Best way to remove alternator?

[visotzky]

I need mine replaced or rebuilt. I had a look today, How do you get to it? Looks to tight to move a wrench. Any advice is welcome.

[jessef]

Someone holding it from the top while the 2nd person grabs it from underneath.

It is a real pain in the arse, believe me.

Not impossible, but difficult the first time unless you get lucky and get it right.

Like a jigsaw puzzle. There's a right way and 100 wrong ways to do it.

Only advice I can give is that I would have someone holding it from above. It's heavy and when you get it past the oil pipe, it will drop down like a rock.

[Adam]

I managed to remove and replace it myself, but it is a tight fit and there was a lot of cursing.

[visotzky]

Thanks I'll do that. How does one get to the adjustment bolt?from above or below?

[Adam]

I did everything from below.

[Green1]

adjustment bolt is best accessed through a rubber flap in the driver's side wheel well, easiest to use a flexible head flat-ratcheting wrench.

[mararmeisto]

Regardless of how you get at the alternator - from the top, underneath, through the wheel well - it's best to let the engine cool down some, otherwise you will come to really hate the turbo and it's location.

I drove the Moon Machine to CCAutos when I wanted my alternator replaced: it sat for three hours, they worked on it for only one! Apparently it's a quick job (when you know what you're doing and when the engine is cool). Might be best to PM Glen for some pointers.

[visotzky]

Thanks,What size is the nut? I'll need to borrow a flex wrench. I'm doing it tomorrow .
Cheers
Val

[visotzky]

whew!! got it,not fun in the rain! Ok so any secrets to get back in? Also my van(exeed) has two batteries and a 75 amp alternator, should i get a 90 amp or is 75 good enough?

[Details Monster]

Just finished getting the alternator out of my Super Exceed and thought I would post what I learned...
1. Small hands and thin arms really help; this baby is really tucked away and accessing the bolts are a pain.
2. Rather than disconnect all the hoses going to the oil pump; I opted to remove it from the back of the alternator. There are three bolts that hold it on (and two shorter bolts that hold the pump together; leave those two alone!). You will need to remove the big hose that returns to the oil pan as later it will get in the way when removing the alternator. Also, when trying to move the pump out of the way so that I could get the alternator out, I was thinking it may have been easier if I had also removed the braided hose that goes up to the oil filter.
3. Nut and bolt holding the alternator in are 12mm.
4. Really hard to get at the top bolt that holds the belt tension arm to the block.
5. Adjusting the belt tension is going to be a real pain; I have a 1/4 drive ratchet and a shallow 12mm socket that barely fit up there.
6. The nut holding the output wire is 10mm. Unfortunately mine was seized on and when I would turn it the mounting bolt would turn with it. Tried anti-seize oil but it did not help. I was able to rig up a strong wire to hold the wire lug from rotating which kept the bolt from rotating enough to brake the nut free. This saved the day!!

Removal steps (wish I would have had this list to start):

1a. Disconnect negative terminal on battery.
1b. Remove skid pan.
2. Clean up grim.
3. Disconnect wires.
4. Remove big hose going to oil pan (a small amount of oil while drip out of the pump).
5. Remove braided hose going to oil filter from pump (I did not do this and oil from the filter may drain out this hose).
6. Remove three bolts (8mm) holding pump to alternator (leave pump in place for now).
7. Remove upper bolt (12mm) that attaches tension adjustment arm to frame (Good Luck!). I used a ratchet and a 2 inch extension which allowed the ratchet to clear the pulleys and I was able to move the ratchet up in the area where the fan is. There is a radiator hose that really is in the way for getting the socket on the bolt.
8. Remove the nut (12mm) on the lower pivot bolt; push bolt out.
9. Slide oil pump of the back of the alternator and tuck it up out of the way (easier said than done).
10. Wiggle alternator off the pivot and position it so that you access the tension adjustment bolt.
11. Remove the tension adjustment bolt that holds on the arm so that it is easier to get the alternator out.
12. Move alternator into various positions until you figure out how to get it out.

Hope this helps. Can't wait to put the rebuilt alternator in (NOT!).

Alternate Removal steps (from my Third R & R 6/9/2012)

1. Disconnect negative terminal on battery.
2. Remove fan shroud.
3. Remove fan (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove upper bolt (12mm) that attaches tension adjustment arm to engine. (I used a ratchet and a 2 inch extension which allowed the ratchet to clear the pulleys and I was able to move the ratchet up in the area where the fan is.)
5. Remove the bolt (12mm) that attaches the tension adjustment to the alternator. The tension adjustment arm will now be free. (Note: remove this bolt is a bit of a pain as there is a radiator hose that really is in the way for getting the socket on the bolt.)
6. Remove skid pan.
7. Disconnect wires from alternator.
8. Remove big hose going to oil pan (a small amount of oil while drip out of the pump).
9. Remove braided hose going to oil filter from pump (a fair amount of oil will drip from the hose but it will eventually stop).
10. Remove three bolts (8mm) holding oil pump to alternator; slide oil pump of the back of the alternator and tuck it up out of the way (oil will come from between the pump and alternator).
11. Remove the nut (12mm) on the lower pivot bolt; push bolt out.
12. Wiggle alternator off the pivot and you should be able to guide it out quite easily.

[Erebus]

Just finished getting the alternator out of my Super Exceed and thought I would post what I learned...

Now I'll bitch and complain. Couldn't you have posted this on Monday? I took my Deli in on Tuesday to (amongst other things) have the alternator rebuilt. I printed all the instructions I could find, but this didn't show up in time to make it. Now I'll have to send it separately. Grumble grumble.

Really, though, thanks for these details. It should make the garage's life easier. Ya, I'm to lazy and/or not masochistic enough to do it myself.

[Details Monster]

Following up... The rebuit alternator cost more than I had anticipated ($400 with tax). Didn't have much choice since I live on the Sunshine Coast and had to get it sent into Vancouver. Pleased with the work though. The alternator looks like new. When I opened the box, I was thinking "Is this the same alternator?. Anyway, install went much fast than the removal.

[patty]

why are so many peoples alternators going? or are most of you just replacing is to get more power, a bigger one?

[jessef]

Believe it or not, alternators are at the top for most common electrical failure/replacement in vehicles. New and old.

The alternator itself, is by far a good device. It's the voltage regulators that usually go first.

On the Delica's/Pajero's, the alternator is in a bad spot. I don't know what the designer was smoking but it's not in a good position.

It's so low that any grim/wet/dirt gets stuffed in there and usually causes the brushes to go, the bearings to fail and the voltage regulator to fry.

As impossible as it sounds, I'm looking to relocate the alternator with a 120A one up on the side.

[Todd64]

Ya on my old Trooper the alt was on the bottom. DOH! Now on my Ru it's on top where it should be.