And now, marvel at the mighty, mighty, shiny D4BF:
(notes: alloy half-moon seal, water-cooled turbo pipes, new flywheel and clutch)
- back.JPG (597.39 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
(notes: primitive alternator tensioner, no AC pulley (but drilled for it), timing belt cover with access plug for tensioner.)
- front.JPG (387.48 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
(notes: water pump outlet is at a different angle. Alternator plug is different.)
- TurboSide.JPG (504.5 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
(notes: Dipstick. IP linkages.)
- IPside.JPG (339.64 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
To fit it to a Delica you will need to swap;
Glow plugs. The D4BF comes with 12V plugs which won't work with the super-quick 6V glow system.
Injection pump linkages. The Hyundai ones are basic, and the idle speed adjuster is on the back of the pump where it's difficult to access. The IP has all the correct holes for mounting the Mitsubishi linkages.
- IPlinkages.JPG (76.25 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
The main accelerator lever is attached to the pump's shaft with splines. I set the pump to idle speed, removed the Hyundai arm and installed the Mitsubishi one in the same position, more or less. I might be one spline out.
Injection pump plugs will plug into the existing wiring harness, but Hyundai have swapped some of the wire positions around, which is insane. You'll have to trace which wires go to which pins on your old IP and move the Hyundai pins to match. Yank out the coloured plastic tag in the middle of the plug, gently lever the black plastic locking tag away from the pin, and then swap the pins to the correct positions. Reinstall the coloured plastic tag.
- Plug1.JPG (44.2 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
- plug2.JPG (36.07 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
The tachometer sender black wire needs to be connected to the earth wire (the thick wire with the ring terminal). I pulled the sleeving back and made the join where it will never be seen.
- TachoEarth.JPG (48.64 KiB) Viewed 18903 times
Sump and oil pickup need to be swapped over. The Mitsubishi oil pickup is bolted to a special bolt on one of the bearing caps- you'll need to swap that bolt over to the new engine. Caution: the D4BF is supplied full of oil.
BEFORE INSTALLING THE NEW SUMP swap the dipstick position over. The block is drilled for both dipstick positions, simply knock the blanking plug out of the rear hole and reinstall it in the front.
- PickupOld.JPG (82.09 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
- PickupNew.JPG (62.19 KiB) Viewed 18987 times
You'll also need to swap the alternator oil drain pipe.
Other observations:
The steel inlet manifold pipe needed a tiny piece filed off one of the mounting tags to clear a new protrusion on the inlet manifold.
Swapping the flywheel for the flexplate was straightforward, they even use the same length bolts.
The alternator plug is a different style. Not an issue for me, as I'm keeping my old alternator (it's a 90A rather than the D4BF's 75A). Swap the alternator tensioners over.
Oil pressure light switch also has a different plug- I just swapped the switches.
Oil cooler lines are attached with banjo bolts, so there's no issues there (unlike on a Pajero engine).
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
). Fresh off the boat from Korea. Assembly marker on every screw and bolt. Exhaust ports have a light dusting of soot from the test run on the assembly line, everything else is spotless.