gen 2 power step problem

[obeygravity]

Last winter my power step stopped working...tracked it down to a VERY dry bushing that needed lube. Now again it is being tempermental. Not coming out, coming out after a minute of open door or not closing until a few seconds after the door has closed. Pretty sure this time its electrical issues as the dome light doesn't come on when the step is not out. Guessing it is related the multi contact thing on the door, but wondering if anyone has encountered this before. Don't have a lot of time to poke around and trouble shoot. Thanks.

[obeygravity]

No takers on this one? Can any one point me in the right direction?

[Big-Bird]

Our UK brethren have some details on the steps. I recommend you register on their site so you can view their posts and content. Very good stuff on that forum.

Quote courtesy of DelicaClub.com

"that electric step is a little bit complex , there are 2 microswitches operated via cams that limit the step's travel and it may be one of these that has failed in your case. these microswitches tell the ECU to cut power to the motor.

the motor is similar to a wiper motor , driven by gears to the step mechanism. maybe try to free up the bearings.

you will need 2 helpers to remove that step , it is a bit fiddly. I used a couple of milk crates and some bits of timber to support it while i removed the bolts. don't let the wiring take any weight , unplug first. the ECU has been known to fail as well."

[P.Gaudreault]

I have the same problem. I guest it's because I washed my van last week and there is wather in and at our -30 these days it just freeze in place. It moves but slowly, very slowly and not every time.

[obeygravity]

Well, winter retuned,and so did the problem. Absolutely electric issue....but with a new twist. When the step chooses to retract, the dome light is off. When it chooses to extend, the dome light is on. Fair enough. I figured that part out last time. Now the fun part. If the back hatch is open, (which also turns on the dome light) the power step works flawlessly. If the side door is open, and the step has chosen not to extend, opening the rear hatch will cause step to extend. Similarly, closing the hatch, with side door still open, will usually cause the step to retract. I am at a loss as where to start looking to track this down. Help?

[Big-Bird]

I did some reading on the steps since you first posted and the problem, which is common on Mitsu's, is the doorjam switch.

the switches are really simple internally.... A couple of copper contacts and a spring. the contacts on the spring side bend and only give partial contact.

thankfully they are easy to service once unplugged from the body. I have to fix my drivers door switch again and will post tonight. I don't have power steps but the switches are the same.

[obeygravity]

Oh joy! My wife and children will thank you if you have insight into helping me fix this. Believe it or not, they don't enjoy the step sporadically moving in and out.

[Big-Bird]

Switch in the jam, remove the screw.

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Pull the switch out and tape the wire to door jam.

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Remove the rubber boot, set aside.

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The (6 pcs) switch comes apart by hand with gentle pressure.

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Clean all contact points with a scotch brite pad (not sand paper)

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These 4 contact areas get dirty.

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The small aluminum plate needs to be filed/sanded flush. Modellers file or fine grit emery on a flat screwdriver.

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Putting the switch back together requires finesse and note there is an alignment pin on the switch body.
1) Insert the spring into the switch body with the 2 brass contacts.
2) Insert the copper contact into the pin base.
3) Insert the Pin Base into the switch body with the metal plate.
4) Hold your finger/thumb over the hole and prevent the pin from going in all the way.
5) You will need to wiggle the switch halves so the copper contacts slide in properly...this is made harder due to the spring.
6) I like to use aluminum tape on the switch halves so they don't come apart in the door jam.

Reassembly is tricky but pateince pays off. I use aluminum tape to secure the switch seam.

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The side slider doors use a much simpler switch. I think you can figure this one out on your own.

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[obeygravity]

Thanks for the tutorial. Problem is mine looks like this. Sorry about the blurriness, it was taken at dusk in the rain holding a squirmy two year old. The most extended black area depresses upon contact, plus the middle three contacts each are able to depress individually. Some portion controls the light, the step retract, and I believe it also pulls the door fully closed if it is almost closed. It would appear that they make an electrical connection as the pillar side has corresponding metal contacts. Some much for simpler. Might just be time to take the whole thing apart and start poking around.

[Big-Bird]

Those contacts you took a pic of are for the power door catch and auto lock relay system in the slider door.....not the interior lights. My slider door has the same contacts and I don't have power steps. When you open the front doors the steps should pop out too and they don't have a contact patch like the slider door....only a jam switch.

for anyone reading this post: Another way to tell if your driver's door switch is faulty: If your headlights are on and the key is off....opening the driver's door should sound an alarm for headlights-on.........no buzzer=bad switch contacts.

The dome lights are turned on by a switch in the slider door jam. open the slider door all the way and look at the right side of of the jam. Your photo actually shows a small bit of it on the bottom left side of the pic.

you could have a loose connection, broken switch, or the little screw that holds the contact on the spring pin has fallen off and landed inside the body panel somewhere.