Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

this thread has been hijacked! its a WVO install thread in a WVO forum.. someone report this to the moderator! oh wait the mod is the hijacker!!!

konadog wrote:Just had another look at your spare mount (when having another glance at the dog sticker ) and I noticed your licence plate is mounted in the center of the spare. I'm pretty sure the plate is required to have a lamp shining on it...

yeah, i hope thats just temporary, ill figure out a permanent place soon enough and add a light.

after oil wrote:this thread has been hijacked! its a WVO install thread in a WVO forum.. someone report this to the moderator! oh wait the mod is the hijacker!!!

Showing how the WVO tank looks now.

after oil wrote:]bcdelica: its kinda like posting pictures of your children.. youre so proud!

Yep.

Might be easiet after looking at the pics to just move the plate over to the left on the hatch.

BCDelica wrote:
Might be easiet after looking at the pics to just move the plate over to the left on the hatch.

i was thinking exactly that today!

ive been working on this again for the past couple of days:
first the heat exchanger is mounted. i couldnt get a drill in to make the holes for the mount, so i took the "hood" right off. i had to peel back the carpet and undo a bunch of bolts and screws,but i got her done.
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next the return valve. i spent hours trying to figure out where to put this. i hate that the "hood" is so flush to the body when its down. no room for anything. its the silver lump o' metal under the yellow wire
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heres the relays, one for the glow plug in the heat exchanger, and one for the WVO assist pump
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and the pump, its on the body crammed in behind the connector hose for the stock tanks. i had to take off the plastic inner step to get in to bolt it on.
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and the filter fit best behind the passenger wheel. i made some brackets and bolted it to the battery tray. the filter heater is simply 1/4" hose tapped into the cooling system. i took this out of my nissan truck b/c i took that thing off the road in order to focus my energy on my new ride.
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i'll soon tap into the heater hoses to heat the filter and heat exchanger, any suggestions in to which hoses i should tap? i want to tap into thehose that comes out of the block, then to the heat exchanger, then to the filter, then into the hose that returns to the block.
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it aint pretty, thats for sure, but it should be effective...

yesterday i Tee'd in to those two hoses and plumbed up all the coolant lines. i hate coolant. i drained it the hard way, from one of the hoses. but i got a good fit on the Tees.

i also finished and cleaned up the wiring and tested it all.. seems to work great!

im going back to dons on wednesday to do the rest of the tank and plumbing job

ive spent three or four good days on this!

don welded a fitting onto the tank like the one on the spare tank
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we plugged the old tank filler holes with a frost plug clamped in the hose
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and the banged in the hose connecting the two tanks!

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we really were goin at her and i was doing alot of figurin' . first to make sure the valves were all plumbed right and the werent but they are now.then tryin to understand the delica two tank ventilation and pick up/return and try to copy it for the new configuration. im not sure i got it right..

test driving around the block was fine on both fuels!
i drove to town on WVO with my wife to celebrate with some fish and chips from a place that i get WVO from

there was a few hiccups, loosing power but idling fine. and i fooled around a bit today and same thing. so the problem is it drives fine on wvo for a few minutes then totally looses power, but idles fine. as soon as i switch to diesel the power comes back. the valves dont switch untill about a minute passes, (programmable purge time, just havent programmed it yet.) ive enquired to the inventor of this unit about the timing and ill know soon.

in the meantime i cleaned up the mount and the wiring a bit.

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id like to clean up the power center a bit too, not sure yet how. the relays flop a bit in those screws.

im pretty stoked about how relatively little f-in around there has been to do this install(so far) im helping some friends soon with their installs of these same kits. a boat, a tractor, and a land cruiser!

after oil

it occurred to me that the problem with loosing power might be because i used 1/4" line for the pickup. bad idea. i re plumbed so the pickup is a 5/16" hose that goes to the bottom of the stock tank. problem solved!
i drove around all day today on veg!! i notice loss of power when going uphill. the return is also 1/4" so ill soon replace that with 5/16" too.
i think im pretty much done!

(we shall see)

after oil wrote:it occurred to me that the problem with loosing power might be because i used 1/4" line for the pickup. bad idea. i re plumbed so the pickup is a 5/16" hose that goes to the bottom of the stock tank. problem solved!
i drove around all day today on veg!! i notice loss of power when going uphill. the return is also 1/4" so ill soon replace that with 5/16" too.
i think im pretty much done!

(we shall see)

are you returning the veg to the tank?

if you have it going to the tank then try to plumb a looped system meaning the veg that returns out of the injector pump is returned to the supply hose (between the valve and the injector pump) in order to keep the hot oil in the motor. works very well...

Andrew

AndrewH wrote: are you returning the veg to the tank?

if you have it going to the tank then try to plumb a looped system meaning the veg that returns out of the injector pump is returned to the supply hose (between the valve and the injector pump) in order to keep the hot oil in the motor. works very well...

Andrew

interesting you should say that andrew, because this new version of the gocanola/svd enterprises kit includes a valve for returning fuel to the respective tanks. the valve is on a delay from the incoming valve to allow for a purge from the lines. the old version of this kit, the one that bcdelica had in his vans, and me in my old truck, did not allow for return to the tanks and was instead plumbed back to the heat exchanger and then the IP. the two possible advantages are eventually heating the wvo tank and much faster purge time...

I'm a little bit concerned with the looped return for IP longevity... It seems to me that if there's friction in the IP and the fuel provides the lube, the return line would have some fine metallic particles that should be filtered out before returning to the IP. I'm pondering changing the loop to go before the filter so that stuff can be filtered out.

Schwa wrote:I'm a little bit concerned with the looped return for IP longevity... It seems to me that if there's friction in the IP and the fuel provides the lube, the return line would have some fine metallic particles that should be filtered out before returning to the IP. I'm pondering changing the loop to go before the filter so that stuff can be filtered out.

that may be true. in fact the inventor of this kit just emailed me this:
you should check the return flow bolt witch is on the injection pump itself,This bolt has very small,little tiny hole,from witch the back flow going out to the tank,in our case back to the reverse valve.If this hole is plugged you going to loose power and also will be difficult to start the car.Inside this bolt there is small filter,but on the Japanese vehicles I am not sure.Remove this filter from the bolt,clean the bolt ,make sure there is free flow from the small hole on the bolt and everything will be OK.

i wonder if the delica IP has this? a quick look leads me to believe it doesnt, unless its inside the banjo fitting at the return. but interesting nonetheless that there is a filter there which might back up your theory schwa

i went round trip powell river to victoria yesterday on WVO!!

two things happened:

after about 330 km the WVO tank went empty, indicating there is no siphon between the two. on the roadside i switched to diesel and managed to crank it through and got going again. near the hwy in ladysmith i found a place where i could back up a steep grassy slope and drain wvo fwd into the stock tank. the gauge went from about 1/4 to about 1/2. i flattened out and added 40 litres and carried on back to the comox ferry.

in nanoose the van suddenly died, i thought it was the same thing. although cranking diesel in did nothing. i looked in the hood and discovered that the "glass" sight filter had melted!!! i quickly replaced the section of hose from the heat exchanger to the IP and carried on about my way.
the system is programmed to shut the glow plug off at 65 to 75 celcius, but the glow plug didnt shut off the whole trip, until i remembered (after the plastic glass filter melted) that i can shut it manually.

i searched 9 pages and couldnt find the engine running temp...

after oil wrote:but the glow plug didnt shut off the whole trip, until i remembered (after the plastic glass filter melted) that i can shut it manually.

Lucky !!!!!!!!!