Rough Start Black Smoke with Cool Temps in Calgary

[Canadaeh]

Our L400 went from a Beauty to a Beast Overnight. (kinda)
Little bit of light colored smoke on start up but otherwise starts perfectly last 9 months even during last winter.
Then... overnight low of +10 degrees Celsius the other night and next morning Black Smoke and had to turn it over for 30 seconds before shaking and chugging to a start.

Checked glow plugs, seem good, removed bus bar and split wire 4 ways to each plug. Had about 12v on ignition.
Cycled plugs 4 times before ignition next day. Still huge cloud of black smoke then disappears after running for 30 - 45 seconds. Runs like a top the rest of the day. Starts no problem lots of power no smoke.

Cycled plugs 4 times before ignition next day. Still huge cloud of black smoke then disappears after running for 30 - 45 seconds. Three days straight.

So today I plug it in like in the winter time. Starts no problem after cycling plugs 4 times before ignition.

Would like to take it Mardy, but I live in Calgary. He believes it is the Injection Pump Front Shaft Seal.

Has anyone in Calgary had this issue worked on by local shop?

Any other take on what would result in this behavior?

Thanks,
Mike

[jessef]

Would like to take it Mardy, but I live in Calgary. He believes it is the Injection Pump Front Shaft Seal.

X2 Main seal on IP. Exactly the specific symptoms you are describing.

[Canadaeh]

Any ideas on roughly how long it takes to replace the seal and rebuild?

[jessef]

The injection pump doesn't need to be rebuilt.

Just the main shaft seal needs to be replaced.

A few hours at least to remove the IP.

Batteries out, Intercooler off, oil pump out, IP lines/connections disconnected, IP out from the rear. re&re main seal. and reverse install.

It's not that it's difficult per say, it's time consuming and you can't make any mistakes.

[parv0]

We have the exact same issue with our '95 L400 which we just purchased, it started the morning after it arrived home from Vancouver to the Yukon.

OK, so who's got a part number so we can order?, and while we're in there, should we be changing anything else out?

Last question is are there any cures or possible cures like running vegetable oil as a lubricant for a few tanks that will soften things up, or are these seals generally cracked beyond all hope?

cheers,

Greg

[lopar]

Just ordered main seal 3 days ago, guess I should have asked about a group buy....... sorry

Here's the link, seams to be a decent deal

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=4m40 ... m270.l1313

ebay.co.uk seems to be great source for parts, take a looky. I "usually" ask about group buy before I order to reduce shipping.

Hope this helps someone!

Cheers

[MardyDelica]

hi, guy, its not easy to change this.
parts is not expensive but when you make a mistake putting it back & the timing is off.
then you dont want to know what the next move.
pls dont do it if you are not familiar with this.
its not a good feeling
cheers;
Mardy

[Pacific JDM Parts]

There is no need to order the seal from overseas as its available here.
Depending on your mechanical skill's the front pump seal is a straight froward job.I would not recommend anyone to do the repair if you are not sure.
If you remove the vacuum pump and paint mark the front cover and the fuel pump gear you can ensure the fuel pump goes back it the same place.
There is a write up on the U.K forum on how to do it.
Just make sure that when to fuel pumps out you clean out the coolant lines as they can get blocked and the cold start advance unit will not work.
The only specialist tool required are a small puller to remove the gear from the fuel pump and a torque wrench to tighten the gear back on.
If anyone wants any help on the repair please feel free to contact me.
Thanks

[Canadaeh]

Found this file.

Other than the poor macro shots it looks like the most thorough explanation around.

http://tinyurl.com/337vjep

Any comments from experienced folks after viewing file.

[MardyDelica]

hi, mike,
its easy to see in the pictures but if the mechanic is not used to it. then it will be hard. one mistake you have to do it again & again. you loose one tooth then your timing is off.
its not just easy.
this is just my though.
cheers;
Mardy

[lopar]

KK, by no means do I see this as a daunting task, however i may have an above average background. My problem is time, looking through the step by step link, all looks straight forward, but very time comsuming for the first time. I would honestly allocate an 8-14hr day depending on ifs and oops doing it myself.
The pros, that have done this before, I would expect 2.5-4 hours.
$200-300 labour sound about right then? I do have the parts showing up soon, and I enjoy doing this type of thing, but maybe I should stick to my wires and save a day that I should be spending with the kids.

its easy to see in the pictures but if the mechanic is not used to it. then it will be hard. one mistake you have to do it again & again. you loose one tooth then your timing is off.

Head Mardy's words.... if you setup TDC and mark everything, slide it all apart carefully and re-install without damaging the seal and o-ring, yes most backyard mechanics could do this. Setting up timing from scratch, even understanding TDC messes people up if they have not dealt with it before. My advice, if you want to do this yourself, aim to have it marked and removed Friday night, allow for Saturday morning to re-install and leave the other 1.5 days to figure out and deal with what went wrong.

[Canadaeh]

Thanks for the comments.

I just like to know and weigh all the options before taking action.

Mike

[Canadaeh]

Well I dove in...

Everything went well in terms of procedure. Awkward and a healthy dose of patience is required.

One problem though, can't get the van to start. Yeah I know some of you may be shaking your heads but, life is full of learning and I definitely have learned a lot about my van this week.

First the background:
1) I took a million photos and video to document each step. Used them to backtrack once I reached the reversal point.
2) I marked every joint and union of all parts removed on both sides for alignment purposes. Especially careful with the parts around the Injection Pump.
3) Managed to damage and replace vacuum pump.
4) Found TDC (top dead center)
5) Marked the teeth of the IP on the opening where the vacuum pump was located.
6) Slid back IP a couple of mm without disengaging the teeth to identify and mark notched tooth. Noted the tooth was 5 positions counterclockwise from "T" marking on flange. This is curious to me.
7) Replace IP seal and reversed process noting the alignment marks I made prior to dis assembly on all areas.
8) Purged air from fuel filter, Primed fuel filter by pumping the top manual primer till fuel came out overflow.
9) Double checked everything, key in ignition, cycle glow plugs once, turn to start, hold for 60 seconds, starter working like mad, no start, a tiny bit of whitish smoke.
10) Prime again, try to start, no start.
11) Repeat, no start.
12) Undo top connection to injectors, try to start 2 seconds, look for evidence of diesel from tubes, yes diesel present.
13) Connect everything up again repeat trying to start, pump accelerator. no start.

insert deep breath here ---> .

This is where I am at.

Timing issue? The timing was good before, and I put it back exactly the same, so should be the same now but...
Pump issue?
Air in system issue?

I am at your collective mercy for advice.

Mike