Turbo help

[Lapprentis]

An oil separator in the breather pipe, though, now that cleaned it up a *lot*.

Any pictures of that setup of your GB ?

Thanks

Lapprentis

[ChuckBlack]

That actually sounds like a decent idea! My guess is having a drop Y connection back to sump, allowing only vapour to bypass on the upper section of the Y!

[Growlerbearnz]

There's a thread on it here: http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16901 and how my first attempt went a little bit wrong. Connecting the separator drain to the dipstick was a *really* bad idea. Now it just drains into a catch tank near the air filter, which I drain every now and then.

If I was re-doing it I'd spend a bit more and use a ProVent oil separator rather than the BMW one- I've heard they work well on diesel engines, and the BMW separator still lets a little oil through. http://chiptuning.com.au/provent-style-oil-separators/

[joebillhill]

Well the beast is out, though not separated yet. I feel this is a test in patience and self control ( I want to take a large hammer to the unit as the intake and exhaust turbine housings are seized together). Any suggestions on separating the two? I'm just using pb blaster and a rubber mallet.
As for the wastegate, I don't have a direct view of it yet but it feels like it is functioning just fine. Opens and shuts just fine with a metallic clunk.

[Growlerbearnz]

I'd work on the exhaust side first, since it may involve large hammers and it's easy to damage the intake turbine if it's exposed.

I doubt a rubber hammer will do the trick- you're going to need sharper impacts to move all the corrosion between the exhaust scroll and centre cartridge. I use a steel drift, but obviously be careful not to crack the cast iron housing. You can also try a cold chisel as a wedge in the groove between the two parts. When it starts to move, take it off straight and evenly- if it gets too crooked it can jam up even worse.

The intake scroll is usually easier, but the O-ring can be a bit sticky. PB Blaster is definitely your friend, but you might have to hit it a bit harder than you expect to overcome the O-ring's springiness. You've removed the giant circlip, right?

[joebillhill]

Gotcha. I'll look to track down a steel drift while the PB soaks in. I haven't removed the circlip yet. I figured i'd get the scroll and cartridge separated before going after that bundle of joy.

[ynwa]

Gotcha. I'll look to track down a steel drift while the PB soaks in. I haven't removed the circlip yet. I figured i'd get the scroll and cartridge separated before going after that bundle of joy.

And don't forget photos! Inquiring minds want to know. :) Good Luck!!
Unfortunately, you have to resize them, I think it's no bigger than 900x900?

[joebillhill]

Will do Ynwa! though there's a really good DIY here from Rattlenbang. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14171&hilit=turbo+rebuild
Right now i've got the problem of my rebuild kit arriving but it being the wrong item. It's a for a TF035. Looking at their compatibility chart though it does show the l300 4d56 .
Does anyone know if the bearings, seals, etc. the same for the td04 and tf035? Also, did the l300 switch to the TF035 in the mid-late nineties?

[Growlerbearnz]

TF035s were fitted to some 4M40s in L400 Delicas, but I have no idea if they're the same internally as our TD04s. I would presume not.

One thing Rattlenbang glosses over in his rebuild is keeping the turbo balanced. most of the balacing is on the turbine wheels, so can't really be messed up, but sometimes the turbine retaining nuts will have metal cut away to balance the turbo. If so, you'll need to reassemble so the nuts end up in the same orientation- mark the turbine and take photos.

[joebillhill]

Finally got my td04 kit and will be dissembling and reassembling my turbo this evening. There doesn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary with it ie. seized, broken/bent fins, etc. so it makes me wonder if when I put it back together I will change my inactive turbo situation.
Is there a way to test our wastegates? Mine clicks back and forth and seems like it closes with an audible clunk like there is a piece of metal being slapped against another.
To me it seems fine, I just would like to have peace of mind before I put all this stuff back on the engine.

One other thing to add for this rabbit hole. I cleaned out the vacuum pipes that are on top of the rocker cover and blew out some gunk. Any ideas if that will affect anything?

[Growlerbearnz]

The gunk came out of the steel lines, presumably (I recall you replaced the flexible lines). I don't think it would do much for power or boost, as they're involved in controlling the EGR.

Testing the wastegate- Hmm. It's a fairly simple device, it sounds like yours is working ok. You could try blowing air into the wastegate outlet port and seeing if it comes out the front side?

This really is a most curious problem. Nothing you've described so far sounds like it's bad enough to cause low boost.

[joebillhill]

It's perplexing! So I was able to get everything back together and took it for a short spin around the block. Still smokes like nobody's business under load and still smokes on idle.
Things that I noticed during reassembly/driving:
The wastegate actuator had a decent amount of oil in in.
The actuator rod length is same as yours Growler but on mine it didn't allow the wastegate arm to go up all the way
I hooked up a boost gauge and in 1st gear it didn't generate boost and i really had to throttle it in other gears to get it to rise to only to 5 or 7. The gauge also seemed jerky and didn't respond in a predicable manner if that makes any sense.
I'll see what I can do about the actuator rod length as that definitely seems like a culprit unless my compressor wheels are getting snagged on the side walls of the housing...

[Growlerbearnz]

You wouldn't miss the sound of a touching compressor wheel, it's like turbo whistle only much louder and more expensive-sounding.

The wastegate lever arm should definitely be up all the way (wastegate closed) when at rest, and it should be under a bit of tension to hold it closed. If it's not closed, you won't make any boost. If it's not under enough tension holding it closed, exhaust pressure will just push the wastegate open.

Since you have a boost gauge, you could test the wastegate by locking it closed- disconnect the actuator rod, and use a bit of tie wire or a heavy spring to hold the wastegate lever up (closed) as tight as possible. Take it for a gentle drive around the block- if it works, you should see plenty of boost. It's easy to control boost levels with the accelerator. Try not to let it go above 20psi, though there's a blowoff valve in the inlet manifold which should prevent any damage.

The combination of oil in the wastegate actuator, and it not actually letting the wastegate close, suggests the actuator may be at fault- a split diaphragm, maybe? Or gummed up? Weird that it's a random length...

The smoking at idle is a worry too. It should be unrelated to the boost issue, but have you checked your oil and water lately?

[joebillhill]

Thanks Growlerbearnz, I feel like we might be getting somewhere here.
With the wastegate wired shut it runs just fine as far as I can tell. Took it around the block and got it up to maybe 50-60km in 2nd and 3rd gear and it was boosting up to 9 or so. I imagine if I took it on the highway I could have gotten it a lot higher.
The smoke on idle isn't too much (hardly noticeable) once it's warmed up a bit.
With it in neutral, if I give it juice, it smokes. Though is this a concern? I would assume not since there's no boost being generated and therefore its a fuel rich mixture. Feel free to let me know otherwise though.

[joebillhill]

Also oil and water don't seem anything out of the ordinary