IP work. now won't run

joebillhill · Post by **joebillhill** » Tue Apr 21, 2015 11:12 pm

So this afternoon I attempted to fix my leaky ip seal based on the instructions from the wiki here. Everything was apparently fine, things came out and were put back in the same spot. But when I went to fire it up again it will crank but won't fire. ..
Here is a list of things that I have troubleshot and things that were not perfectly executed in the process:

If I floored the gas is would intermittently try to catch but couldn't
When it wouldn't fire I decided to try and bleed the injectors to no avail.
My fuel pump works (pumps fuel to and through the ip)
Loosening one of the injector lines at the back of the pump and cranking the engine didn't produce any fuel

When taking things off to gain access to the bolts I almost took the very top of the ip off (where the boost live goes into). I removed all 4 bolts and was sliding it apart, moved it a mm, decided against it and put it all back together.
When taking the throttle cable (or the one with the red accordion sleeve) I didn't mark where the nuts on it were, messed around with it to try an see if it would fix my idle problem, decided to wait on it and put them back in the ballpark of where I thought they were.
It was not an easy thing to coax the throttle shaft out of and back in the top plate so using pliers it may have rotated.

Also when trying to crack the injectors one of the battery terminals sparked but never again

Any ideas would be appreciated and if my disorganized ramblings need clarification let me know.

Thanks in advance

joebillhill · Post by **joebillhill** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:13 am

So an update.
I started again and took it all apart and put it all back together. It runs, but only if I have the pedal mashed to the floor. If I let up at all it dies.
Hopefully that sparks a lightbulb?

joebillhill · Post by **joebillhill** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 3:53 pm

And another update. Adjusting the throttle shaft adjuster through trial and error (since I neglected to mark it's original position) has got her running on her own again!
If anyone has any input on that method of adjustment I'm all ears since I know diddly about the injector pump adjustments and definitely do not want to cause serious harm down the road.

vtin · Post by **vtin** » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:54 am

You need to give more info on how it's running. Describe what kind of smoke, or no smoke, lumpy or smooth etc. If you can make a video.

The throttle cable should be adjusted so that your throttle lever rests on the idle stop when the throttle pedal is at rest. Then when the pedal is floored, you want the throttle lever to be barely touching the full throttle stop. Put a couple mm of slack in the the cable. That will work if you didn't touch the throttle lever limiters.

vtin · Post by **vtin** » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:21 am

Are you 100% sure that you timed the fuel pump gear exactly how it was prior? Reading your description it might be a tooth retarded. When you do get it to run, is there a tonne of white/light blue smoke?

I'm also not exactly sure about what you mean when you say you took the top of the pump apart. Are you referring to the boost commentator top plate? Looks like this:

If you replaced everything it would have no effect on running. It's just a plate that covers and seals the compensator diaphragm.

joebillhill · Post by **joebillhill** » Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:09 am

I took the top of the injector pump off where the 4 Allen bolts held it in place. The boost compensator chamber still intact. (There's a DIY in the wiki to clarify)
I left the bottom of the pump in place so there was no need to mess with the timing belt or injector gear
What I was talking about was the throttle shaft which has to be pushed down through the top part of the pump housing to get the housing removed. Since I didn't mark where it's position was i definitely didn't put it back to the exact same spot.
That's what was causing me trouble, as the throttle shaft was adjusted to where there wasn't enough fuel being pumped through. Though trial and error I have it back to a position where it idles nicely and no blue or white smoke except on a cold start (which I think is another can of worms I get to dive into at some point

)

vtin · Post by **vtin** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:33 pm

I see what you mean now. Unfortunately I've never removed the throttle shaft on these pumps and don't know how to put it back to origin. What's more unfortunate is that there is not service literature available to the common Joe like you and I. I'm attaching a photo of how the throttle is supposed to look on the inside just for reference. I think you're on the right track to resetting it though... I would do the same, just get a feeling for how it runs (idle RPM to 4500 RPM) and adjust until you're happy.

joebillhill · Post by **joebillhill** » Fri May 01, 2015 1:34 pm

Yeah it is unfortunate that there is no manual for the IP. Though with my limited mechanical skills coupled with the ability to dive very deeply very quickly into a can of worms once its opened, it might be a good deterrent to mess with the pump.
Thanks for the reference. I was able to get everything back together and idling nicely last week (minus a weird quirk where it will occasionally skyrocket up to 1000-1100 rpm when I'm parked and cooling it down. The idle also rises when I turn the lights off which I don't know if that's a normal thing...more research to be done!

Post by **FalcoColumbarius** » Sat May 02, 2015 8:57 pm

joebillhill wrote:Yeah it is unfortunate that there is no manual for the IP. ...

Your IP is a Robert Bosch VE Type Distributor Pump, made by Zexel.
Here's a link to a site that describes it:
http://mebonty.monobasin.net/vepump.html
Have you checked in "L300 Dedicated Category Reference Forum/L300 Shop Manual Downloads/L-300 Fuel Delivery Systems Manual"? It doesn't have the breakdown of the IP itself but it's worth looking at.

Falco.

joebillhill · Post by **joebillhill** » Fri May 08, 2015 7:03 pm

This is probably a long shot but I'll throw it out there anyways. Are the pumps calibrated relatively the same? If so the problem I'm having right now is I'm getting black smoke under relatively low load. So if it would work, of anyone could take a picture of their throttle shaft screw for a reference since that's what I accidentally monkeys with I would appreciate it.
Edit: throttle shaft adjustment screw not fuel adjustment screw

deli cinq · Post by **deli cinq** » Fri Aug 24, 2018 10:36 am

joebillhill wrote:\(minus a weird quirk where it will occasionally skyrocket up to 1000-1100 rpm when I'm parked and cooling it down. The idle also rises when I turn the lights off which I don't know if that's a normal thing...more research to be done!

i currently have this same issue and not sure the cause.

Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club