torsion bar/camber change

[norisan]

About a month ago I adjusted the left torsion bar to level the van side to side, then took it in for a wheel alignment. Two weeks later I decided I wanted to raise the front of the van to remove the nose down attitude, this required re indexing the torsion bars. Thinking I may need another wheel alignment afterwards, I checked the camber beforehand with an angle gauge and it read 0 degrees, which according to the print out is where the garage set it. Many adjustments later I was finally satisfied with the front of the van sitting 1" higher than previously. Interesting thing was, when I rechecked the camber reading using the same angle gauge and same reference point, the hub, it was unchanged, still sitting at 0 degrees. Anyone have a similar experience?

[JMK]

How has the handling been effected since the change, is it a noticably better ride now?

[norisan]

There is a huge improvement in the ride - it doesn't feel any firmer to me, but it no longer hits the stops going over bumps, so the overall impression is of a much smoother and quieter ride. If I recall there was only about 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance between the stop and suspension arm, so even a minor pot hole would be quite jarring as it was bouncing off the stops all the time. I didn't measure it, but i'm guessing the clearance is now about 2" - translated to movement at the wheel of probably about 3 - 4 inches.

[JMK]

Thanks,

I remember reading in this forum a year ago that it could make a signficant difference, so when I changed my shocks, and that didn't make a huge difference, I crawled under and had a look. I had a bit of trouble figuring out exactly how it was done, so I gave up at the time. I think I need to reconsider it however. Did you use the 'how to' on this forum?

[norisan]

I believe I got the info from the UK forum, but I'll check that and get back to you. Two things; it really helps if you can manufacture a long 17mm socket, otherwise you'll be spending a lot of time removing and re installing the nuts. The passenger side is a real pain to work on, I was replacing the rear U joint on the front drive shaft so removed the whole shaft - which gave a lot more room to work, and I think I would do this even if I wasn't replacing the joint - if you take a peek underneath I think you'll see why. You need to drain some oil from the transfer case other wise when you pull the shaft oil will run out - don't ask how I found this out! I'm guessing it was about two liters.

[norisan]

update: just search "indexing" on this site,there is a really good explanation.

[Luna-Sea]

Those newer ratchet wrenches (open wrench one end and racheting closed on the other)
are helpful.

Right on!

[cinjay]

I just re indexed mine as well. I can attest to the much improved ride. Before the re indexing going over those bumps on a main road where the side roads meets it I would bottom out badly Now I roll over those G outs with much more confidence. My alignment was out before hand, so I just went ahead and did it. I am very happy I did. Now I just have to install those upper ball joints so I can get that alignment done