Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Good day,

The valve underneath the turbo, attached to an arm, when the valve open, does it go in or out? Does the arm push inside the valve or outside? The reason is that I have lost the long bolt and I will replace it. I am not sure how far I can screw it in the screw attached to the valve. Hope this is clear as mud

Fred

I think I know what you mean, but I need to clarify a couple of things:

-The "valve" that connects to the lever arm is the Wastegate Actuator. It's the tin can shaped thing with a vacuum hose connected to it, right?

-You say "underneath the turbo"- on most Delicas the wastegate actuator is *above* the turbo, by the inlet manifold, connected to the lever by a long rod. (Pajeros have the wastegate actuator underneath the turbo, and maybe some Delicas made after 1995).

Anyway:
The wastegate actuator has a spring inside that pulls on the connecting rod, normally holding the lever arm up (closed). When the actuator opens the valve, the connecting rod is pushed out of the actuator.

On a regular, actuator-above-the-turbo Delica, the connecting rod should be 22cm long, measured from the lever arm pin to the actuator. If you make a new connecting rod that's the wrong length, you'll change the amount of boost you get before the wastegate operates.
HTH

Thank you so much for that.

Yes I mean the actuator and yes, it is above the turbo.

I lost the long bolt that holds the rod to the actuator. So my first task is to find another one (long bolt). Not sure if it is a special bolt or not and also in the meantime, is it going to harm the turbo/engine if not attached to the actuator.

Thank you for giving me the length it has to be as well.

So my next question is, that long bolt that attach the actuator valve to the rod, is it something I can find at a NAPA or any supply store? I am again in a very remote place at the very end of the Newfoundland northern peninsula.

Thank you,

Fred

Sorry to bring this up again, but all I need to know is if the bolt that hold the actuator valve to the rod is a special one or can I find it at a supply store or NAPA.

Thank you.

I would doubt it, but the only way to know for sure is to go to the shop and ask. Even Mitsubishi only sell it as part of the whole actuator assembly. The problem is that it's a right hand thread on one end, and left hand thread on the other.

You need to find a clever and creative engineer. I reckon you could make something that clamped the existing rod to the actuator.

I know I could go to a supply store and check, but I am an hour drive from the closest one and now I am concern driving too much without the valve hooked up on the turbo.

Driving with the valve disconnected won't cause any harm- the wastegate will stay open and prevent the turbo from making any boost, and without any boost the fuel injector pump will operate the same way as a non-turbo engine. You won't be able to go very fast though, the turbo is a huge restriction in the exhaust *and* the inlet. You might make a bit more smoke, due to the exhaust restriction.

Rona, Home Depot, and possibly Home Hardware (not Canadian Tire) have a selection on bolts, rods, specialty connectors. You could check the bins and try your luck.

L300 uses a TD04 turbo assembly and so do lots of other turbo cars. Subaru Wagons are the most common...not the WRX hatche versions.

There are also some old turbo Dodge models from the 80's that also used the TD04. Daytona, Laser, and even a Dodge Caravan. All used either he 2.2 or 2.5 engine will the small turbo.

Ooops sorry to res again, but clarifying, shortening the total rod length will increase boost?

Yes. The wastegate actuator contains a spring that tries to pull the wastegate closed, while boost pressure tries to push it open. Shortening the rod puts more tension on the spring, meaning it takes more boost before the wastegate will start to open.

Be careful though- if you make the rod too short the actuator can run out of travel before the wastegate is completely open, leading to over boost.

Thanks for the tip, plan to try when its less wet out.
I only wanted to change from my current 9 to 12psi, should it be ok? Or should I measure the shaft.

Thank you :)

I used to get 12psi from shortening the shaft without issues, but beware that your pressure relief valve (flat topped mushroom thing at the back of the inlet manifold) might start to vent pressure at 12psi.