L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step

north54 · Post by **north54** » Wed Dec 06, 2017 3:49 pm

Genuine Mitsubishi and better quality. Peace of mind and IMHO wouldn't get anything other than genuine when it comes to timing, head gaskets, etc. I Definately wouldn't trust the 2nd option in your picture "Mitsuboshi"

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Wed Dec 06, 2017 5:28 pm

As dodgy as it sounds, Mitsuboshi are OEM manufacturers for some Mitsubishi belts (My genuine Mitsubishi alternator belts are just Mitsuboshi belts in a Mitsubishi box.)

I wouldn't be surprised if the Mitsubishi and Mitsuboshi belts are identical. But still, for the sake of $30 I'd be ordering the genuine part.

weelsey · Post by **weelsey** » Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:03 pm

Well, I went with Italian. I bought a timing belt kit by Dayco.... for the north american 2.3l. Tensioners, belts, three seals under 100CAD suited my budget'think any of the parts will fit?
Perhaps I will be reusing old equipment when I put it back together. The most immediate concern still being the leaking IP front seal.

weelsey · Post by **weelsey** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:53 pm

Each of the belts, tensioners, cam seal from the dayco kit were a fine replacent. The balance shafts and crank seals I did not use. Rock auto says there are more of these now, tho when I ordere it said one remaining.
Little tight drilling holes in the old camshaft seal to remove with rad in place but doable using short drill and bits.
Tensioners seemed every bit equal.

FalcoColumbarius wrote:
Matt&Kim wrote:curious if it's entirely necessary to replace the head bolts when I do it.

Thanks!
[color= I would think the current head bolts would have stretched over time. How much would you save if you left the old bolts in ~ as compared to the engine's overall longevity and performance integrity? (Rhetorical)

Falco.[/color]

i agree these stretch. For clarity can I have my understanding confirmed or refuted that these are not a tourque to yeild head bolt? Tks

Ciaran15 · Post by **Ciaran15** » Thu Mar 01, 2018 12:19 pm

great stuff this is a top class write up...great pictures and very informative... it must have taken you ages to do. I just had a massive coolant leak today found out it has come from the core plugs on the block they were rusted through. So from your pics of the exhaust manifold removal i see i can get at them by just taking that off and replacing them...thanks for your time and effort. top job

weelsey · Post by **weelsey** » Tue Mar 13, 2018 3:58 pm

[quote="Tojo"][/quote]
Question for you (et al). How had you handled the job of replacing injectors in the new head? Was this something you farmed out? sorry if I missed it in the thread.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Tue Mar 13, 2018 11:29 pm

weelsey wrote:I agree these stretch. For clarity can I have my understanding confirmed or refuted that these are not a torque to yield head bolt? Tks

Correct, 4D56 head bolts are not torque to yield. They can be re-used if they're still in as-new condition. Any pitting, corrosion, or galling on the threads or heads and all bets are off.

weelsey wrote:How had you handled the job of replacing injectors in the new head? Was this something you farmed out? sorry if I missed it in the thread.

Fit new body and nozzle washers/gaskets, tighten to 54Nm using a long socket. Or have I misunderstood the question?

weelsey · Post by **weelsey** » Fri Apr 20, 2018 9:33 am

weelsey wrote:Or have I misunderstood the question?

Thanks, that was it in part. I was hoping to glean what I may from Tojo's experience. I encountered things like considerable carbon and stubborn seat washers, cleaning and working carefully to keep debris out of the head. I was trying to learn as much as I could about the engine by inspection of the injectors.

jimjames · Post by **jimjames** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 6:29 pm

I have a L300 with an 4d56 and am wondering if the head can be removed with both manifolds attached. Could I be so fortunate. Any thoughts appreciated...thank you.
Jim

jimjames · Post by **jimjames** » Wed Feb 12, 2020 10:36 am

actually yes you can get it off with the manifolds in place luckily

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Wed Feb 12, 2020 12:59 pm

...it just takes a year and a half?

Chata.Van · Post by **Chata.Van** » Fri Jul 17, 2020 4:26 pm

Tojo wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2015 9:40 pm Thanks for the encouragement guys.

Now that the snow has melted, I'm getting back to the task at hand.
Crossing back to the passenger side of the motor, the next move was to crack loose the glow plugs.

IMG_20150309_160040.jpg

Then loosen all the unions for the fuel injection pipes, there are 8 in total. Use two wrenches and be gentle! Not a lot of room down in behind the injection pump.

IMG_20150309_160909.jpg

Remove the two electrical connectors on top of the injection pump.

IMG_20150312_104927.jpg

And remove the two connectors near the front of the head on the passenger side, for engine coolant temperature.

IMG_20150312_102110.jpg

Here are a couple more pictures of the back of the injection pump. Awkward to get in there, but it's doable with a bit of patience. Personally I get nervous around the IP. Try not to break anything!

IMG_20150312_104946.jpg
IMG_20150312_105005.jpg

Thanks for the detailed write up, tojo! Really helped a ton. I swapped my head recently and noticed a lot of diesel leaking through what seems a couple of the delivery holders on the IP. Could those have possibly cracked when i was loosening lines? I looked at seevice manual and it doesn't show any seals or gaskets that need replaced after disassembly. Curious what it might be.

Alexscav · Post by **Alexscav** » Tue Nov 15, 2022 11:28 pm

Tojo wrote: ↑Wed Jul 15, 2015 4:41 pm By the way. Use a small 1/16" drill bit to make holes in the oil seals then drive a tiny screw into the hole and use needlenose pliers (bentnose preferred) to remove the seal. Just don't drill into the shaft or aluminum housing!

IMG_20150715_135913.jpg

Use the same method to remove the crank oil seal.

IMG_20150715_141420.jpg

Pull out the oil pump drive gear sleeve. Again because of the worn in groove that lets oil past as well as the teeth can get worn out. In this case the gear teeth look fine, but whatever, I replace anyways.

IMG_20150715_141543.jpg

New oil pump drive gear sleeve.

IMG_20150715_141656.jpg

An ABS fitting works really well for press fitting that crank oil seal. 2" to 2.25" outer diameter sleeve is what you're looking for.

IMG_20150715_142417.jpg

Looking freshened up.

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Hello ! First thanks for this amazing thread

Do you still have the numbers of all the parts you've used for this thread? Great day mate

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