Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Erebus wrote:

bionic wrote:...my point was the advantage of more negative offset for lateral stability

But you are also changing the entire suspension geometry if the centre (left/right) of the tires is moved out with respect to where the designers of the front suspension designed it. That can, depending on the type of front suspension, cause way more issues than that extra couple of inchs in stabilty.

And that's the extent of my suspension knowledge, so I can't say exactly what effect it would have with the Deli's suspension type.

If you extend the offset over 4-6 inches outwards, then it's putting a lot more force on the wheel bearing/hub.

If you stick with 6-10 inch wide rims with 3-4" backspacing, then it won't put any more stress than stock rims/wheels.

Spacers are also not a good idea.

You can go up to 2.5 inches of suspension lift without drastically changing the suspension geometry. With the height comes added width supplied by wider rims/tires. That equals a wider footprint than stock = more stability.

Of course it all depends on what type of rims, tires and suspension components that are being used.

..suspesion geometry will not be effected unless the stud flange distance has been altered..strain will simply be absorbed at the stud. The offset off the wheel WILL effect weight distribution in relation to the center of gravity which I believe you are refering to. ...clearances etc will certainly be effected.

Went snooping to see if I could find a site that explains the effects of changing rim width and offset. Didn't find it yet, but did find a good basic intro to suspension geometry: http://www.steeringboxscrapers.com/view ... =10&t=2118

Explains camber, caster, toe-in, toe-out, bump steer, even Ackerman angle.

Found another site (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... 263&page=5) that at least explains the "why" of offset in rims:
"Suspension geometry in basic terms is determined by drawing a straight line from the center of the upper ball joint, through the center of the lower ball joint and down to the center of the contact patch of the tire. Since that line is rarely perfectly plumb, the wheel is OFFSET to make the contact patch of the tire sit in the correct position. The offset is determined by some crazy smart engineer with way too much education.

"Since offset is calculated using the centerline of the rim, offset will remain the same regardless of wheel width."

If you go with wider rims with more offset, then that straight line no longer lands in the middle of the contact patch. That should/must have an effect on handling. Still looking for good explanation.

Keywords for searching: toein, toeout, bumpsteer, castor

Happy DELIcious New Year!

I'm running 30" Nokian Vativa's on 16x7 black steel Cragar's (same as American Racing) without any modifications.
Torsion bars are fully cranked. There is a wee bit of rub on the rubber when the steering wheel is fully cranked (which does not happen often),
but nothing of any significance. The offset gave me a wider stance, which was a definite benefit to the handling; there is not as much body roll when in a corner. I have also driven this setup on many deactivated logging roads without any challenges. I wasn't interested in lifting my Deli, as I have a Crystal Lite
with a basket/bike rack that I use regularly. The lift with 31"s is definitely more of an eye catcher, but there is no where that I have ever traveled with my Deli that has made me wish that I had a lift or bigger rubber. I do 80% of my driving around the Lower Mainland from the North Shore and this is another reason that the 16's are nice.

Cheers,

Joe

Ah, finally found a useable explanation (on a Mini site, of all places)
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

Reading it, I see that if you increase the offset, and also increase the tire size, you can cancel the two out and keep the stock king pin offset. Nowhere do I find anything about how much change is bad. (BTW, in the article damper=shock absorber; it is a Brit site)

jfarsang wrote:I think the best setup for 'all-around' 50/30/20 city/highway/offroad for an auto (99% of Delica's) is a 30x9.5x15 tire on a 15" rim...


...I have 15x8 rims with 3.75" backspacing and that 1/4 of an inch is all that is keeping me from sliding the side door all the way back.

You can also get away with a 15x7 rim with 31's as well.

For bang for you buck, performance and what you get out of it all, a 1" suspension lift and 30" tires is the best compromise.

So for a 30x9.5x15 tire, should be looking for a 15x? rim?

jwfchase wrote:

jfarsang wrote:I think the best setup for 'all-around' 50/30/20 city/highway/offroad for an auto (99% of Delica's) is a 30x9.5x15 tire on a 15" rim...


...I have 15x8 rims with 3.75" backspacing and that 1/4 of an inch is all that is keeping me from sliding the side door all the way back.

You can also get away with a 15x7 rim with 31's as well.

For bang for you buck, performance and what you get out of it all, a 1" suspension lift and 30" tires is the best compromise.

So for a 30x9.5x15 tire, should be looking for a 15x? rim?

15X7 .
You could even use a 6.5 inch rim.
I'm planning on 265/75/15 on a 15x7 as soon as I get some drive to do the T-Bar twist. I get all hybernative come December and spend most of my time working on stuff that fits on my bench - like flys and ammo.

jwfchase wrote:So for a 30x9.5x15 tire, should be looking for a 15x? rim?

Like Golf cart said.

30x9.5x15 Tire Size

Minimum 15x6.5 rim
Best 15x7 rim
Maximum 15x8 rim

A 30x9.5" wide tire does not seat well on a 6" wide rim (stock Delica rim). It 'will' fit and you 'can' drive on it, but if you do a hard, long corner at highspeed, it puts a heavy load on the sidewall and may cause the bead to un-seat from the rim lip.

That is why some places will not mount a 30x9.5 tire on a 15x6 rim. Liability issues.

So many wheel experts in this thread. Exactly the right place to ask:

I want to keep our stock tires (LT235/75-15) but want new black steel rims. So I was wondering which from this American Racing rim is the right size?
Also Cragar has a nice steel rim, but just don't know which size to get: http://www.cragarwheel.com/catalogs_397.html

I'm also wondering what is the advantage/disadvantage from steel or alloy rims?

Thanks for your help

Felix,

Based on American Racing , the AR7675783 is the one.

But why not run down to a Big O, and get the story from the guys that do this for beer in the fridge and bread on the table.

I seem to recall JRMan picking up Rock Crawlers for cheap in North Van.

Cheers

AR7675773 is the one you want

15x7 4" backspacing

the 235's won't fit on 15x8 rims

Thanks. Now I have two different numbers :)

I thought you need 6 bolts for a Delica.

Is it possible to mount 30" tires on this rims as well. Or is there are rim size which fit both?
Don't want to buy new tires right now, cause' mine are still good, but thinking about to change them later to 30".

He's right. I need glasses

i just emailed NSOR for a price quote and they recommended i use:

Procomp black rock crawlers series 51 15x7 (PCW515783) : $75.82 each

when i looked thes eup ont he net though it said they had a 5"backspacing, did i screw up on my search or are the guys a NSOR thinking 5 would fit in a deli wheel well ( i told them what i drove and what not and theve deffinatly scene many delis before)

fexlboi wrote:I want to keep our stock tires (LT235/75-15)

That isn't actually stock. If I remember right (unlikely), stock is 215. 235 are the largest tires that fit on the stock rims.