What's the skinny on Glow Plugs?

[djelica]

I have a dead glow plug. I replaced all 4 plugs this winter when 3 of then were dead. I put in some German ones I got through a convoluted (and expensive) deal.

With three still going I have some time to find a better source and the best plug before the cold hits, so what are people running and how is it going?

Does anyone know who sells the NGK CY55? I understand this is the same as the CY05 that NGK makes for OEM Mits but is way cheaper. Don't know if they sell them in Canada or not.

I see Assiniboine sells Hyundai OEM Part for both the 300 and 400. Any comments on these.

I also read that Blueprint do not last long. Any experience? I’m looking for what’s going to work the best and last the longest.

Thanks for any replies.

djelica

[MardyDelica]

hi,
the hyundai L300 glow plug is not the same as the L400 glow plug.
some people saying the hyundai L300 is the same.
but its not true. hyundai glow plug only comes with 12 volts not 11 volt for L400 as its the orginal glow plug
so its totally different.
as per glow plug brand.ngk or any japan made could make it work. original is more expensive but last long.
if you encounter more problem that the glow plug goes all the time , you need to check the system if any problem occur.
hope this help cheers;
Mardy

[djelica]

Thanks for the comments Mardy.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the system.

The bad plug seems to have essentially broken as the top portion has come out of the unit. I may have over tightened it and stripped it accidently.

Anyway, what do you suggest for plugs?

Do you sell any?

Thanks,

Darren

[MardyDelica]

yes, pls phone me
cheers;
Mardy

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

Mardy said.

the hyundai L300 glow plug is not the same as the L400 glow plug.
some people saying the hyundai L300 is the same.
but its not true. hyundai glow plug only comes with 12 volts not 11 volt for L400 as its the orginal glow plug
so its totally different.

Mardy, you got the wrong idea.
Our selling Hyundai OEM glow plugs are all 11V, not 12V.

Delica L300 (pre 1991) has 'Auto Glow Plug System' which uses 12V glow plugs with one relay.

Delica L300 (1991 - 1993) has 'Super Quick Glow Plug System' which was designed to shorten the glow plug warm up time. To shorten the duration, they used 6.2V glow plugs (on glow plug, it is written 6.2V [12V]) rather than 12V ones that they used earlier, with two relays (one for before-start and the other for after-start to prevent the burnout of glow plugs) and a dropping resistor. The main disadvantage of this system is that glow plugs were much easier to burn out because of the voltage. Hence, glow plugs needed to be replaced earlier than anticipated. Imagine the second relay is dead. That means your glow plugs will fail soon from overheating.

Delica L300 (post 1993) has 'Self Regulating Glow Plug System' which uses 11V glow plugs with one relay. If you understand what is written above, you will understand why Mitsubishi abandoned 6.2V glow plug system with two relays.

Delica L400 is the same as Delica L300 (post 1993) - 11V.

Original Mitsubishi OEM glow plugs cost you $360 ( set of 4 ) plus shipping and dealer margin.
That means all glow plugs supplied in Vancouver around $140-180 are not OEM, just cheap AF products_ bad quality, bigger dealer margin.
Our hyundai parts are completely OEM, best quality/best price ever.
http://www.rs-import.ca/shop/step1.php?number=654

Steven

[djelica]

I need my ride to start when it's really cold and I have no where to plug it in.

I need glow plugs I can depend on for as long as possible. If the OEMs are $360 +, but will last five + years, then they would seem to be an OK deal to me.

The van came with new cheap after markets and lasted less than 4 months so I don't know the cost. I knew the German ones are still going after 5 months (one is dead probably due to my fault), but were not cheap. (May be they are a little fragile? Not sure.)

So, what is the deal with the Hyundai? Will they last half as long as OEM? Will they somehow damage the vehicle?

I may be interested, but I need convincing (I'm also interested in finding new injectors for the 4m40, can you help with that Steven?).

Sorry, I did not see your reply Mardy What brand are you selling and what's the $.

Thanks for your input everyone,

Darren

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

I need my ride to start when it's really cold and I have no where to plug it in.

I need glow plugs I can depend on for as long as possible. If the OEMs are $360 +, but will last five + years, then they would seem to be an OK deal to me.

The van came with new cheap after markets and lasted less than 4 months so I don't know the cost. I knew the German ones are still going after 5 months (one is dead probably due to my fault), but were not cheap. (May be they are a little fragile? Not sure.)

So, what is the deal with the Hyundai? Will they last half as long as OEM? Will they somehow damage the vehicle?

I may be interested, but I need convincing (I'm also interested in finding new injectors for the 4m40, can you help with that Steven?).

Sorry, I did not see your reply Mardy What brand are you selling and what's the $.

Thanks for your input everyone,

Darren

Hi,
I am pretty sure Hyundai OEM glow plugs go last as original Mitsubishi OEM does if your glow plug system work properly.
I first installed Hyundai OEM at 2008, and still very strong.
No damage to your engine, for sure.
If you want a Mitsubishi OEM at $500 including margin and handling charge, I definitely can them for you ,but not worth to get as high price part is a JDM car' policy.

Also we supply 4 OEM injectors with 12 heatshields ( 3 different types ) for your 4M40 engine.

Steven

[mararmeisto]

...If you want a Mitsubishi OEM at $500 including margin and handling charge, I definitely can them for you...

Not sure where skdelica is getting their Mitsubishi plugs from, but it NEVER cost that much for plugs for the 4-cylinder 4D56T I had in my Delica. More like 40$/plug, not 80$/plug.

The short answer to your "what's it all about with these glow plugs, anyway" question is this: voltage and resistance. If voltage is not correct, the resistance will not be correct, and those two together make the system work. The glow plug ECU senses current through the system and adjust the timing of the circuit based on that. If it's off, the timing is off, and your system doesn't work properly.

If you've already changed the glow plugs once and are now needing another set, check the solenoid, check the wire to the bus bar, check the bus bar, and then check the ECU. By check the ECU I mean send it to someone to change the capacitors because that's probably what's gone wrong with them (they leaked and no longer hold a charge properly).

[djelica]

Thanks for your comments mararmeisto, but I don't think there is anything wrong with my system.

I have over 20k on it in about 9 months of ownership. The first set died in the winter and they were cheap crap.

The ones I have now are German and seem better, but I think I killed one by over tightening the busbar connector. Every thing is working well but a bit of white smoke on start up. When I checked the plugs recently I found the dead one and discovered the top portion was stripped and it doesn't work.

I would like to get the best ones I can, and keep the three German ones for back ups.

So again, what are the best. The original OEMs I am sure and then the CY55s (if you can find them). The Blueprints I have not heard good things about, and I don't know enough about the Hyundias to say anything (are they really OK, I don't know).

What do you use/recommend.

Thanks,

Darren

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

mararmeisto wrote;

Not sure where skdelica is getting their Mitsubishi plugs from, but it NEVER cost that much for plugs for the 4-cylinder 4D56T I had in my Delica. More like 40$/plug, not 80$/plug.

We have an account at Mitsubishi dealer in Osaka, they quoted us 7,500yen( tax extra ) for one.
It cost appro. $90 in current exchange rate. ( 1 CAD$ = 82 yen ).

Steven

[jessef]

Remove the bus bar.

Use heavy gauge wire spliced out 4-ways to each glowplug from the main voltage wire that originally went to #1 plug on the busbar.

This will eliminate the bus bar and it's connections which is a poor design for our winters.

[djelica]

Thanks Jesse,

I was doing just that when I decided to check the plugs and found the dead one.

I put together a new "harness" and tried it out. I didn't like all the wires with the kinda loose connection with each plug. I run a lot of fire service roads and the wash board vibrations can be terrible. I was afraid of shaking the tiny nuts off the plug.

One thing I like about the busbar is that it acts like one long lock washer (as it cannot rotate tightening the nuts to squash the bar acts as a lock and things stay tight).

I am thinking of cutting the busbar in two (making two smaller busbars with the ends trimmed and cleaned up as much as possible). I noticed the bar has two holes in it already (between 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4) and I was thinking why not take advantage of these holes and just make two connectors to hook them up. The four wires with ends on each was getting kinda messy and like I said I didn't like that it looked like it would all shake loose in no time.

Guess I could use lock washers. Any comments on this idea.

Thanks,

Darren