Glow plug test

[Canadaeh]

I replaced the Injection Pump Seal.

Now I am ready to go, but no luck in starting.

See thread
http://www.delica.ca/forum/rough-start- ... -8806.html

I thought I would recheck everything just to eliminate my doubts.

Started with glow plugs. Tested to see if there was power cycled to the glow plugs at the turn of the key. Yes 12v until the 'click' sound at 10 seconds then nothing. Seems normal.

Took out the plugs one at a time.
Connected Ohm meter red lead to post, black lead to threaded end that sits in the block.
Ohm meter shows resistance on all but one.

Went a step further and hooked up the jumper cables to the battery and then to the loose glow plugs. Red on threaded end that sits in the block, black to post. Wait ten seconds. Disconnect. No heat. When I say no heat I mean cold as the concrete floor.
All were cold with no change, except one which became warm like if you feel the top of your computer monitor but by no means was there any "glow" to the plug.

Could this be the root of my problem?

The ends of the plugs looked a little swollen, pitted and rough.

I welcome your thoughts.

Mike

[jessef]

Your plug testing is accurate.

I take a wire with an alligator clip attached to the top threaded section of the glowplug/the other end to the positive terminal or 12v source and put the plug on the negative battery terminal/ground.

The plug tip should glow red hot and be extremely burning hot in 2-3 seconds.

If it stays cold, it's dead.

Sounds like yours. Replace them.

[lopar]

I do not know if would work, have not tried it yet (but will)............ try cycling the glow plugs 2-3 times all hooked up........ use a temp gun and see if they have warmed up.......
I will be doing similar testing hopefully next weekend, got new plugs and a new solid copper glow plug rail.
Another culprit could be a corroded ground return wire off the block, if this has developed some resistance as a result of corrosion it will effect the performance of the plugs. Would still show 12V at the plugs if it was a problem, check for voltage from the return line at the block(while glow plugs on), to battery ground, if any voltage shows up, it may be an issue.

just the old two cents

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

Your plug testing is accurate.

I take a wire with an alligator clip attached to the top threaded section of the glowplug/the other end to the positive terminal or 12v source and put the plug on the negative battery terminal/ground.

The plug tip should glow red hot and be extremely burning hot in 2-3 seconds.

If it stays cold, it's dead.

Sounds like yours. Replace them.

Replace your glow plugs as jfarsang said.
We supply them at $120 for set of 4 ( OEM 11V ).

Steven

[jessef]

There are many ways to test a glowplug but nothing beats the simple old fashioned and 100% true way.

Remove the glowplugs and visually test to see if the tips are scorching red hot after 2-3 seconds (max). If it takes them longer to glow red/get hot or are just warm, they are bad and need to be replaced.

I have yet to experience a bad 'true' OEM Mitsubishi 'Green top' glowplug go bad.

I have experience ALL other glowplugs go bad, some sooner than later.

The single downside to the OEM Mitsu greentops is cost. They are pricey.

[MardyDelica]

Hi, mike,
the easy way is to take it out but make sure to take your time.
as this glow plug tendency is to break very hard to take it out when it break
now as per testing it just do it manualy putting the ground to the side & the center tip for the positive.
you mention you take the injection pump out & change the front shaft seal.
i guess your timing is off even you mark it when you take it out.
i dont know if before you take the injection pump out you pre set the timing thru the engine & the injection pump
& when you make this mistake , well hard to say you start from the scrath again.
sorry to say this.
this is hard to say.
hope this help cheers;
Mardy