...And it drives!
First impressions: it idles really smoothly, and it's much quieter than the old engine. Something to do with the pistons going up and down rather than side to side I think
. The diesel clatter stands out as the loudest noise it makes, where before it was about as loud as the general mechanical cacophony.
It's been a long time since I drove a stock L300, so I don't know if it's more powerful or not. As it was supplied it made 8psi, produced no exhaust smoke *at all*, and the lowest air:fuel ratio I saw was 25:1.
Of course I'm fixing all that. I'm up to 17psi, 18:1 AFR, and still only a touch of smoke on acceleration, and it's *much* better. I'll keep working on it.
UPDATE: The new engine should run well out of the crate, but because I had to swap the accelerator linkage over it needed a bit of tuning. There's a tuning guide here http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=19015 but first, some pictures of how to adjust the linkage if you're a spline or two out:
When installing the D4BF, the Hyundai accelerator lever was swapped for the Mitsubishi lever, and it can be tricky to install it with the splines aligned properly. Here are my notes from adjusting the accelerator lever on its splines:
Remove the Hyundai idle speed screw- it's the horizontal screw on the engine side of the injection pump near the top, the accelerator lever will touch it when its at idle. We're using the Mitsubishi idle screw (which is far more conveniently situated at the front) so we don't need the Hyundai one.
- IdleScrewDelete.JPG (76.82 KiB) Viewed 10107 times
- IdleScrewDelete2.JPG (74.41 KiB) Viewed 10107 times
Remove TPS, boot (if fitted), and plastic link nubbin:
- RemovingTPS.jpg (68.08 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
- UnderTPS.jpg (59.89 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
- LinkNubbin.jpg (58.42 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
Note where the upper return spring is hooked to the IP body.
(Also note the lower return spring's attachment points. It shouldn't come unhooked, but if it does it's good to know how to reinstall it.)
- SpringHook.jpg (73.88 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
Unhook the return spring from the drum to release the tension.
- UnhookSpring.jpg (70.41 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
Here's what you're left with: an un-tensioned return spring, and an idle screw that's too long.
TAKE NOTE of the alignment of the black splined shaft and the accelerator lever so you can undo any changes if needed.
- Original idle.jpg (82.81 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
Undo the 10mm nut and remove the spring, drum, and plastic spacer thingy but
BEWARE; the accelerator lever might try and pop up off the splined shaft. Don't let it. At this point you might want to mark the lever with a sharpie to record its alignment with the splined shaft.
- Removespring.jpg (84.7 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
While holding the accelerator in the original idle position (and holding it down so it doesn't pop off the splines), wind the idle screw back until it's about 10mm long.
- Reposition.jpg (71.04 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
Lift the accelerator lever up just enough to disengage it from the splines. The lower return spring is still in place, so it will be fighting you. Turn the lever until it meets the idle screw, and push it down to re-engage the splined shaft. The splined shaft should not have turned during this operation.
(Note that in these pictures, I haven't actually changed the lever's position on the splines, which is why the shaft has turned since the previous picture) The position of the splines might not let you line the lever up perfectly- just get it close, and adjust the idle speed screw later to correct the idle.
- Repositioned.jpg (80.2 KiB) Viewed 10063 times
While still holding the lever down, reinstall the upper return spring and drum, and the 10mm nut. Be sure the return spring's lower hook is in place around the full speed screw- it's a pain to reposition once the nut is on.
Re-engage the return spring's hook with the drum, start the engine, and adjust the idle. Then re-install the TPS.
Start the engine and, if you're lucky, it should idle at 750rpm. If you're a spline or two out, just move the lever again.
Reconnect the accelerator cable- you will need to adjust it so there's free play when the engine's idling. This might be tricky and require bending brackets or finding a longer cable. Same with the kickdown cable- it might take a bit of creative hammering to get the bracket in the right place, and you might have to adjust the length of the linkage to achieve the correct stroke and free play. IF YOU RUN OUT OF ADJUSTMENT on a cable or linkage, you can always turn the accelerator lever back one spline so you can make your idle speed screw longer, and the cable/linkage will be able to reach without having to be at the extreme of its adjustment range.
- Accel.Cable.jpg (140.58 KiB) Viewed 10167 times
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.