Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

i got some new glass sight filters. i ordered 4, just to be sure that at least one is glass. (and because i got a few more WVO kits to sell, so i figured i might as well pick them up)

they are all 4 glass, and very obviously different from the plastic one. they are all the same brand too!

im presently unsatisfied becaue of the loss of power on WVO. now i know that one should expect a loss of power, but all the other vehicles i ran on WVO the loss was unnoticed.
when i come to any incline, the transmission shifts down and my speed dramatically drops. a hill that i can go up at 100 with diesel, becomes 60 with WVO.
i wonder is it because my lines are 5/16" and not 3/8" or perhaps becuase the return in only 1/4"...

any of you other wvo-ers out there lose power in their delicas?

I do when my filter gets plugged up, but otherwise it's hardly any different than when on diesel.

Same as schwa, only when the filter is dirty I bogg down going up hills. I only get 5000 km out of my 2 micron onboard filter when I pre-filter down to 10 microns. I'm looking for a large 2 micron spin on filter to polish my WVO down before putting in the vehicle. Maybe I should just sell my current set up and buy a centrifuge, but I heard that centrifuge polishes the oil down to 1 micron but only after a few passes, any know if it can polish to 1 micron in one pass?

Schwa wrote:I do when my filter gets plugged up, but otherwise it's hardly any different than when on diesel.

so than probably something is amiss in my system...
where do i start?

39Ronin wrote:Same as schwa, only when the filter is dirty I bogg down going up hills. I only get 5000 km out of my 2 micron onboard filter when I pre-filter down to 10 microns. I'm looking for a large 2 micron spin on filter to polish my WVO down before putting in the vehicle. Maybe I should just sell my current set up and buy a centrifuge, but I heard that centrifuge polishes the oil down to 1 micron but only after a few passes, any know if it can polish to 1 micron in one pass?

i dont know a heck of alot about centrifuges, mostly what i read here. but i understand that there aint a centrifuge that filters in one pass.

Schwa wrote:I'm a little bit concerned with the looped return for IP longevity... It seems to me that if there's friction in the IP and the fuel provides the lube, the return line would have some fine metallic particles that should be filtered out before returning to the IP. I'm pondering changing the loop to go before the filter so that stuff can be filtered out.

I am thinking that if you have fine metallic particles coming out of your injector pump then you have larger issues. The return is just the fuel that is simply not injected through the injectors, it passes right through the injector pump and at no point should it be in contact with grinding metal parts.

The looped return allows you to keep the oil hot before it enters the motor and I am betting that the issue you are having is going to come down to the lack of heat of your oil. Purge time for the kits I have put together is not that long with the looped system and the beauty is you can choose to send the WVO right back to your fuel tank by simply turning off both switches. As far as heating the WVO tank with the return oil, the tank should have a separate heat source so that should not be the issue.

In my eyes it is going to come down to lack of heat either in the tank (hard for the IP to pull the cold oil from the tank), which explains why the issue subsides as soon as diesel is going through the motor, or a lack of heating prior to injection, (burning coolish WVO).

Your system looks good but IMHO it lacks enough heat, the exchangers will have a hard time heating the oil to the required temp as the required temperature to burn the oil is just under the temperature of the engine coolant alone. Even if the exchangers transfer 100% of its heat with 100% efficiency you will have a hard time.

Solution: vegtherm.
I have one you can borrow to test out for a little bit but I need it replaced or returned pretty quickly.

Andrew

AndrewH wrote:

Schwa wrote:I'm a little bit concerned with the looped return for IP longevity... It seems to me that if there's friction in the IP and the fuel provides the lube, the return line would have some fine metallic particles that should be filtered out before returning to the IP. I'm pondering changing the loop to go before the filter so that stuff can be filtered out.

I am thinking that if you have fine metallic particles coming out of your injector pump then you have larger issues. The return is just the fuel that is simply not injected through the injectors, it passes right through the injector pump and at no point should it be in contact with grinding metal parts.

The looped return allows you to keep the oil hot before it enters the motor and I am betting that the issue you are having is going to come down to the lack of heat of your oil. Purge time for the kits I have put together is not that long with the looped system and the beauty is you can choose to send the WVO right back to your fuel tank by simply turning off both switches. As far as heating the WVO tank with the return oil, the tank should have a separate heat source so that should not be the issue.

In my eyes it is going to come down to lack of heat either in the tank (hard for the IP to pull the cold oil from the tank), which explains why the issue subsides as soon as diesel is going through the motor, or a lack of heating prior to injection, (burning coolish WVO).

Your system looks good but IMHO it lacks enough heat, the exchangers will have a hard time heating the oil to the required temp as the required temperature to burn the oil is just under the temperature of the engine coolant alone. Even if the exchangers transfer 100% of its heat with 100% efficiency you will have a hard time.

Solution: vegtherm.
I have one you can borrow to test out for a little bit but I need it replaced or returned pretty quickly.

Andrew

if youre talking about my system, and not schwa's, im satisfied that the wvo is heated enough. thanks a million for the offer of the vegtherm.

my kit has a glowplug that heats the oil when the engine is not at temperature. its meant to shut off between 65 and 75c . like i posted earlier, it didnt shut off on a long trip until i remembered to shut it off manually. maybe my engine doesnt get hot enough to shut the gp off.

as for the hard to pull cold wvo from the tank, i guess the inline assist pump is meant to solve that prob.

andrew, i am not an expert. i very much welcome your advise.

ok, getting a better idea. have you taken the glow plug out and bench tested it to see if it is still working? Glow are not meant to be active for long periods of time as they tend to burn out.

I would take the plug out and test it before going on with further modifications/headaches.

Andrew

after oil wrote:

39Ronin wrote:Maybe I should just sell my current set up and buy a centrifuge, but I heard that centrifuge polishes the oil down to 1 micron but only after a few passes, any know if it can polish to 1 micron in one pass?

i dont know a heck of alot about centrifuges, mostly what i read here. but i understand that there aint a centrifuge that filters in one pass.

There is a type of centrifuge that will completely clean the oil in one pass, basically you adjust the flow rate of the oil to adjust the amount of polishing it gets since the longer it sits in the centrifuge, the more particles 'fall' out of the oil. You cannot do that with the Dieselcraft type where the centrifuge is powered by the oil being pumped into it because it requires a certain flow rate for it to spin a certain speed... You'll need a more traditional kind, like the Simple Centrifuge... That's what I'll be investing into when the time comes.

http://www.simplecentrifuge.com/index.html

also keep in mind that most glow plugs run off 6 or 7V not 12V. They burn out very quickly under that load, a simple resistor can fix this though.

Andrew

Schwa wrote: There is a type of centrifuge that will completely clean the oil in one pass, basically you adjust the flow rate of the oil to adjust the amount of polishing it gets since the longer it sits in the centrifuge, the more particles 'fall' out of the oil. You cannot do that with the Dieselcraft type where the centrifuge is powered by the oil being pumped into it because it requires a certain flow rate for it to spin a certain speed... You'll need a more traditional kind, like the Simple Centrifuge... That's what I'll be investing into when the time comes.

http://www.simplecentrifuge.com/index.html

do you think this centrufuge would be a be-all-end-all for one-pass-on-the-road-WVO filtering/dewatering?

AndrewH wrote:also keep in mind that most glow plugs run off 6 or 7V not 12V. They burn out very quickly under that load, a simple resistor can fix this though.

the glow plug is supplied by the maker of the heat exchanger. i would hope that he supplied a 12v glow plug.

check the plug, it will be stamped on it.

Andrew

"do you think this centrufuge would be a be-all-end-all for one-pass-on-the-road-WVO filtering/dewatering?"

Hi guys, I saw this question and thought I would toss in my 2cents. I have developed a competing unit to the Simple and have always been intrigued with an on the road setup. You could use a basket centrifuge on the road but they are a little larger than a 5Gallon bucket and you will need to stop, plug-in and gravity feed through them (container to container) and ideally 10-20 gallons at a time over an hour or two. It holds about half a liter in the bowl and you should heat the oil for best results. I am working on a bolt-heater but in the mean time you will have to figure that out on your own or just go very very slow. Anyway, I didn't want to hijack the thread but you can see my WVO Centrifuge at http://www.WVOdesigns.com

-leon

leongriffin wrote:"do you think this centrufuge would be a be-all-end-all for one-pass-on-the-road-WVO filtering/dewatering?"

Hi guys, I saw this question and thought I would toss in my 2cents. I have developed a competing unit to the Simple and have always been intrigued with an on the road setup. You could use a basket centrifuge on the road but they are a little larger than a 5Gallon bucket and you will need to stop, plug-in and gravity feed through them (container to container) and ideally 10-20 gallons at a time over an hour or two. It holds about half a liter in the bowl and you should heat the oil for best results. I am working on a bolt-heater but in the mean time you will have to figure that out on your own or just go very very slow. Anyway, I didn't want to hijack the thread but you can see my WVO Centrifuge at http://www.WVOdesigns.com



-leon

thanks leon, nice to see youre out there!

[quote="after oil"
the glow plug is supplied by the maker of the heat exchanger. i would hope that he supplied a 12v glow plug.[/quote]

Yep, they are 12v on those systems.