12V Glow plugs - do these exist??

[nxski]

I understand the pro's and cons of the manual system however for those who already have it installed it's good to know that you have the appropriate glow plugs for the way you have wired the system. For example, mine is wired through the relay / step down resistor so it takes much longer to heat up at start but I can keep power going to my glow plugs for an extremely long time without having to worry about burning them out (I typically do 3 cycles at 15 seconds a piece when it gets below 0C). The other option is to run 12V to the 6.2V plugs in which case there is a much higher risk of burning the plugs out and one must not hold the switch on for more than about 5 seconds, the upside is that you can start your vehicle much more quickly if you're impatient in the mornings (probably best to drive a petrol vehicle in that case though ).

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

Here’s very educational thread.
In the manual switch, you have to turn it over by relying on your xxxx.

If the glow plugs are not shutting off, then the tips will burn "on" too long and burn out (envision the glow plugs are a cigarette with the betaing end a glowing red hot ash tip)... with 2 outcomes: best case scenario they just need replacing immediately; worst case scenario the red hot metal end falls off (just like cigarette ends do) and the red hot tip falls into a piston, and now the piston and shaft are toally broken and you need a new engine .... there is an actual example of this EXACT sad scenario on the Butch / CVI customer counter as a warning.
Your No-Click is from only one of 2 events: power IS going into glow plugs "red hot cigarette" ends but NOT shutting off, hence burning up your new glow plugs (time to buy more $$$$$); or else power is NOT going into glow plugs (since the weather is still unseasonablly warm you would not notice the lack of glow plugs (until this weekend when the weather will start to get colder). Then you will be posting another on how come you can't start, and now have ruined your starter motor / battery / etc.

Perhaps your new plugs are the wrong voltage, there are 2 different voltage plugs (6v vs 11.6volt) which MUST match the voltge of the circuit board that sits behind you and goes click ... just one click, otherwise read my postings (search Norther Ontario) on Morse code clicks and how you NEED a new coolant sensor asap. Again, coolant sensor becomes noticeable in October when our weather cools. The board may have an old age failure of one of the capacitors, can take to an old fashioned little old TV repair man or ham radio operator (they just look at board, see which component is oozy and toasted, go buy a new matching one and solder it on).
So, deal with it today .... it is cheaper to miss a day of work than to rebuild your engine.
Christine.

Steven

[nxski]

Tha quote was written to me by Christine when dealing with my glow plug problems. With my set-up now it is possible to burn out the plugs by leaving them on too long but unlike putting 12v into them which would kill them quickly it would probably take minutes to damage them by putting 6v in. This is how CVI recommends to install the manual switch and I haven't heard of any complaints.

[nxski]

Resurrecting again... I hate these HKT plugs for screwing up my ECU (wrong resistance) but my manual plug system has been working great until now. I probably burnt them out because of user error but to be honest I still want to keep my manual system for the very smooth and easy starts, it just feels like I'm putting less strain on the engine and starter. This time I want to go the 12V route and am wondering if anyone knows of a good plug that will work? I was thinking Bosch but don't know of a part number that would fit.
Thanks

[Morganizer]

I'm having problems with cold starting lately. Last autumn, I rebuilt the ECU and the solenoid (see http://www.delica.ca/forum/rebuilding-t ... -4139.html to find out what kind of mechanic I am), so suspected these failed again, but they are fine.

But there is only 0.29v at the glow plugs.

There is 11.7v on one side of the solenoid, and 11.7v on the other terminal when the solenoid closes, and if I disconnect the wire from the bus bar, there's 11.7v on the end of that wire too. But when I hook it up and turn the ignition on, it drops to 0.29v.

I measured the resistance of that wire, and it's 4.5 ohms. Pretty substantial compared to the four glow plugs in parallel (a little over an ohm apiece) so I thought aha! there's the problem, resistance in the wire. Which means I should find the other 11.4v in the wire. Nope. 0v measured across the wire, when there is 11.7v at the solenoid and 0.29v at the bus bar.

So where is that voltage dropping?!!

I checked across the solenoid terminals -- 0v when the switch is closed, and 11.7v open, just what you'd expect.

What's even stranger...I bypassed the wire with a heavy-gauge jumper with alligator clips. Same thing: 0.29v at the bus bar. (cue Twilight Zone music here)

Any ideas? What do glow plugs do when they wear out? Really lower their resistance?

Oh, and I took the glow plugs out, measure their resistance individually, and tested them with the battery and they all glowed red. (not orange-white as the other post says, but red).

Van starts first crack when I jumper the battery to the bus bar.