kickdown cable removal

[rainypotato]

I need to do this now, but must be sure...anyone know how to do this? thanks

[FalcoColumbarius]

I need to do this now, but must be sure...anyone know how to do this? thanks

I'm not following you. You want to remove your kick-down cable? Are you going to replace it? Are you trying to adjust it? What are your plans?

Falco.

[rainypotato]

Sorry,

Yeah, need to replace it. Currently removed pan from old transmission, to discover how the cable is attached.


How to carefully operate a smooth removal is my trump of this moment. It should be simple, it looks simple...?

This cable is pristine, the one connected to my van is awful. There is a boot where it enters the gearbox, it's a disaster of cracks and crud. The cable at orange accordian end is pulling out, (with slight crunchies feeling) and not sucking itself back in. Not sure if this is the cause to my previous post problem, but hard to ignore. Trying to rectify.

Any opinions on running the van with the kickdown let go for a day? Partner badly needs wheels tomorrow. Erg.

What's the sweet move to take out that dreaded cable from withing the gearbox?

[rainypotato]

And thanks falco, i think it was you that pointed out the need to replace rad hoses in a previous post. The darn lower was nearly punctered through where the alternator adjustment thingy banged along. I used the old hose to create a protective sheath as preventative measure as the new one was poised for repeat fail. And, your coolant flush instructions rocked. Jen

[rainypotato]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rainypotato


If anyone is interested in photos of said cable removal location, the above link. It's the best i can do with thid old phone

[rainypotato]

Not quite like a brake cable on a bike, and doesn't pull straight out. Tried sheepishly to move it out to the left but it kinda got jammed. Breathe. Try again

[FalcoColumbarius]

The kick-down linkage is what enables your tranny to shift gears. I'm not sure how your wagon will move without it, nor am I qualified to tell you how to disconnect it from the transmission, sorry. At the orange accordion end you can adjust the linkage so that your tranny shifts gears at different RPMs. Next down the line from the orange accordion boot is a bracket that the cable needs to sit in. It's held in place by two thin 14mm nuts. The orange accordion itself is a boot that covers the cable to keep crap out, that's all. You should be able to pull that back onto the end.

And thanks falco, i think it was you that pointed out the need to replace rad hoses in a previous post. The darn lower was nearly punctered through where the alternator adjustment thingy banged along. I used the old hose to create a protective sheath as preventative measure as the new one was poised for repeat fail. And, your coolant flush instructions rocked. Jen

Glad to help out... smiles.

Falco.

P.S.: I like your ravens.

[rainypotato]

further inspection and clean up on the running gearbox, and the kickdown cable entry to...the rubber thingy with the aluminum part were not only cracked, but completely torn. that is, when I pulled on the cable housing away from the entry point into the gearbox, the actual cable was exposed. Tried taking a photo but too dark. Fluid film and working it through from that end is the quick (I hope I can drive tomorrow) fix - might through in some duct tape as I am wearing a faded mackinaw (red/green, eh?). it's crummy dirty and jammed up in there. Definitely need a replacement, and I'm so close with the spare tranny

looking at the autotrans manual, I just can't seem to confidently find the removal procedure.

Anyone care to look at this attachment?

[rainypotato]

thanks falco, copper etching is my studio project of late...expanding the graphics soon

[rainypotato]

ack! I think I have to unbolt the valve body assembly! 17 bolts...and am I going to be in trouble or what? I sure hope parts don't spring around...

[Manitoba deli]

I have had a couple l300's come in the shop with the cable disconnected at the engine side, due to the pin falling out that holds it. I did reattach them, but I'm not sure how long they were driven like that.
Jason

[rainypotato]

Ok, well...last chance for two cents...going to drop the pan and try to remove the kickdown cable from the gearbox...

[sub-arctic]

From the page out of the manual it looks like the valve body should just lift out when you pull the 17 bolts, i would beware of seals/ O-rings between the valve body and the transmission housing, you will want to check them out to see what they look like before putting it all back together. try pulling the cable off the spare tranny first. that way if parts walk away during dissasembly, you know what you are getting into when you go to pull the valve body off the van

[bionic]

The only advice I would give after re-installation on the top side is MARK THE CABLE to use as reference for the new one. (stroke) The transmission kickdown on the Delica is very finite, and if you don't set the tension correctly you either over-rev the engine between shifts, or have shifts too early which dog the motor. (even less power) I must have re-adjusted mine 10 times to get it right.

[rainypotato]

I DID IT!!!

that's good advice, I underwent the surgery on my lawn with the old transmission, took the valve body off, wrecked things, and got a good enough look to realize I could do it without that trouble. So, off went the pan and A LOT of needling around and resting and breathing to get the old cable off and the new one, clean, back on. So happy. Now, the kickdown isn't engaging as gutsy as the last cable, so a bit of fine tuning is in order. I wonder if this part has more to do with preference than prevention? ie, what hurts my wagon more: over revving or under revving?

All that said, the new question is...and another topic I suppose...is what is the fan and radiator looking thing ahead of my radiator? and, should the fan be moving when the engine is going or what? it doesn't seem to be.


Thanks for all the support on this here forum.