DLR Instal

[bman]

Can't find the info anywhere else....

Trying to instal the DRL module. Where are the wires and what color to splice into?

I have a Grote.
Pink to ignition in ON position....where is a good wire for this?

The others are easy enough to find.

Any help?
Thanks,

[delicat]

Don't know if this will help but since no one answered yet check out those posts.

http://www.delica.ca/forum/drl-the-hard-way-1045.html
http://www.delica.ca/forum/daytime-runn ... ts-27.html
http://www.delica.ca/forum/simple-and-c ... -1590.html

Enjoy the reading!

[JMK]

I just installed a Grote. I left the module in the cavity behind the low beams on the passenger side, there was lots of room, and ran the pink wire in through the firewall by loosening a few bolts inside. The blue connected to the park light, can't remember the color code as I isolated it using my multimeter. The yellow goes to you low beam, again I used my multimeter, it was red-something. I connected the pink to the power wire that they used to power up the Turbo Timer as it was easy to access. In your case you can find lots of wires in the steering column if you need to for this connection. It's pretty much imperative you have a multimeter or test light to make sure you've found the right wires to make your connections to. I blew some fuses in the Land Cruiser when I did it by not paying attnetion.

[thelazybrownfox]

Hey Bman
I mounted the module inside the van, on the side just above floor level, same height as the fuse panel. There is enough room to screw right in the side metal through the paper siding. The wires you are looking for are contained in the two wiring masses at the connectors within inches. If you separate the wires, with a screwdriver, the colours are apparent.

Don't cut the DRL wires short! Always better to have more wire than too little. Tuck the excess up above the fuse panel. Afterwards you'll think it was so simple.

Wayne

[raspeed]

"Buy a standard 12v automotive relay (same one as above is fine). Connect 86 to body ground, connect 85 to a switched 12v power source, connect 87 to a wire spliced into the low beam power wire (light blue) and connect 30 to battery + (NOT IGNITION UNLESS YOU DONT CARE IF YOUR HEADLIGHTS KEEP THE TRUCK RUNNING). You can mount the relay inside the headlight area or inside the car, your choice. Probably easiest to do it inside the vehicle and the wire that runs out to the low beam power wire can be spliced in before you get to the headlight connector, that way it is easy to disconnect the headlight if you ever remove it."


Where it says to connect to a "Switched 12V powers source" ... I understand this means a wire that is active when the ignition is on. ... but you do not want to use the ignition wire correct?

Would I just run the wire to the fuse box and attach it to a fuse extender?

Would attaching it to the power on the "lighter" work?

I don't quite understand this step as wouldn't the headlight itself be on a switched 12v power source?

If someone could elaborate I'd appreciate it.

[JMK]

Edit: Ooops, sorry I didn't pay attention, I thought this was about getting proper current to your headlights as per the other thread about "why are my headlights so dim?". Anyway disregard the part below pertaining to not attaching the 10 guage wire to the fuse box, but the rest about the ignition source is relevant to the DRL:

Don't attach to the fuse box, that would defeat the whole purpose of using 10 guage wire. You need to attach directly to the battery or alternator source. The spot that I used is the alternator terminal above the batteries where there is a convenient point to attach to, it is always live at +12V. Use an inline 30 amp ATC fuse assembly at that point. Then run the 10 guage out to the headlights (I went through down and under the chassis and then up into the headlight cavity). In the headlight cavity (I went to the passenger side) attach your relays. Use the old low beam wire and old high beam wires to trigger the relays to close the low beam or high beam circuits to the +12V power source, which is the 10 guage wire you just ran out. I then ran 3 more wires across the front of the van under the nose cowling for the other headlight for High (12 guage), Low (12 guage) and DRL (14 guage).

"Ignition" commonly means a circuit that is closed when switched (by the ignition key). You want to tap an ignition source for the DRL only (I use a switched lead going to my Turbo Timer beacuse it was convenient). You want to tap a live source for the high and low beam relays. In the steering column there are also 2 wires that are switched sources.

I don't quite understand this step as wouldn't the headlight itself be on a switched 12v power source?

See the other thread referred to above for diagrams on the best way to wire headlights. The power to them should not be through a switch, the switch should connect to a relay.

[Green1]

easiest place to mount the relay is inside the steering column as all the wiring you need is already there

[JMK]

I put the DRL module in the headlight cavity to avoid running wires through the firewall. I already had enough going on in the steering column for my remote starter install anyway. I guess it comes down to personal preferences, there are probably many locations that are suitable, pick the one that works best for you.

[Green1]

to avoid running wires through the firewall.

avoid running what wires? the headlight wiring is all up inside the steering column, use what's already there for DRL and you never need a wire longer than 5 inches...

[JMK]

My DRL is connected directly to the City Light module for my running lights which require some custom wiring. In my case I also liked working where there was more space and where I could minimize the length of the wire run. Just the way it worked out for me, like I said, the ultimate solution is whatever works for you.