L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step

[Tojo]

Hello Delica.ca,

The head on the ol' L300 cracked about a year ago and I'm finally ready to tackle the job. My van is parked uncovered in the backyard, no hydraulic lift or air tools. Grungy backyard mechanic! I'll be doing the updates in real-time so it might take awhile. I'll endeavor to be as clear and concise as possible. Let me know if you have questions. Best to download the full service manual and refer to the torque specs there.

The following is a step by step head and timing belt replacement for a 4D56 2.5L turbo diesel as found in my 1993 L300 Delica Super Exceed. It has 140,000 kms on the clock and has had a pyrometer since it was imported in 2009 with 56,000 kms. Timing belts and water pump were replaced on import. It's pretty much stock except for EGR blanking plates, pyrometer, K&N filter and stainless 2.5" exhaust. Turbo cartridge was replaced as well as the turbo seals. This is the first time this motor has been torn down. I'll try to upload as many photos as I can and add as much detail as I can. I'm presuming that you have some basic mechanical knowledge, as well as good "feel". I find that this intuitive mechanical skill that some people have is very important when working on a motor. Knowing when to use force, and knowing when to back off before shearing a bolt is the difference between success and frustration. Although I've wrenched on a lot of vehicles, this is the first time I'm tackling this motor, so if there are constructive comments or suggestions from mechanics who have done this before, it would be appreciated.

Tool list (*will be updated as we go*):
- Metric socket set, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
- Metric impact sockets
- Closed end wrenches
- Ratcheting closed end wrenches
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat head screwdriver
- Lever bars
- Breaker bars, 24" and 30", 1/2" drive
- Trays for collecting parts
- Trays for collection fluids
- Funnel
- Wire brushes
- Needlenose pliers
- Bent needlenose pliers
- Lineman's pliers
- Wire brushes
- Soft mallet
- Soft scraper
- Torque wrench
- Roloc bristle disc
- Cam/Crank removal tool

Supplies (*will be updated as we go*):
- Deep Creep penetrating oil or similar like Liquid Wrench
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- WD40
- Super Lube silicone grease
- Automotive solvent
- Degreaser
- Brake cleaner, aerosol can

[Tojo]

Remove the drivers seat by following this excellent post: http://www.delica.ca/forum/drivers-side ... -2125.html

Then remove the centre console, there are two hidden phillips screws under the power window switches. I did this so it wouldn't get damaged when I remove the passenger seat.

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Remove the bolts behind the passenger seat. Then remove the seat and engine cover. Don't forget to unplug the cable!

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And now the engine compartment is opened up and ready to go.

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[Tojo]

Disconnect the battery

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[Tojo]

Remove upper radiator hose and coolant overflow hose.

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Ratcheting closed end wrenches are handy here to get at the radiator hose clamps.

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Remove clip for fan shroud by sliding rearward.

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[Tojo]

Remove the single bolt that holds the radiator. There is a metal spacer inside the rubber sleeve which I promptly dropped down onto the skidplate somewhere.
Will have to remember to locate that later.

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This little bugger of a phillips screw was rusted on, so I cut it off. I'll replace it with a new one upon reassembly. It holds the fan shroud on. Now you can slide the other fan shroud off towards the drivers side.

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[Tojo]

Next I removed the radiator hose on the drivers side. It's difficult to access the bottom of the hose, so I just detached the top. Also, remove the rest of the fan shroud by undoing 4 bolts. Two are shown with arrows and two are hidden and are difficult to access as they are deep in there. Use a socket extension or long sockets.

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Now you can remove the two hoses at the bottom of the radiator. This is where I used some penetrating oil and a wire brush to loosen up the seized clamp.

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And once that's done, pull the radiator upward, carefully so you don't damage the fins. Nice to have a helper for this. You are left with an engine compartment that looks like this.

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[Tojo]

Decided to remove the inspection panel on the timing belt so I could see the condition. No oil, nice and dry with a bit of black dust. Could probably have pushed it but I'm replacing it after 80,000 kms which is on the safe side.

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Took off the fan. Awkward but doable. Four bolts hold the fan onto the pulley. I've heard some mechanics call these belts "rubber Bando's" because they are supposed to stretch out.

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[Tojo]

Remove the fan, then loosen off the nut that threads onto the rod to tighten the belt tensioning pulley.

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I decided the loosen up the 4 bolts that hold together the crank pulley. Still trying to decide how to remove the pulley as there are several ways to do it.

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Loosen up the bolts that secure the alternator tensioning bracket.

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[Tojo]

Loosen off the bolts on either side of the power steering pump.

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Hooking two closed end wrenches together like this gives more leverage in tight places and helps to crack this bolt. Mine was stubborn, used lots of penetrating oil and let it sit for awhile.

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Now that all the belts are loose, remove them and mark them. Then remove the fan pulley which just slides right off.

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Mark and remove the vacuum hose that crosses in front of the timing belt cover.

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Loosen off the hidden nut and remove the tensioner pulley.

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[Tojo]

Remove the glow plug rail.

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Make a note of where the wire attaches to the third glow plug.

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Remove the two small hoses that attach to the turbo. Bent needlenose pliers work well for this.

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[Tojo]

Pull the power steering pump out of the way and wire it to the side of the engine compartment.

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Remove the power steering bracket.

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Then remove the second half of the power steering bracket attached to the head.

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[Tojo]

Remove the flexible and metal air intake hoses that lead to the turbo.

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Detach the short hose that goes to the valve cover.

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Starting to clear out the drivers side of the block, to eventually dig down to the intake and exhaust manifolds. Remove the other vacuum hose marked "B" in this photo that leads to the turbo.

[Tojo]

After you've removed the large flexible hose leading to the turbo, as well as the small vacuum hoses, reach in there and wiggle the axle of the turbine to check for excessive play. If there is too much play, then rebuild your turbo by replacing the seals and bushings, or replace the cartridge itself.

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Remove the vacuum rail attached to the top of the valve cover.

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[Tojo]

Remove the sheet metal heat sheild attached to the exhaust manifold. Mine was rusted on there, so I was patient, used lots of penetrating oil. Because the bolt head was getting rounded out, I ended up hammering on a smaller imperial sized 3/8" closed end wrench and cranking on it. Finally it cracked loose. Last resort would have been to use the torch and heat it up, but didn't have to this time.

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Remove all the bolts and nuts for the intake and exhaust manifolds.

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[joebillhill]

This is great Tojo! Very detailed and loads of pictures to help me and others along. Thanks!