter so knows his stuff, and Mararmeisto had AC on his ships, otherwise can't think of any experts. Cheers, Christine.

jessef · Post by **jessef** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:41 am

Did you check the fuses and relays for the coldbox ? It they are wonky, it may interfere with the rest of the A/C system.

Turtle will appreciate the coolness.

after oil · Post by **after oil** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 6:45 am

TardisDeli wrote:HI Ari, good luck, very impressed with your efforts. Just to say sorry you had a lack of response to your questions, but there is NOT much experience with L300 AC. But we are eagerly learning from you. Most of us dont bother with the L300 AC once it stops working (since it needs costly newer size fittings installed before a garage can look at it). Wayne the LazyGreenFox was a gas fitter so knows his stuff, and Mararmeisto had AC on his ships, otherwise can't think of any experts. Cheers, Christine.

the fittings are $11 each at Lordco... ill bring up the numbers later, but they found them in the book for me. AND had them on the shelf! the ones i bought are brass and solid. the one in the REdTek kit is aluminum, and i broke one....

jfarsang wrote:Did you check the fuses and relays for the coldbox ? It they are wonky, it may interfere with the rest of the A/C system.

Turtle will appreciate the coolness.

im not yet sure where those fuses are.. any clues? ive certainly checked all the ones behind the glovebox
turtle doesnt need any help being cool

naterade · Post by **naterade** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 5:58 pm

May I pose a question to this thread refarding my new AC problem?

It was working just fine at home, although the clutch would make quite a cluink when I hit the switch.

I am currenntly road tripping in BC, and wouldn't you know it, as soon as I get over the rockies the AC stopped working. No clunk start, no idle increase, no cold, just when I need it most.

Checked the fuse box and the three fuses behind the glove box. All good. Any other simple troubleshooting tips I can try tonight while camped out?

I am thinking (and hoping) that its something simple, because it was just fine a couple days ago.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

Post by **thelazygreenfox** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:16 pm

nat
search ac and like words. Troubleshooting ac been explained a few times before. Preface your problem by saying what works been done to your ac before.

If you're in the lower mainland stop by and we can go through it with your vehicle. PM me and we'll meet in Coquitlam.

Maybe an AC delica meet would be a good idea, trouble is everyone needs it "now."

Good luck
Wayne
TLGF

after oil · Post by **after oil** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:35 am

if you had cold until recently, ill rule out the possibility of low pressure cutting out the compressor. of the relays behind the box, the one on the right is for the compressor. i jumped the top two connections on the plug to bypass the relay to see if the compressor actually works..

my a/c blows cold now, but also blows the stank of the lubricating oil or refrigerant

what we need is a dedicated a/c tutorial thread

Post by **FalcoColumbarius** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm

Ari, have you checked L300 Downloads regarding this? There is a PDF file for the L300 Heater & A/C System, discovered by Dennis Lambert. I think it might actually be for a Paj but I would think that the principle is the same. Regarding the tutorial thread, we are actually working on this currently.

Falco.

Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

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