what grit sandpaper do I use to remove paint bubbles/rust

[snelson]

I'm hoping to tackle removing the rust bubbles from my rear window.
I have an angle grinder, but don't know what grit sand paper I should be using to get started.....
anyone with experience care to share?

Basically grind/sand away all surface bubbles and rust, fill with bondo type material, sand smooth then repaint - no?

Cheers all
Steve

[Firesong]

Before you get into grinding.
Get some of that 3m red pad, it's like a dish washing
pot scrubber. It will take some of that rust off if it's
more surface rust. Might save you some work and you
will only have to grind down the places that need it.
If I remember right you can get that stuff in a thick
pad at Can Tire too.

FS

[snelson]

Hmm ok - thanks Fire - I'll look into that.

Having never done this type of job before I kinda thought the angle grinder was too big of a tool for this sort of project.

I just found a utoob vid showing some nice little 3M pads that you can use with a power drill - seems like they'd work nicely. Trying to find a little all-in-one kit on ebay...that would be ideal.

I have the 3 typical spots showing now on the back and am keen to get at them. That's the one problem with the white Delis - rust shows up big time.

Not too sure about removing the back window, I know there's a post on here with some instructions, but I remember them being a little bit vague still.

I'm going to take lots of pics, and if it all works out post a detailed 'how-to'.

[Green1]

Depends how severe it is, the angle grinder is appropriate for big jobs, and the red pad for small ones, and everything in between for jobs in between.
On my L300 I had one of the typical rust spots near the sunroof, rusted through, bubbling, and about 3 inches long by a half inch wide. on that one I used a dremel to grind it all out (and make a nice hole...) then when all I could see was shiny metal I sprayed rustproofing inside, and used long-strand fibreglass filler to patch it, followed by lots of sanding of ever decreasing coarseness, and then one of the worst painting jobs I've ever done... (ok, I was proud of the patch... but apparently I have a long way to go on my painting technique...)
For some of the really small surface spots I ended up just buffing them out with a good rag (and some elbow grease) and a dab of touch up paint.

without seeing how bad it is, it's hard to say how aggressive you need to be.

[snelson]

Pretty decent 3M how to video....

http://solutions.3mcanada.ca/3MContentR ... =ImageFile

[jwfchase]

snelson, the more you can post on this the better... I get to take on the dreaded roof bubbles soon...

[fear4fun]

Ahhh, roof bubbles....I've got a small patch I want to stop in its tracks. A how to would be much appreciated. I was simply going to take it in, but if I could prep it, that could save some precious coin!

[FalcoColumbarius]

• Tools: Small block of wood, hand, elbow grease.
• Wet & dry paper: Depending how bad it is ~ 150/180grit, graduating to 320, to 400 (think consistently smooth).
  ~ you shouldn't need bondo by the way you have described the situation.
• White anti-rust primer in a spray bomb (wear a respirator) ~ zero rust is a good product.
• More sand paper. 600 wet & dry. Use wet in small circular motions.
• When it comes to the top coat: There is no one white. Between your legs when you sit in the driver's seat you will find a flap in the carpet. Behind said carpet is a plaque that has the paint codes. See if there is an auto paint supplier in your city/town called "White & Peters". They will have the colour for the code in your wagon.
• By the way, don't forget to mask your window off, green tape will work ~ blue is better. Rubber must be clean for tape to do it's job. Ideally you ought to remove the rubber to get to the rust underneath it.
• Once you have the white sprayed over the primer (two coats, or more ~ sanding between coats 1000, wet & dry) you need to sand it into the existing white on the tailgate, graduating from 1000 to 1200 to 1500 to 2000 wet & dry (wet) in slightly larger areas as you move from grit to grit. Remember, we are not painting a big area. One option to consider is taking a lemon and making lemonade ~ you could take some black paint and paint a creative design over the new primer, like a couple of black lightning bolts coming off the window...... just a thought.
• Cutting wax over any small areas that may need tweaking. Do a proper wax job to finish the job on the complete tailgate to Make it consistent.
• A body shop would likely paint the tailgate, removing any "furniture" such as the DELICA plate, &c., masking the rest of the vehicle from any overspray.

I would likely take it to a shop and get them to do it. They have all the tools and set up. Shopping around for prices never hurt. Avoid breathing atomised paint ~ it's not good for you. Do not point the spray bomb at your face, especially when your finger is on the trigger. Read the directions and heed the warnings.

Falco.

[snelson]

Thanks for the details Falco and the other tips guys! All much appreciated.

I'm definitely going to remove the rear window and seal first - in fact that's probably the task that I'm most concerened about. Prying out the rubber from the inside-out, so the window comes out - without smashing it of course

The other interesting part is that I no longer have a garage, so this will all be done out in the back lane - so just gathering tools and info for now and waiting for a hot sunny day.

If anyone has any detailed knowledge/tips on removing the back window - any tips other than "pry the rubber out a little bit at a time" - it would be appreciated. I'm assuming it's best to start at the top of the rubber from the inside, prying from the centre out to each side?

The one other post I found made mention of running a soapy wire/string along the edge when reinstalling the window - again - any detailed knowledge tips for this part much appreciated as well. I didn't quite understand this " soapy wire" part.


**EDIT**
Ok, on second read of this older post, I think I understand now - the soapy string is just used to pull the inside lip back over the inside metal 'frame'.
I get it now - I'm a little slow sometimes, just like my Deli.
http://www.delica.ca/forum/rear-window- ... indow+rust

[Green1]

the biggest tip I have for removing the rear window, is don't do it alone, get someone else to hold it while you pry things, it is very difficult for one person to do both without dropping the window.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Tip: Don't paint in direct sunlight, work in the shade or on an overcast day and make sure the surface is not really hot (or cold) ~ not good for the paint. Another thing to beware of when you are painting outside is travelling dust.

Falco.

[Artacoma]

I had good results taking the fuel filler door off and bringing it in to Lordco to scan the color, it was a great match and cost around $20 I think for a spray bomb full. X2 what Falco said about grits and steps.