most essential mods?

[pattonmaclean]

Hi,

I will pick up my van from Mardy next Sunday June 20 before heading home. i might spend a day or two around Vancouver to get some work done.

It has dual batteries, and a block heater, and will have been fully serviced by Mardy's shop.

I'm seeking advice on work that I should get done before hitting the road that will improve economy/ longevity/ performance in the long run. It's my first vehicle and though i read a lot, i don't have much experience with cars other than changing fluids and filters.

I think a pyro/boost gauge is important, and a stereo, EGT (?) blanking plate, and wiring for a trailer (it has a hitch receiver and I will be using it to pull three different trailers. Tardisdeli has suggested an inverter. A couple of diesel guys i know back home have suggested a larger (21/2" ) exhaust.

It'll see a lot of use camping and highway/ gravel road driving.

I don't have unlimited funds, so I'm interested in bang for buck mods.

Oh yeah, any leads on a good simple stereo with radio/ CD, USB and maybe bluetooth? I might as well replace the one that's in there and enjoy the CBC on the drive home.


thanks,

Patton

[jessef]

L300 or L400 ?

[mararmeisto]

Start with the things that make a difference and then work towards the niceties.

First: trailer wiring (use a powered one to save your van); pyrometer (to save your engine); power inverter and extra battery (isolated with a solenoid switch).

Second: the stereo (if it has cassette/cd then you can probably wait a bit), the blanking plate (helps keep the engine temps down by not routing as much hot exhaust back into the turbo), the bigger exhaust.

If you have an L300, definitely the pyrometer. Maybe not so crucial with the L400.

Just my nickel's worth...

[pattonmaclean]

oops. Thanks jfarsang!

SWB 1995 L400 spacegear.


http://www.delica.ca/forum/95-delica-l4 ... -7346.html


marameisto, i'm not sure what you mean by "(use a powered one to save your van)"

can you clarify?

thanks.

[mararmeisto]

marameisto, i'm not sure what you mean by "(use a powered one to save your van)"

There are two types of signal converters for trailer lighting: those that draw on the signal lights to power the trailer lights, and those that have a feed directly from the battery to power the trailer lights.

The first kind become a part of the van's turn signal circuit, increasing the current draw on that circuit. If there is a problem in the trailer's wiring, it will also affect the van's circuit because there is no electrical isolation between the trailer and the van.

The second converter is powered from the battery and only uses the turn signal circuit as 'switch' to activate the appropriate signal for the trailer. The power for the trailer light comes from the converter, not from the van's turn signal circuit. If there is a problem in the trailer's wiring, it won't affect the van because the converter is electrically isolating the two circuits.

All of this is important, especially of late, for those who have been having weird electrical problems with their vans: signal left and the headlights flash; turn on the radio and the dash lights go out; and there was another one, but I can't remember what it was except that it wasn't right. Problem in all three: dead trailer light converter - probably a non-powered one from the descriptions. Snipped out of the circuit, the van was right as rain again.

Now the L400 has a better electrical circuit than the L300 because of its use of solenoids and relays, but it's still a good idea to get a powered signal converter. An RV shop will know what you need, and although it may cost a little more, it'll be better for your van. Don't bother with Canadian Tire because they either won't have one or they won't have the correct one, and unless you can find the stock number yourself, they won't be able to find one even if they do have it.

Here's a descriptive page on why these modules are used: http://www.ontheball.com/taillight_conv ... 20ModuLite

[pattonmaclean]

Enormously helpful. Thanks, Paul.

[RichD]

pyrometer (to save your engine)

YES

power inverter and extra battery (isolated with a solenoid switch).

My advice is start by shopping out most of your power needs in 12V. Your requirements for inverter (and especially wire and fuse sizing) will be reduced greatly as will the co$t.

Most of the inverters I'm seeing in Delicas are oversized for the alternator in the truck, and there is no starter isolation so people are going through inverters like crazy. I'm covering this in a How To post to follow. I'll try to remember to drop a backlink in this post.

the blanking plate (helps keep the engine temps down by not routing as much hot exhaust back into the turbo), the bigger exhaust.

both on my to do list, and agreed.