Glow plug 'click'

[jessef]

@Nick - No problem. The way Butch wired it is smart. This will lower user error when holding the button/switch for longer than norm. That's a good idea. I'm going to mention it to Bill (owner of our manual glow Paj).

@RSI - My comparison with glowplugs was solely when used in a manual system as I said above. The OEM greentops are the best. Tried and true and tested in hard winters. So it doesn't matter what your shop or other shops use unless it's for a manual system like the one we are discussing. Starting a spitting match with CVI and others is not cool. This is a constructive thread.

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

@RSI - My comparison with glowplugs was solely when used in a manual system as I said above. The OEM greentops are the best. Tried and true and tested in hard winters. So it doesn't matter what your shop or other shops use unless it's for a manual system like the one we are discussing. Starting a spitting match with CVI and others is not cool. This is a constructive thread.

Yes, should be constructive.

Steven

[White Mule]

Wow what a long read.

Last year I installed a manual switch. The logic being when the ecu craps, I will still start. Also my outside gfi likes to pop in the middle of the night when its -40, leaving the block ice cold for when I go to work.

The manual glow plug switch should be installed always.

I went switch to ashtray light. Then from the switch to a dedicated solenoid. From the solenoid to the bus bar (#8) and from the solenoid to the battery (#8).

[nxski]

Thanks for bringing this up again, your set-up sounds really good if I can figure out my ECU woes I'll have the manual switch as a back-up as well.

I started it up again for the first time since my last post. I held it for 10 seconds, off for a few seconds, held for another 10 and then started it. It fired up perfectly and then proceeded to cough and splutter as if it was about to die, so I turned on the glow plugs for a few more seconds and it ran great after that.

[Blackberry]

The summary of my problems...
My problem started immediately after replacing my glow plugs.
- The glow plugs were tested and all light up
- There was power going into the relay but no power coming out when ignition was turned on
- The battery has been tested and works

I turn the key and don’t hear a click and my engine turns over but will not start (lots of grey smoke pours out of the exhaust pipe)

I have since had my ECU tested and repaired (bad soldering repaired and bad capacitors replaced) and tried multiple wiring solutions…
- ECU was placed in my vehicle and didn’t work
- ECU was placed in another Delica and did work
- A different ECU was placed in my van and didn’t work
- The different ECU does work in the other Delica


1) Wire from Battery – Switch – Relay = click but no start (held for 4 seconds X 3 times)
2) Wire from Battery – Switch – Relay – Bus Bar = click but no start (held for 4 seconds X 3 times)
3) Wire from Battery – Switch – Bus Bar = no click + no start (held for 3 seconds X 3 times)
4) Wire from Battery – Switch – Bus Bar = no click + no start (held for 6 seconds X 2 times)
5) Wire from Battery – Switch – Bus Bar = no click + started (held for 10 seconds)

When I got new (non-mitsu - HKT or HKF or HT CP-06's I think? $2.60/ea in BKK chinatown ) glow plugs that were supposed to be the correct ones for my van (according to glow-plug manufacturer's catalogue) I got the same result as you - no click/no glow/no start. It turned out they had sliiiiightly higher resistance (like 1/2 an ohm) than the green-top mitsu ones (my van is a '92 and has the OEM MD092392, 6.2 volts - for 02/91-06/93 ones). This date range had a specific "Super Quick Glow System" that, I think, was problematic for them and so probably why it was so short-lived before they changed back to the 11v, simpler config. If your van falls into this date range and your new ones are these Mitsu OEM MD092392, then I don't have a suggestion to solving your problem. Being cheap, I've tried to find an alternative to the pricey Mitsu's - bought a set off UK Pajero club's ebay store "Aut-x" brand, part # AXGP564 (search UK pocuk.com site for discussions about these/this year's system) and NGK Y115R1 ... but haven't got around to testing them yet (only drive it warm months so no biggie yet).

[nxski]

Thanks for sharing, the system is working well as-is right now so I'll leave it be. When the glow plugs need replacing again I'll try playing around with different brands. I guess that means I'll be holding onto my ECU

[L300Foca]

WOW nice thread !!

I have same problem whith my relay!
-First, my relay react to fast (not more than 3 seconds for both click)
-later, when i drive in 4.speed in HI rpm i heard CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK
-now, it takes to long time between 2 clicks (30 sec to minute), or second click is missing....

I didnt check my ECU, but, when I saw your posts, i think that i dont have to :)

As well, i didnt change my glow plugs, they worked before !

[nxski]

Sounds like your temperature sensor. If not that you may want to take a look at your ECU.

[Deli of the North]

Funny to find this post- I'm having the same thing happen. I changed the glowplugs, turned the key, no click, nothin'. I checked the temp sensor, got a bad reading, so ordered a new one, which arrived yesterday. I immersed the new one in a jar of ice water, plugged the harness in, and still no click. Two questions i have after reading the thread are -where is the fuse by the battery? I couldn't see it anywhere. Also, to activate (jumper) the glow plug relay, I need to supply 12v positive to the small wire in the center of the relay? Here's another thing- I checked for power coming into the ECU with the key in the run position (i checked each pin on both wiring harness' going in) and only found power (4v- odd?) on one pin. I would have suspected 12v coming in somewhere, Also, 3-4 days after all this crap started, the battery, fuel filter and A/T temp lights started to stay on- 'seems my alternator is pooched too. When I checked it. there was oil and coolant dripping onto it (from a still undetermined source) so i'm not surprised it's done. I'm nearly getting frustrated. Any helpful tips are very welcome! (I've already thought about the gas and a match solution, though) Thanks, Kevin

[nxski]

As I never solved my problem I would suggest installing a manual switch. Then, have your alternator rebuilt. De-grease your engine and try to determine where your leaks are coming from. 'Simple green' and a hose will have it cleaned up nicely. Check your clamps on your hoses, valve cover gasket, turbo, etc. Once you have ruled some things out if you still haven't sorted it out others should have some more suggestions on what to do.