Squealing clutch, a bit of rattling and some smoke

[Della-Kat]

Hello Everyone!

I hope you are all doing well! Carmen and I have had a very successful tour across Canada in our Delica up until about 3 hours ago. We are now 3,000 Km away from home in Dryden Ontario and our beloved Della is not doing so well. We pulled into town to get some food and when I depressed the clutch, I started to hear a very unhealthy squeal from underneath. We quickly pulled into the 7-11, I turned the van off, jumped out and looked underneath to find that (you will have to help me with terminology) where the clutch arm is attached, at the bottom of where I think the Clutch plate is located, it was smoking a bit. It wasn't smoking a whole lot, but it was smoking enough to tell me that there was definite unwanted friction happening inside of that containment.

We sat for a while as I did a bit of research and to let everything cool down. While we sat I had Carmen depress the clutch while I watched and it appears as if there is a definite problem with the clutch arm not disengaging fully. in fact, at one point it stuck so much that I could have wiggled the whole post out.

After the van cooled down, we knew we had to find some place we could park for the possible next few days while we figure out what to do, especially since we are definitely not going to be able to find a mechanic or anyone to help us during this Canada day weekend. We drove to the Mcdonald's for their internet and as I was driving, it seemed that it would only squeal horribly when the clutch was pushed in. The clutch would stick and continue to squeal until I pulled up on it with my foot.

Another observation I had made was a slight rattling coming from the containment I had described earlier.

We are stuck in Dryden until we can figure this out. Any help would be so appreciated!

THANK YOU!!!

[Growlerbearnz]

What an exciting start to your honeymoon.

Think of the lever arm that goes into the clutch housing (the domed containment between the engine and the gearbox): if you depress the clutch pedal and then let it out again, would that lever arm feel loose, or would it feel tight? (I think you're saying it's loose).

If the lever arm feels tight, then the fault is in your hydraulic system- for some reason the hydraulic cylinder is jamming in the half-on position, keeping the clutch partially disengaged (like driving with your foot half on the clutch pedal), slipping the clutch and overheating it. Repairing or replacing the hydraulic cylinder (either the one at the bellhousing end, or the one inside the cab) is fairly easy and relatively inexpensive. I sincerely hope this is the case.

If that lever arm feels loose, it means the clutch inside the bellhousing is jamming in the disengaged position, and not springing back to push the lever away again. This would be the beginning of your worst case scenario. You'd have to pull the gearbox and probably replace the clutch, because something in the clutch has come astray and is jamming it up. You might even have to have the flywheel resurfaced, if the clutch has damaged it. If you have to go down this path, don't neglect to replace the release bearing while you're in there.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

[Della-Kat]

Hello Growlerbearnz,

Thank you so much for your reply. After doing a ton of research, I am certain I am going to have to get into the bell housing to examine the clutch and flywheel. It sounds almost like the throw out bearing has exploded and there are pieces rattling around inside of the containment. Luckily there are some EXTREMELY kind folks here from one of the Churches in Dryden who have offered to help us. I am hoping to open the containment to see if I need to replace the whole Clutch kit or if I can get away with only replacing one or two of the parts as we are on an extremely tight budget.

Have you or anyone who has read this preformed this work to their Delica in the past and if so I would really REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY LOVE some pointers and steps as to how to do it.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

[Firesong]

My clutch has been done a few times.
If you are ordering a clutch kit, once the unit is opened there is no
short cut. Replacing only a few parts is not recommended, do the whole
thing. The tough part is separating the tranny, from the clutch to get at it
all. So when it's open.. might as well do it all. When you get a kit, get
one for the delica. I tried going the route of just getting a ranger/bronco
87.. or what ever it was that 'should' fit. All did 'except' the throwout bearing...
What a pain that was.

Would I do it on my own... nope. I was able to assist the mechanic and
watching him swear and then use his mad skills to align it was beyond me.

But it was a standard type of install he said, just not a lot of available movement
to slide things around.

FS

[Della-Kat]

So, as an update, I have dropped the transmission after a long day of removing bolts and sensor wires. ManitobaDelica was nice enough to guide me through the process of dropping the transmission which, If i didn't have his help, I couldn't have taken this project on with and hope for success. THANK YOU JASON!

After observing the transmission side of the bell housing I confirmed my suspicions of the Throw bearing being completely destroyed. What was left now of said bearing was merely a collection of rings.

I can't thank Jason enough for his help! Although I am unsure if we will be traveling north enough in Manitoba to stop by for a visit, I would like to send you a token of my thanks after Carmen and I get on the road again.

Ill post about how the installation of the bearing goes and the lining up of the transmission after the hard work has been completed. I sure hope everything moves along according to plan!

Talk soon!

[Luna-Sea]

Good Luck!

[Della-Kat]

Success!
It took a little while to formulate the best method of lifting and moving the transmission, including the transfer case, around freely enough to get it to slide into the motor but after a few tries and about 3 hours I finally managed to get it done! this job definitely would have been a lot easier if I had an actual transmission jack but I will describe to you how I was able to finally get the two hydraulic jacks to work for me so that if you are ever faced with this same situation these tips will help the process.

First off, before you drop the transmission and transfer case you have to make sure that all cables are removed; this includes the speedo and the slave cylinder for your clutch. ***Helpful tip- If you do not want to bleed your clutch line tape the slave cylinder's plunger tightly so that it doesn't get pushed out. This saved me a ton of time! After disconnecting all cables, sensors, grounds and the rear drive shaft you should only be left with the bolts in the bell housing (the part if the transmission closest to the engine) and the bracket near the back (with the rubber shock mounts) holding the whole unit up (you can unbolt the front drive shaft and just let it hang off of the transfer case). Place your two hydraulic jacks (they must have wheels) under the transmission. I would suggest putting the first jack right under the bell housing and the second jack holding up the very back of the unit where the rear drive shaft connects. With these two jacks in place you should be able to unbolt all remaining supports and then slowly work the transmission down. Make sure to pull the transmission straight back as far as you can to safely remove the splined shaft from the motor. You will have to slowly lower the back and front intermittently for it to work.

Yay! you have the transmission out!

Now! if you would like to put the transmission back where it belongs, raise both jacks enough so that you can get the transmission high enough to bolt the back rubber bracket on. Keep the Transmission as level as you possibly can! After you have the rear bracket bolted on again it will help you keep the transmission straight so that you can slide the splined shaft into the engine. If you are having trouble sliding the transmission in that last half an inch, use a couple C-clamps where the two bottom bolts thread. Slowly tighten one and then the other (or both at the same time) while carefully jiggling the transmission. This should pull the transmission right in. Make sure to grease where the release bearing slides and put some never seize on the spined part of the shaft as well as at the tip for the pilot bearing.

hope this information will help someone!

check out photos of our tour at www.Tour.CatHats.ca

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

Good to hear, Aaron!
Have a nice trip.

Steven

[Della-Kat]

Thank you Steven! And thank you for going out of your way to send us that part so quickly! YOU ROCK!!