Single -> Dual Piston brake upgrade

[jessef]

ADMIN: All Jesse's photos have gone missing, sorry.

I'm a fan of 'when I press on the brake pedal' my vehicle stops at a decent rate.

The stock single piston caliper's/pads the Delica's come with are 'o.k.' but my standards are somewhat high when it comes to braking.

Hence the upgrade. It's a direct bolt-on except two things :

1. shield has to be cut (top/bottom) about 2 inches to allow for the larger (longer) mounting bracket

2. brake line mounting plate onto the caliper is different. I just took it off. Doesn't make any difference.

I bought all the brakes gear
-Raybestos Professional Grade calipers (semi-loaded = comes with slider pins,mounting brackets, pad mounting clips)
-Raybestos Professional Grade ceramic pads
-Raybestos PG Calipers

All are spec'd for a 1992 Mitsubishi Montero Sport (any parts place in US/Canada will have them)

Jesse



ADMIN: Here's some pictures shamelessly stolen from http://dinoevo.de/brake-upgrade/ and http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20001, just in case those sites go away too.

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[jessef]

WOW! The Mitz front end is pretty beefy. Good to know also that parts off a Montero will fit.

So far, cross-matching part #'s and the parts themselves, almost everything I've come across along the drivetrain is the same as a Montero or Vanwagon.

Meaning you can source most of your drive train parts in NA.

The larger brakes makes a world of difference. Especially the modulation (what you feel at your foot when you brake).

[jessef]

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Part # Description QTY Price
------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAYPGD530C PGD530C CERAMIC BRAKE PAD 1 $45.99
RAYFRC10470 Brake Calipers 1 $56.99
RAYFRC10470 core charge 1 $30.00
RAYFRC10469 Brake Calipers 1 $56.99
RAYFRC10469 core charge 1 $30.00
RAY96687 96687 BRAKE ROTOR 1 $49.99
========================================================================
Subtotal $ 269.96
Tax $ 22.67
Shipping and Handling $ 0.00
Total Order Amount $ 292.63

Take $60 off for the core charges
Add $49.99 for one of the rotors I forgot to add on.

Total : $286.49 USD shipped to Blaine,WA (where I pick up all my parts)

[Jaz]

Thats an impressivly good deal for a brake upgrade like that. Hopefully you'll get a bit more power and modulation when the pads break in if they haven't already.

I seem to remember Bruce saying that L400 brakes are a good upgrade too - any idea how close they are to these ones, or how they rate?

I think I'll need to do this to my van when I get it... either that or pay more attention in traffic!

[jessef]

Thanks guys.

All the mod's I'm going to do in the near future, I will do up like this one.

The brakes I put on are from either application below :

1994+ Delica L400 (japanese)
1992+ Pajero (japanese)
1992+ Montero (north american)

Next up are the rears.

[Mystery Machine]

I seem to remember Bruce saying that L400 brakes are a good upgrade too - any idea how close they are to these ones, or how they rate?

You remember correct. I did mine back in February and have been enjoying the benefits ever since! Details HERE It was a bit of 'trial & error' because back then no one had done any sort of brake conversion, so we weren't totally sure how it would work?

As Jesse says, it's well worth doing because of the much improved braking and pedal feel (response) and I was lucky to have a set of calipers on an L400 I was parting out....so with the exception of a set of pads it was a free upgrade for me.

I can't believe that Jesse and I are the only ones who have done this upgrade? (here in the UK or in Canada?) seeing as it is so easy and cheap....especially when you look at the benefits. I just wish Superwinch manual hubs were as available here in the UK because I've been after a set for AGES!

Nice work there Jesse - keep it up....

[konadog]

Awesome - thanks for the detailed pictures. It looks like the hub change is pretty simple, no ? Just unbolt, slide out the old and slide in and bolt up the new... is it more complex than that? Thanks.
Scott, who suffers with a mild case of wrench phobia

[snelson]

terrific post - quick question. Simlilar to Kona's question but regarding the rotors, simple to get off on? Just a few bolts etc...?
Thanks
Steve

[jessef]

Awesome - thanks for the detailed pictures. It looks like the hub change is pretty simple, no ? Just unbolt, slide out the old and slide in and bolt up the new... is it more complex than that? Thanks.
Scott, who suffers with a mild case of wrench phobia

Manual hubs are easy.

1. unscrew auto (shiny) hub cap
2. Take out C-clip retainer (careful as it will pop out. You don't want to loose it)
3. Remove flat o-ring washer
4. Undo 8mm Allan bolts
5. Clean
6. Remove two allen bolts in the new Superwinch 'SW' hub (they come like that so they don't fall apart in the box)
7. Separate the two halves of the SW hub assembly (as in my pics)
8. Repeat in reverse steps 2-6
9. Put 2nd half (shiny cover) SW hub on with small (included) torx bolts. ** note. They are tiny and fragile. They do NOT need to be cranked on.

10. Enjoy being able to go up/down steep hills on 4Xlow with on the rear wheels engaged enabling you to turn the front wheels at full lock without binding anything (which happens in 4xlow/high with the transfercase engaged).

terrific post - quick question. Simlilar to Kona's question but regarding the rotors, simple to get off on? Just a few bolts etc...?
Thanks
Steve

Rotors are harder.

1. Steps 1-4 above
2. unscrew 4 phillips bolts that hold the retaining ring inside (see pic below) and removed
3. unscrew 2nd retaining clip (I used two screw drivers)
4. Remove caliper and caliper mounting brackets (17mm)
5. Slide hub/rotor off shaft (watch out for the bearings/seal)

6. on table remove 14mm bolts/nuts
7. press out the hub assembly from the rotor

8. reverse 1-5


The auto -> manual hubs are the easiest part. The hub assembly / rotor separation , new rotor / hub assembly press in / bolt in, press in new bearings/races/seals is the hardest part.

Tools needed .

8mm allan socket - allan bolts holding auto hub to hub assembly
10mm wrench - brake line
12/14 mm wrench and deep socket - caliper bolts / hub assembly bolts/nuts
17mm socket - caliper mounting bracket
small torx (forgot size) - SW hubs
philips driver - retaining ring on shaft
C-clip pliers - remove c-clips
cutoff wheel - cut shield to fit larger brackets

Vice or table/something to prop the rotor/hub assembly to remove it.

If you do it at a shop on a hoist with the proper tools, you're looking at 2hr per side.

Without a shop/hoist/proper tools (air tools), I'd look at a full day unless you know what you're doing. 1st side is always the longest.

Jesse

[Mystery Machine]

Manual hubs are easy.

1. unscrew auto (shiny) hub cap
2. Take out C-clip retainer (careful as it will pop out. You don't want to loose it)
3. Remove flat o-ring washer
4. unscrew 4 phillips bolts that hold the retaining ring inside (see pic below) and removed
5. unscrew 2nd retaining clip (I used two screw drivers)
6. Undo 8mm Allan bolts
7. Clean
8. Remove two allen bolts in the new Superwinch 'SW' hub (they come like that so they don't fall apart in the box)
9. Separate the two halves of the SW hub assembly (as in my pics)
10. Repeat in reverse steps 2-6
11. Put 2nd half (shiny cover) SW hub on with small (included) torx bolts. ** note. They are tiny and fragile. They do NOT need to be cranked on.

Hi Jesse,

Sorry if this is a daft question, but why do you need to remove the bearing lock plate and adjuster plate to fit the manual hubs?? The rest of your instruction makes perfect sense to me having removed the auto hubs too many times to mention....but surely the new hubs just replace the old ones, so the bearing is left untouched? Am I missing something obvious? (PLEASE put me out of my misery! )

Rotors are harder.

They sure are!!

Getting the hub/rotor assembly off is only about 10 mins more work than removing the auto hubs but it is splitting the rotor off the hub that can be tricky! BIG vice, cold chisels and a big hammer worked for me. Also those 14mm nuts/bolts were VERY tight! (removing the rotor/hub is why you were taking the bearings out surely?)

A tip to consider with the caliper.....use a zip-tie or something similar to hold the caliper up & out of the way until the end of the job. Makes life a lot easier. You can rest it on top of the upper wishbone/suspension arm....but holding it with a tie is always better. It won't drop onto your hand at that critical moment.

Before pulling the hub/rotor off, try and pull out the front wheel bearing and store it somewhere dust free. Try and protect the rear bearing and bearing seal as much as possible. If you knock or bend the rear bearing seal at all....replace it. It's not worth taking the risk because this will let water/muck in if less than perfect and you'll kill the bearings & races (been there done that!)

This job is a good time to clean out and re-pack the bearings with new grease....well worth doing.

Jesse is spot on with the timing....I probably took 4hrs to do one side the first time, but can do it in about 1.5 to 2 hours now (on my drive with basic tools too!)

Nothing really daunting about it, just take your time and don't lose your patience when trying to split the hub/rotor.

[jwfchase]

Jessie,

Now you can do this: !!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHRgVvAO8Pw

[delicat]

Bruce,

I'm sure I can hide a set of manual hubs in my luggage, coming your way July 26...
See you then!

David

[Mystery Machine]

Bruce,

I'm sure I can hide a set of manual hubs in my luggage, coming your way July 26...
See you then!

Sounds like a plan!

Do you want paying in advance?? let me know?

Also - thanks to Jesse and Jaz for the offers of getting me some hubs too. Sounds like David's idea might work out best though....no customs payment and a good excuse to meet a Canadian Delica fan on British soil :)

Thanks again guys....

[jessef]

Hi Jesse,

Sorry if this is a daft question, but why do you need to remove the bearing lock plate and adjuster plate to fit the manual hubs?? The rest of your instruction makes perfect sense to me having removed the auto hubs too many times to mention....but surely the new hubs just replace the old ones, so the bearing is left untouched? Am I missing something obvious? (PLEASE put me out of my misery! )

Bruce. It was late, I was typing...

Edited for the proper process.

[The Pinkfingers]

With manual hubs, when you lock them in 4x4, does the dash light still come on?